rossman

I have an new Aeromotive FPR like this one that I will let go for $110 + shippping. New, never used, just opened the box.

Assuming you are using Windows...You should be able to go into Windows settings and increase the font size. I don't know exactly how to do it though.

Can a mod fix the title? I'm assuming is supposed to be "fastest" not "fasted." Hopefully I'll be posting my 1/4 mile times this summer.

Great job! Looks very nice.

I'd take the wastegate apart and inspect it. You might have a hole in the diaphragm or something.

Phil - When you said you unhooked the wastegate and plugged it, did you plug the top of the wastegate or just the line coming to it? You want the port on top of the wastegate vented to atmosphere.

Hmmm, I thought I had some in my build page. I'm out of town right now Dayton, OH. I'll try to get some pictures when I get back next week.

I think so, but it's not running yet so I don't know for sure. The shop made a custom aluminum bronze bushing for it. It feels like a nice tight fit. I can wobble the valve ever so slightly in the bushing. As I understand it, there is a sweet spot for the valve stem to guide bushing clearance. Too much and it will leak, too little and it will bind. I believe the right numbers are .003 - .006 clearance.

I don't get it.

Hey Derek, How are the bonded patches holding up? Just curious. Cheers, Ross

I just got finished uncovering the PO's rust "repair" and "insulation." Apparently this guy was a complete idiot. He cut out some rust just over frame rail then filled it with polyurethane foam...you know...Great Stuff! He even went so far as to shape it like the floor pan. To stop the rust on the floor pans he covered everything with Rust Incapsulator. As the name suggests, it incapsulated the rust while still allowing it to eat away at the metal. I remember when I purchased the car he was so proud of himself for removing all the sound deadener and replacing it with insulation. Well, I found out today that he used radiant barrier insulation. The thick plastic stuff. Here are a couple of pics.

Insurance companies will "fix" them and owners resell them all the time. You got to be careful buying used cars down here. For me flooding isn't a real driver for the ECU location because I would never drive my Z or any other car thru flood water. That said I may stick with the glove box simply because it's easier to access and view the LED's on my J&S.

Locating it under the seat down here in southeast Texas where it floods in a matter of minutes is probably not the greatest idea. Here is what it looked like in front of my house earlier this year. I don't drive mine even if it looks like it might rain but you never know. I considered the drivers side kick panel but, like others have said I was afraid it get in the way and I'm not crazy about the idea of kicking $1500 worth of electronics .

Edit: Nevermind, glovebox was already mentioned. Moving mine under the seat.

Oh, and I don't think neotech's name is Jack. That is just his signature, which is a quote from the Saturday Night Live writer Jack Handy. Also, on the Photobucket website, when you view a picture, down on the left side bar there is a box called "Share this Image". Copy the text in the "IMG code" box and paste it into the "Reply to Thread" text editor box on this website. Your pictures will show up inline with your post. Like the following picture of my Modern Motorsports adapters. You can also "preview Post" before submitting it to check to see if it looks right. Hope this helps.

I don't know anybody who has used it, but that doesn't mean much. I'm sure there are others on this board who have. I went the Z31 LSD differential/half shaft route. I purchased adapters for the half shafts from Modern Motorsports. They appear to be very heavy duty and high quality.

I got these Modern Motorsports Z31 half shafts to S30 axle adapers in the mail yesterday. These things are VERY heavy duty. There is no doubt that something else will break before these do. I also purchased new bearings from Motorsport Auto so I can swap out my stock 240 axles for 280 axles.

I think most people get after market control arms because they are more adjustable than stock (toe and camber). If you are just worried about strength then just stick with the stock units. Techno Toy Tuning sells a set for a seemingly reasonable price. Modern Motorsports also has a set of rear lower control arms. I wouldn't hesitate to get the Modern Motorsports short nose differential kit if I were in the market.

Did it run before the harness burned up? What caused it to burn up? I agree with 19752802+2, you need to verify everything per the FSM. Did you consider getting a known working harness off another Z? I have one in case you are interested.

You know for sure your injectors are malfunctioning because your fuel pump works?? I don't think soaking them in fuel will clean them. The injectors won't spray unless the engine is running. How did you narrow it down to your fuel system? You might want to describe the symptoms you are experiencing so we can help you diagnose the problem.

The LSD differential, RonTyler bracket and urethane bushings are installed. I also fit-up and modified a Modern Motorsports cross brace. I had to notch it quite a bit to get good clearance...maybe a little overboard but I'm unsure how much the parts move/flex relative to each other. I may also weld on an additional angle to stiffen the brace in the out of plane direction. Fit-up the MM cross brace. The corners of the fins hit the brace. Also note the big-azz bracket that some hack shop installed on the car. I'm guessing the car previously had a tow hitch installed. Those bolts holding the bracket go thru thin sheet metal with no other bracing or pad-up. I'm surprised it just bent instead of ripping out of the car. The washers on the other sides are bowed up like it was trying to pull the bolts thru. Very unsafe. The notched brace clears at least 1/4 inch all around. The bracket also provides a nice flat surface to mount my fuel pump and filter . The MM brace is compact enough to clear the Suspension Techniques rear sway bar mounts.

This is a very informative thread, especially since my setup is very similar to Phil's: GT35R, 3.0L, high lift cam, ported head, etc. The main difference is that mine has flat top pistons, giving a higher static CR @ 8.5:1. It will be interesting to see how mine performs relative to Phil's...if I ever get mine running . Tony - Thanks for sharing your knowledge on the subject. People like you make this site a valuable resource. Cheers, Ross

^^Pics?

I have a '72 240Z with stock front hubs. I planning to upgrade to vented S12/W front brakes. Modern Motorsports offers adapters for both 240z and 280z hubs. I was wondering if there are any significant benefits to swapping 280z hubs onto a 240z. I've read that they are stronger and heavier. I'm thinking the downside is higher rotating mass.

I think Tony D nailed it in his first post: Lower thermostat housing -> turbo -> water pump intake (lower radiator hose). This is what I plan to do. I believe there was also some discussion on this subject in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125186