rossman

WOW! Very nice.

I hope you prove me wrong. Regardless, you have a f'n fast bitchin' car. I wish I had the time to work on mine like you do. You just do it. I just think about doing it.

Lookin' good Phil! After researching MONZTER's CFD work, I convinced my self that the Lonewolf intakes don't do much for performance. I could be wrong but that is why I ditched mine...plus I seized the opportunity to purchase one of the Speed Shop Thagard intakes. It would be interesting to see Dyno numbers now before you get the ported head on.

>Heading to the hospital so my son can be induced... I'm really excited to be a dad. LOL Great timing! So did you tell the doctor "You can't induce 'till I finish the Z?"

Congratulations! I like the exhaust note. What muffler are you using? Good luck with the leaks. I can't wait to see the video of it tuned.

Cool. I actually live off NASA Road One near Kirby. It's not Seabrook proper but it's my mailing address. Cheers, Ross

I finally got mine out after breaking off one end of the pin with the puller. I ended up taking the strut housing and LCA off the car and putting it on a bench. I soaked it in PB Blaster overnight then pulled it out from the opposite side (FWD side). The damn thing fought me the whole way out. I'd get about 1/4 of a turn with no movement then suddenly POP and it would move. It did this for the first 3 inches or so. It was a real workout. I'm going to reinstall with anti-seize just in case I ever have to do this again.

I'm looking for a set (both sides) of S30 urethane outer lower control arm bushings and matching sleeves like the small ones in this kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC06C/23-4137. I already have the inner adjustable kind so I only need the outers.

I've had good luck with Permatex Hylomar. It's stupid expensive but it works well. I used to be cheaper before they started calling it "racing formula":icon45:

If you were working for me, I'd say go redesign the joint so that most of the load is taken in shear. That bolt is definitely in single shear and bending and, depending on the direction the load, is in tension too. Unless you get an even load on both of the rod ends, you are going to have a moment about the bolt taken by the relatively small angle bracket legs. A much better design would use u-sections and pass the bolt thru both walls. With those spacers you will still see quite a bit of bending in the bolt but that's probably unavoidable, assuming you need that much angle.

Just last night I broke off the threaded portion of the drivers side spindle pin trying to pull it out with the 1" diameter puller that I bought on this board. The pin moved about 1/4" before breaking. I pulled the strut housing and lower a-arm off the car and doused the pin in PB Blaster. I'll try pulling the pin from the opposite direction (fwd) next weekend. The passenger side came out with no problem. Not sure why this one is such a problem.

Yes, I'm interested. PM sent.

This is probably a long shot but I thought I'd try . I'm looking for an internally baffled oil pan for a Nissan L6 engine.

My earlier post was wrong so I deleted it. Flow is a function of area and pressure.

I've made some progress this week. I installed a rebuilt 15/16" master cylinder in preparation for the vented front disk upgrade. I have all the parts for the stage 1 non-vented disks but I think I'm going to go straight to the vented disks. Here is a picture of the master cylinder installed..no big deal. I forgot what a pain in the a$$ this thing is to get in. Last time I changed one out was in 1990. I also laid out my basic Wolf EMS and J&S wire routing. Here are the wires coming into the engine bay. Wolf provides plenty of wiring. I need to get a pretty good size grommet for all the wiring coming thru. I think I'm going to locate the power supply on the passenger the engine bay. I originally planned to put in inside under the dash but space is very limited due to the after market a/c components in there. Is there a real good reason not to put the PS in the engine bay? Seems like it would keep the high current wiring as short as possible and minimize holes thru the firewall. Here are the ECU's in the glove box. I'm just going to velcro them in place...at least for now. I'm also working on fabbing up some bellows for my turbo manifold to allow for expansion/contraction of the long tubes. I am copying Jeffp's idea of incorporating Mercedes Benz exhaust manifold components into the header. Here are a couple of pictures of the hardware I purchased on Ebay. I'll need to have a couple of weld on stainless flanges fabricated with the same flange profile as the cast iron flanges in the pictures. The short cylindrical piece floats between the flanges and is covered and sealed by the bellows. The bellows are clamped to the flange using the funky little clamps. There are also thin shims to seal the bellows to the flange. The parts are stainless and appear to be reusable...except for one of the short pipes that I bent trying to pull it out of the manifold . I thought this was an interesting clamp design. It appears to be thin sheets of stainless spot welded to both sides of the clamp. Seems to work perfectly. I also pulled the old R180 rear end in preparation to install the z31 LSD and Roostmonkey built Ron Tyler differential bracket. Here is my initial fit-up of the Ron Tyler bracket. As you can see, it doesn't quite fit. I read in another thread that the exhaust hanger on some 240's is welded on like mine. I'm going to have to grind if off to get the bracket installed properly. It looks like every thing else will clear. I remember reading that some people had problems with the emergency brake hardware interfering. There appears to be adequate clearance in my case. Of course I won't really know until I get the mounting holes lined up. Here is a view looking up the tunnel to give you an idea how tight the Z32 gearbox fits inside the 240z. Time for bed

Like others, I used exhaust studs threaded into the last exhaust mounting hole on #6 and one of the M8 holes on the front passenger side of the head. I used chains and torqued down on it with a nut and one of the thick exhaust washers.

Are you running an intercooler? Maybe it is blocking air across the radiator.

There is no "better." It depends on what you want it to do. Take a look here: http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=130

I can't help you with your question but I'm going to do you a favor. Your signature contains incorrect grammar and spelling. It should be written like this: "You're only as fast as you can push the accelerator to the floor."

You stated that your car is stock but AFAIK 280z's did not come with an electric fan. That is where the confusion is. Do you have the stock belt driven fan and and additional electric fan or just electric? The way you described the noise, it seems like a locked clutch fan. The stock fan should turn freely when the engine is cold. If it doesn't, replace the clutch. I believe they are still available from MSA. If it is the electric fan, then there should be a thermostat that controls it. Try adjusting the thermostat if that doesn't work then replace it.

That looks just like my intake!

Interesting intake. I'd like to see a picture from the top so I can see more of the intake.

Can't see the picture yet - "image pending approval." That air box is very cool. Doesn't it bang against the fender well when the engine torques over?

My 240 when I first got her... Currently getting a minor transplant.