rossman

Thanks! I have the fuel pump mounted to my MMS rear LCA brace. I'll be sure to take some pictures one I get the car back on stands.

Get copy of the FSM and start comparing the wiring diagram to the wiring on the car. You might be surprised what you find. I know I was when I found BOTH fusible links missing on my 240.

The stock brakes do not go thru a proportioning valve. Never install a proportioning valve on the front brakes.

Sux man...but on the bright side, it's not a difficult job. Do the following When you go to reinstall everything. 1) Get #1 @ TDC, 2) Install the pump/dizzy drive in the correct orientation 3) Clamp the drive in place from the dizzy side with a pair of vice grips 4) Re-install your oil pump (I like to use a thin coat of Hylomar on the gasket and flanges) 5) Remove the vice grips 6) Re-install dizzy 7) Have a beer cuz you are done! If you have to remove the oil pump again, remove the dizzy and clamp the drive in place first so you don't have to worry about it falling out. Cheers, Ross

Only because his instructions said to leave it. I didn't put too much thought into it. Mine is still good and I don't remember seeing many people complaining about them going bad. I'm curious how yours failed. The Wilwood valve that I purchased from AZC has NPT threaded holes in it. I purchased AN to NPT adapters and flared the stock tubing.

Dave @ AZC recommends leaving the stock proportioning valve so you end up with both the stock and Wilwood valves. Not saying you have too just FYI. Since I have an AN flaring tool I flared the 3/16 tubing and used AN to NPT adapters to the valve.

Here

I think its because a lot of us are engineers and as such we obsess over details. In my situation your argument doesn't hold up. I've already pulled mine off several times fitting up my fuel rail and head coolant piping. Its nice to just grab the connector with one hand and pull it off.

Here are pictures of the connectors in question: From left to right: 80's Volvo, 80's BMW, "RC" (TRE Performance), Stock S30, Stock style replacement (F0rrest) The stock S30 connector is broken from removal and the boot is hardened from heat and age. Both the Volvo and BMW connectors are in good shape and the boots are soft and pliable. I'm using the "RC" connectors with the BMW boots as I like the look of them better than the Volvo.

Awesome! Can't wait to see it

If you read Tony's post carefully he says the the 260-280 ammeter is wired differently than the 240 ammeter. The later ammeters have a shunt that keeps the high current out of the passenger compartment. '76 and later Zcars all had voltmeters.

Because the compressor and charge pipe would make this area is very tight. I want to get a decent size filter going to the turbo inlet while keeping my air conditioner. No air con makes for unpleasant drives during the summer in south Texas. I'm not worried about drag from the fan it should be minimal, besides, you get drag on the alternator pulley while a high current electric fan is running. Of course, this could all change after I drive the car a bit. I reserve the right to change my mind later .

It would help if you would tell us something about your car. Is it stock, a V8 swap, or a turbo conversion? Does it have the stock EFI, Megasquirt, or what? This IS HybridZ after all! Have you bothered to search for answers to your problem? Have you downloaded and read the EFI bible? Have you inspected and cleaned ALL of your EFI connectors? Have you checked fuel pressure? Have you performed a compression check?

Those fittings are inverted flare to AN. You need inverted flare to flex hose to banjo fittings. Take a look at what www.anplumbing.com has to offer: banjo and pre-made hose

Some significant progress was made over the Labor Day holiday weekend. The pictures pretty much speak for themselves. Yes, the intercooler piping clears the hood . I checked and there is at least .5 inches of clearance. This arrangement relieves congestion around the air filter, compressor and stock cooling fan...all of which I want to keep. The downside is that it's slightly more pipe volume than the typical around the front arrangement. The missing pieces are on order and should arrive before the weekend. The last major piece I need to order is the alternator. The plan is to adapt a CS144 GM alternator.

The rest of the car looks nice too.

Yes, the sensor mount will interfere with the back of the stock fan.

I drilled out and tapped the rear most heater hose mounting hole on the block. You got to be careful not to drill thru into the water jacket behind it.

Glad to hear you got it running. Are you still using the large injectors? It's never going to run properly with those injectors connected to stock FI.

Have you thought about getting a copy of How to Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine?

So you are saying that you are not getting +12v at the injectors and the harness path from the ECU to injector connector is good?

I've been making slow but steady progress on the car. All of the steps above (post 41) are complete up to #16 and then some. All of the suspension is back on the car. The hard fuel lines are complete (see link above). The differential is back on. Brake proportioning valve and line lock is installed. Still need to fab a bracket. Brakes lines are all hooked up and bled. I purchased one of Austin Hoke's Z32 shifter bracket. Its high quality and quite a bit more compact than the McKinney bracket. The 240z tunnel is tight and my fuel lines are huge. I need every bit of clearance I can get! I test fit the Z31 axles. The drivers side axle is too long...big surprise . Luckily JMortensen's is producing custom CV axles for this exact issue. At the same time though I've been considered just grinding off the end of the axle at the wheel end. I would remove just enough to prevent binding plus a little clearance for bushing compression. It appears to me that the axle is compressed so much that there will always be full spline engagement with the cage. This extra length of splined shaft is what I'm proposing to remove. Someone please stop me if this is a bad idea. My next goal is to get the engine back into the car this next weekend...labor day weekend. Its gonna take a lot of beer to bribe my buddy into helping me.

Have you tried Nissan?

Cole, All of this has been discussed many times over on this forum. Do a little searching and you will be better informed than you would be based on what any of us can or are willing put in this one thread. I believe we have a consensus to go with N42 L28 block. For the head, I'd also have to research it. I'm no expert, that's why I didn't address which head to use. Are you sure that N42 head has exhaust liners? I'm using a Wolf EMS. Its a fully programmable, stand alone EMS.

+1 I'd go with the N42 block bored out .040 or larger. If the N42 head has injector cut-outs (some don't as TonyD has pointed out in another thread), then you have to deal with that as the stock SU manifold will not seal these up. Makes me chuckle...