rossman

Still looking...

Be aware that the left and right are slightly different lengths. Some rebuilders get the parts mixed up.

Actually I'll take two at that price. Ship to 77586.

Need one stock l6 engine mount shipped to 77586. The stud/threads and metal parts need to be in good shape. The condition of the rubber doesn't matter since I will be replacing it with urethane. Let me know your price...I'm not looking to pay much.

Nice find! I'm always happy to see an S30 saved from the scrap yard. Sweatleaf meant in-tank pump. All S30s came with an external fuel pump from the factory. The fuel level sending unit is on the FWD passenger side of the stock tank. You can access it from underneath the car.

Awesome work Derek! Definitely interested!

Rebello Racing

Pumps get noisy when the lines get partially clogged and they have to pump against a lot of back pressure. Check your fuel filter. Check fuel pressure. Blow out the fuel lines with compressed air.

My advise to you is to search this site and read, read and read some more BEFORE you spend a dime upgrading any engine or fuel system components. It will save you time and money. Set a power goal then build to that goal. I believe that most people on this board would agree that turbocharging is the best bang for the buck for the L6.

You're going to get shut down asking that question on this board. You are one click of the search button away from the answer. You need to determine your power goal...200, 300, 400 hp? 300 hp is within reach with 1k to spend if you do the work yourself. Welcome to the board and nice car BTW

They're located in Greensberg, PA http://www.gas-tank.com/. Joe is a nice and friendly guy. I went to them because they've done quite few S30 tanks.

I've decided to try out a slightly modified version of katman's solution (see link in post #11 above). Instead of a standard bolt as katman did, I'm going to try a shoulder bolt that is a little longer than the height of the stock mount. The shoulder will clamp the base of the mount to the lower support bracket while the head of the shoulder bolt will catch the top metal plate when it stretches the mount a set distance. Washers can be stacked up below the head of the shoulder bolt to adjust the distance the mount can stretch. I found a 5/8" shoulder bolt on McMaster Carr that should work nicely. I may even stack spring washers under the bolt head to soften the impact on hard launches. I just need to figure out the right spring force. The ~.625 ID Bellville washers that McMaster sells range from 530 - 1810 lbs to flat.

I would say that they are always functional and sometimes critical to the function of the injector. I've convinced myself that in this case the tip is just a shroud making the damage minor.

Cool, thank you!

Wow, I can't believe it's been since July that I posted last! Anyway, I have made some progress on the car since then. Moyer Tank Renu installed a sump in my stock tank and re-coat it. It turned out pretty nice. The fittings are 3/4", should have been 1/2"...it's my fault, and a long story . I'll get some 3/4' to 5/8" 90 degree fittings to make the transition to the 316 stainless pipe that I purchased locally. I plan to hard pipe from the tank to the engine with flex hose making the connections to the pump and fuel rail. I will have to pull the engine back out to get the piping up in the transmission tunnel. The Arizona Zcar brake brackets finally arrived! These have mounting provision for a separate parking brake. I don't really think Dave was ready to sell them but my weekly pleads for them drove him nuts so he finally relented and sold me a pair before the entire package was ready. Thanks Dave! Performance Powder Coating powder coated a bunch of suspension parts for me. Their rate was reasonable and the parts turned out real nice. I will be giving them more parts in the coming weeks (months? ). Notice there is no welding by me in my build? Wonder why? I don't know how to weld. I borrowed a friends MIG and purchased an auto darkening hood. Time to start learnin' Hopefully I don't screw up too much stuff!

Reviving an old thread again. I would be grateful if ZNeder would post up some pictures of his fabrication work and impressions of this modification.

That thread is located here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/54341-captive-engine-mounts. I am considering this as an alternative to the McKinney mounts. The hole locations in Jeep CJ mount are 1.25" wider than those on the stock zcar bracket. The two options I see are to slot each hole on the mount an additional .625" inwards or modify the zcar bracket. Just eyeballing the Jeep mount pictures, it doesn't appear to have enough metal to slot that much. NZeder chose to modify the stock bracket but he never posted the results.

My experience with rust preventative paints has been less than stellar. The PO coated the entire inside of my 240z with Eastwood rust encapsulator. It encapsulates the rust as the name implies. The problem is that the rust never stopped eating away at the metal. Luckily for me I got to it before it rusted thru the floor pan. I would highly recommend that you remove all the rust that you can and threat the remaining surface with Metal Ready or Ospho to neutralize the rust prior to top coating with paint. Read this:http://www.drjing.com/Mini/BLOG/SideBySide.htm. The rust encapsulator on my 240 looked exactly like the photo labled 10/3/05.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86839-urethane-engine-mounts-for-l-series/page__p__824007__hl__%2Bmotor+%2Bmount__fromsearch__1#entry824007

I agree. That seems like a much better idea. Thanks for the help Tony.

Let me rephrase so I know I understand what you are proposing. Take the McKinney mount and drill two independent holes thru the machined aluminum plate, urethane disk and stock engine support. Then, install bolts in each hole with spring washers or belleville washers under the nuts to allow for some play. I'll have to look closer but I don't think there is enough room for the bolts/nuts on the engine support side. Yeah, in my design all the bushings are in compression. It's definitely not ideal.

The engine mount that McKinney Motorsports designed got me thinking about how to design a captured engine mount with the added stiffness given by semi-hard urethane rubber. I here is my first cut at a design. Should be pretty cheap and easy to produce assuming the bushings can be found or made for a reasonable price. The drawing is not to scale and I have not taken any measurements yet. I'm not sure how much room there is on top and bottom for the urethane bushings. Comments welcome.

OEM 240z seats are vinyl. If you have leather seats then somebody recovered them.

1) yes 2) The thick section goes towards the top. It is just wedged up in spring seat. 3) Not sure on this one. I've gone full urethane before, no modification here and had no problem. For my next install I plan to use a stock bushing on the back side. 4) That's correct.

I have a used 280z rear strut isolator. $15 shipped. Paypal rossharold@gmail.com