AkumaNoZeta

When I was a kid I was flipping through the channels and found this very interesting, live action movie that took place in a Japanese high school and I only caught the last fight seen. I don't remember whats its called, or really any details at all besides the fact that I know at least one character had crazy hair and I think they were doing energy blasts (can't remember for sure though) like in DBZ. I couldn't even tell you if it was a movie based on an anime either because that was before I knew about anime....YEARS AGO!!!! If anybody has any ideas what it could be, please chime in. I want to actually look for it. I'm trying to google it, but its not really helping. 99% of the results are "Japanese School Girls"

Is this refering to the seat belt being stuck? My 260's seatbelt has been stuck ever since I got it therefore making it unwearable

We all know the longer the lower control arms, the better the suspension behaves because the geometry doesn't change as much during travel...Well in order to have significantly longer control arms without also installing a lot more bumpsteer you want to pretty much have the inner tie rod joint at the same spot as the heim joint or bushing of the control arm (really you just want the tie rod and lower control arm to have the same length and angles so the arcs move together). So I was wondering if people have searched junkyards to look for the shortest rack (with a decent steering ratio) they can find to build around? I was gonna measure the rack on my car so I have it to compare others with at the junkyards but since I never got my car running I therefore am 1000 miles away from it again.... not to mention I can't find any around here, I hear about them from other people but when I go out to look for it I can't seem to find it

Well, I found another one I've never seen mentioned. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfZz-q8CRLE Its at 1:37, might be an unexpected source.

Doesn't seem to be my cup of tea...but I agree that it would look a lot better with the pantera hatch. Probably be more of that Euro sport kinda look

When it comes down to my car, I am completely done with school in December and my friend just got an old F100 so when I get back home I'm just gonna have my friend tow my car back to my parent's house where I'll start ripping it apart and start the many different modifications I've been planning out so adding this (if feasible) to the list wouldn't be that big of a deal. I failed to get it running so I can now start doing everything I want...granted I can find a job.

I actually agree, I've never understood why people hated on the Fiero. Every car has it's problems, take away those problems and the Fiero is a good concept. I'd like to have one, I wouldn't buy one because I love my Z more.

On the newer vehicles the windshield is an important part of the unibody and therefore held in with structural strength epoxy, right? Well, if you use that same epoxy for the windshield on the Z during a build couldn't it be a good way to strengthen and stiffen a chassis without adding any extra weight? Of course this would probably have to take a new windshield since the 35 year old windshield it has wasn't designed for that kind of stress.

I don't believe that myself. If you look at the definitive weight comparison page you'll see that someone weighed, I think it was an L28, with transmission and got 530 lbs. Then just shave off like 100 to compensate for the transmission and you get 430 lbs (should be an underestimate of the engine as a safety margin). From what I've read a EFI Ford 302 wieghs in at 411 while the all iron carburated version weighs closer to 450. And the all iron small block Chevys weigh around 550 and you lighten that up quite a bit with aluminum heads and intake. So from where I stand, a lightened V8 will give you anywhere from 2-5 times the power, or even more depending on the build, with little extra weight. And most, if not all, of the V8's weight is behind the cross-member and most of the V8 Zs I've read about had the weight more biased on the rear of the vehicle because of it.

All you have to do is look at the cars really. A Porsche 911 is a rear engine (most weight in the rear) and it's notorious for oversteering too much. Then you can look at the old American muscle cars, they're really front heavy because of the all iron V8s and they understeer. Of course its about how you tune the suspension too.

I wish I had answers. I attached a photo of how the coil is wired up so maybe one of you could tell me if that is wrong. The coil is in there loose because I took the picture right before taking it off. I'm not getting any spark out of the coil. Checking with a test light (I dont have access to a voltmeter) there appears to be power at all 3 terminals on the ballast resistor and both terminals on the coil. Is there supposed to be power at all of those?

The 77 ignition box I got from menzzer37 looks so much different then the one on my car. Does this matter? Am I supposed to get a new connector on that part of the harness to fit in the new box? Can I test if the boxes are even good or bad before I try them? Here's the photos of the differences.

The silver one is the ignition box I pulled off my car, the red or brown (I'm a little color blind) is the one I got in the mail. Did I get the wrong one or so I just have to get a new connector to put on my factory harness? We're still playing with it and I would like any help possible. Please give me any step-by-step instructions for testing the rest of the system. So far I haven't been able to get any spark out of the coil. Well, I'll get more pics later. Thank you in advance.

