Leon

I was just about to suggest looking up the running costs for these things. If it will be hard to spend the money to buy one, then you do not want to know what it costs to own one. Keep the Z, and get something fun and reliable if you want to have a sporty DD. No doubt, the GTR is cool and a lot of car, but you can have something that costs magnitudes less and is just as fun (if not moreso), IMHO.

Jeebus, man! I have to say though, the image of a keyboard trying to eat my hands is pretty damn funny!

Damn... at least the water wasn't too deep.

Not a problem, but here is some more info. The S30 and S31 have the same body, or at least superficially so. The analogy is akin to that of a 240Z versus a 280Z. The rest of the world never got the 280Z, but instead had the 260Z from '74 up until '77. The VIN prefix for the updated model had S31 instead of S30, and its frame and interior updates were similar to the 260Z. I'm not sure whether it changed to S31 in '74 or '75. I'm not an expert in the field, but have managed to gather this much. Someone correct me if necessary. The front end of that car, not just the light buckets, is a "G-nose" conversion. It did not come from the factory that way.

Download the FSM at xenons30.com, take a look at the wiring diagram and take note (write it down) of what's gone and what's still there. That will give you a good idea of what the car will need. Building wiring harnesses is not difficult, just time consuming.

Holy :shock: !!!

True, I guess I don't think from the dedicated drag-strip perspective.

That's a $500-600 car, if there are no rust cancer problems.

I'm curious as to why you would choose this over, say, an OBX LSD which is the same price, if not cheaper?

I agree with the first three, but I have to say that I enjoyed torching out the old rubber! However, I was outside so the fumes didn't pose a threat. What I did was light it, and then poke at it with a cheap screwdriver to quicken the process. On topic, atlanticz has exactly what OP is asking for. Many, many common Z jobs are documented very well there.

Yep, you can tell by the pictures that most of MSA's radiators are Champion brand. I'm using a 2-row, "ebay-special" Champion that I got for $140 new and it works great. My only complaints are that the mounting flanges were slightly bent when I received it (it's soft Al, easy to fix) and that the drain plug will drip a little while after draining and refilling.

I want!

That's a sketchy ad. The S31 VIN prefix means it's a '76-78 car, definitely not a 1970. I hope he has receipts for all he says he's done...

Clean workshop! I'm excited to see this finally coming together!

I should have my new-to-me car on Monday! It's been a really hard decision process but I had to decide at some point. Stay tuned!

I'll second that.

Yes, EGR dilutes the mixture and thus you have less combusibles in the cylinder. Think about it though, if you are putting in less fuel, that means you are losing power compared to 0% EGR. You require less fuel to maintain the same AFR, but that also means you also have less fuel to burn. When thinking along these lines, it would seem as though EGR will have a negative effect on cruise performance. This is where those 2 factors I mentioned come in (less pumping and heat losses). Because of improved thermal efficiency and lower pumping requirements, the engine doesn't need as much power to maintain operation. You're making less power at part-throttle cruise, but because of EGR, you don't need as much power (fuel) to keep going, hence the mpg benefit at steady cruise. Bingo!

Nice job, thanks for documenting! I took the noxious route, but did use a round wire brush which worked great. Good luck with your project!

Brady, with all due respect, it doesn't work that way. If I inject a bunch of Nitrogen into my cylinders, it will not mean that I can use less fuel. I'll reiterate the reasons behind getting better fuel economy at cruise with EGR:

Yes, rsicard is right, Tony has the burn rates backwards. A rich mixture burns faster and a lean mixture burns slower. Therefore, the slow burn of a lean mixture allows for more heat transfer to the cylinder walls. This is one of the reasons for a cooler EGT with a lean mixture.

I'll try to briefly summarize this. Exhaust gas temperature (EGT) depends on combustion temperatures. The hotter the mixture burns inside the cylinder, the hotter it will be coming out. Theoretically, combustion temperatures are at a maximum at stoichiometric, but realistically the maximum occurs slightly rich from peak because of the dissociation of Oxygen from the combustion products (CO2, H2O). Why temperature drops when rich or lean is described by the energy released caused by the chemical reactions between the fuel and air. Too little fuel (lean) and there is less energy contained within and more heat is transferred to the cylinder walls (no fuel evaporation or boundary layer), thus the lower temperature when it burns. Too much fuel, and combustion efficiency drops thus generating less heat. I know, this is not too detailed, but it gets the point across without involving too much technical jargon. Of course, this all assumes MBT timing and stable combustion. You can also change exhaust temps by varying spark timing, arguably moreso than by just varying AFR. EGT is increased when spark timing is retarded since you are giving the gasses in the cylinder less time to cool off before the exhaust valve opens.

Check for exhaust leaks first, then get quieter mufflers if no leaks are found. I'm sure there are plenty of V8 guys here that have a more detailed solution, search the Exhaust and V8 sections.

Very well done, nice work!

And people don't believe me when I tell them that gas mileage goes up with properly functioning EGR... Actually, the reason for better fuel efficiency has nothing to do with spark timing. As far as timing goes, it's not that it can be increased, it's that it needs to be increased when using EGR. EGR increases mixture burn time, thus you need to light the mixture off sooner in order to get back to MBT (Max Brake Torque) timing. Engine efficiency increases when using EGR at cruise mainly because of these two reasons: (1) EGR reduces pumping losses by increasing intake pressure, and (2) the lower combustion temperatures lead to less heat loss through the cylinder walls (better thermal efficiency).

You're welcome!