rossman

How about using a -6 fuel rail extrusion like this from Ross Machine. Thread fittings into the rail for each runner along it's length then thread one end for TPS and the other for the brake booster. I have a spare length of the stuff for sale if you decide to go this route.

If my half shafts end up binding (haven't tested yet), I'd buy a set assuming the cost is reasonable.

I believe wheelman has found a solution. Look at post #40 of this thread. He found that early Pathfinder V6 axles are exactly the same as Z31T axles except shorter. In fact, they are so short that he had to ADD a spacer on one side.

In what way is a BW T5 "better" than a standard Datsun 5 speed for this guy's needs?

Look under the car, do you see any exposed linkage? The "linkage" is inside the gearbox housing, so yes you have to remove the gearbox and and housing to check it. It certainly doesn't hurt to check the fluid but I think that rsicard has the best answer in your case...or just drive it without 5th gear. Another options is to try your luck on a used one.

Because I'm looking for something that doesn't rely on hydraulics to lock the rear brakes.

Just an update. I talked to Dave yesterday. It looks like the parking brake kit isn't going to be ready for quite some time. He designed a kit but it turned out to be too expensive @ over $1000/set. He recommended that I go ahead an install a line lock...that's not what I wanted to hear .

^^Darn good advice!

Well, I was looking for something cheap but you're probably right. The spherical washers I've seen are not precision ground. That bearing you linked is made for high axial rotation. He really wants a spherical bearing (monoball) made from chrome plated and precision ground hardened steel. In my industry we tend to use 440C. Of course it would be much easier/cheaper to just purchase a set of adjustable coil overs than designing and building your own from scratch.

Race car suppliers carry them. How about something like this? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ACCURATE-MFD-PRODUCTS-Spherical-Washer-1JYH7?Pid=search

Maybe he has a maxima pan?

^^what he said

Unless you allow the parts to rotate relative to each other, as a monoball joint would, you're going to put a bunch of stress on the shock tower which could lead to failure.

Sorry, I don't want to lead anybody astray so I modified my statement above to be more specific.

Do not use a sandwich adapter. That kind of setup will blow the turbo seals. All the turbos I've seen are designed for low oil pressure. You want to feed it off the oil pressure sensor port with a restrictor before the turbo (ball bearing type, dunno about floating type), The return is literally just a drain back to the pan.

I don't get this part. What doesn't fit? The bolt patterns are all the same. I bolted a turbo pan up to my N42 block just fine. If you don't want to weld/braze, you can purchase an AN bulkhead fitting, nut and washers. Just drill the right size hole in the side of the pan and install the fitting. They ain't cheap though...

You might get more responses in the electrical or model specific section. My bet is that you have a poor ground.

Nice. What did you use to cut the chamfers?

Well, since the head was off the block... The two over #5 & 6 were drilled by Rebello per my request. They drilled them a little lower than I wanted, requiring the manifold to be carved out for #5 to fit...no big deal.

Yes, the pocket extends across both exhaust ports.

I forgot to mention that I'm also running their pump speed controller so the pump will be running 1/2 speed at idle and low load situations. Hopefully this will also help reduce noise associated with the pump.

If you look at Aeromotive's A1000 installation instructions you will find that they recommend -10 fuel line from the tank to pump to fuel rail to pressure regulator then -6 fuel line from the bypass back to the tank. That setup is reflected in the A1000 regulator: -10 input and -6 bypass. I'm going to run -10 all the way to the regulator (post fuel rail) and plug the remaining -10 input hole. For the return I'm using 1/2" tube so have a -6 to 1/2" tube adapter.

It clears both intake and exhaust manifolds so I guess I'm satisfied. I forgot to mention that the top of that hole is at the very top of the internal ceiling of the water jacket. You go any higher and you will cut into the ceiling wall. I also plugged the internal bypass hole and drilled out almost every coolant hole in the block and head that was present in the N42 MLS gasket. There was one hole in the head (P90A) that wasn't present in the gasket or head. I didn't mess with the gasket for fear of tearing it up. I figured that the hole above #4 is close enough to 3 to count for both . I think you would have to scarf out the manifolds to get a larger fitting in there. At least a fitting like the one I have that is removable with the manifolds attached. There is only .06" between the tips of the fitting nut and the intake manifold. You could move the hole a little aft to gain more clearance to the exhaust.

Well I guess I learned something new today . Still, 1G on the street seems a little extreme eh? I'll shut up now.

Yeah, me too...for a race car. He didn't state his purpose for the car. I haven't heard of people cracking uprights on street cars.