The first time I ever got pulled over was while doing a 95 in a 50 with my Celica and I was just 16 and thought I was gonna be in BIG trouble (I've never even seen a cop before so I didn't know at all what to expected) so I had a little nervous breakdown and ended up trying to get the cop to shoot me...he told my mom I needed to see a psychiatrist. Next time I didn't technically get pulled over, I hit the ditch at around 100 MPH because the Celica oversteered in the curve. Tire came off rim. The people in the area called the cops thinking that there might have been injuries. A guy in a Dodge truck pulled my car out the ditch before the cop showed up and he told the cop that he was behind me and that my tire blew out while driving. Needless to say the cop didn't believe it because the tire was blown "in" instead of out so I got a reckless driving for that one. The day I just got my Mustang and was driving it from the place I got it I got pulled over on the highway. It happened just after I downshifted from 5th and punched it, just to see how good the car would perform. It went up to 100 in what felt like a blink of an eye at the time (first car I've ever driven with more than 100 horsepower, now the Mustang feels slow to me). So when the cop pulled me over I thought he clocked me when I did the 100, instead he pulled me over because he couldn't see the temp tag in the tinted rear window so I didn't get anything with that. I got pulled over on a 35 mph side road driving my drunk brother home from his friend's house. My speedo on the Mustang is off, I just know I was cruising at like 1200 RPM to keep it quit in I think 4th gear so the cop pulled me over for I think it was a 44...while my speedo actually read almost 55, shows how much the speedo is off. Oh, that was no proof of insurance too because unknowingly to me I still had the expired proof in my car. None of those were Z's though. The only trouble I got in the Z was with money. It ran when I got it so I was trying to take it to school with me, from Arkansas to Pennsylvania. Well, it ran good until halfway through Missouri, the battery died so I needed a jump start at the gas station. Whenever I pushed in the clutch or had the car in neutrel it would just started reving up by itself so I had to keep it in gear to keep the revs down. Then when I saw the oil pressure gauge was reading 0 I decided to just give up on the venture and ended up having a $750 tow bill because of it. Replaced battery and altenator and still didn't start so my parents took it to a shop and they said the carburators were dead so I wasn't getting any fuel. Well then I decided to splurge on the AZC intake with a Holley 390...still didn't start. I didn't get any spark but I didn't have enough time to really further diagnose anything because I had to leave for school again. But I get to go back and check it out more this weekend. I can't wait either, I actually feel like I'm gonna get it running, good, this time. Other troubles I've had was blowing up the T5 and busting the rear sub-frame on my Mustang. I got another T5 for $25 from a friend, but I blew reverse out of that on a hill in Pittsburgh though. I also have the rear-subframe welded up and reinforced with some plate...still don't really trust it though. As long as it holds until I can start driving the Z, I'll be happy.

Why would anyone want to be different? Just kidding, I get bored seeing the same thing everywhere I go...which is why I don't classify adding a body-kit a way to be different. I never see any stock-bodied cars anymore...which is a real shame. I've always wanted a Geo Metro...of course converted to RWD with so many custom goodies and either power it with a turboed 4cyl or a turboed bike engine. It would be a great sleeper.

Also instead of bolting it under the flat edge, you could mount it on top of the front edge, inside the air dam, couldn't you? I think that would be more aerodynamic too since it will be more of a "step" instead of the edge of the aluminum kinda like ramming the air...then again probably wouldn't be the least noticeable either way.

Really? I could use 85 MPG on my road trips. But I don't fall for those ones. I just thought the ATF could be plausible because of the detergents they have in them and how clean the inside of transmissions are when you take them apart.

Well, I heard about it then I searched here and found nothing. Searched yahoo and only found forums about others supporting it. So I decided to ask here because I couldn't really come up with my own opinion.

I was told that putting a little ATF in the fuel tank will clean out injectors better then injector cleaners. What do you all think about this?

I actually had to watch that over and still didn't understand what was wrong with it until I read the info on the side.

I'm actually making a spread sheet of the different engine's F/Rs in S30s, well an average of different data collected because everybody's car is different. Just something to pass the time because I already did a spreadsheet of all the aero results to make it a lot easier to read for me than that tiny print and stuff on the actual results table.

I'm a big guy and I know one great advantage. Girls love it, they say "It's like hugging a life size teddy bear" lol. And if Cygnusx1's theory is correct, does that mean our a-holes will be in the bottom of our feet one day? The updated clip is better too http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrTIF6Kjd3o

Well, this weekend I finally get to work on my Z again because I got a little over a week off from school. I got the new ignition box and I'm ready to start working. I just want to ask if you guys can give me other things to check, and how to check them, in case it still doesn't start with the new ignition box. I don't have a DVOM or anything, just a test light, I much prefer DVOMs but I can't afford one yet. Well thanks for the help thus far and wish me luck.

I got my early 260Z for around $3000 and I feel ripped off on it. The floor boards were replaced....improperly. And the engine ran perfectly fine when I got it...but died the next day. If I could do it again I would just buy a plain old shell for a couple hundred, maybe someone's project that they had to get rid of because of financial crisis, running out of room, or a angry wife. I would do that instead because with the level of modification I'm dreaming of doing, all frame rails would be 2X2" tubing. Custom double wishbone front and back, the back having special frame rails and cage around the diff to support the design. I've seen really good Z's for around $4000 and forgotten ones for like $200. It would depend on what you want. Something to drive right now and look good, get the $4000 one. If you want something you can tear about in your garage, swap in a powerful engine, custom chassis/suspension, just get the $200. That's just my opinion though.

Have you had the car corner-balanced yet?