Leon

Check forum classifieds, they pop up a lot around here. It depends on your location, I bought my 3.9 off of Craigslist for next to nothing. Junk yards are a good idea as well.

Get some purdy new ones: http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/Datsun.htm

Nice job, Bill!

What's the difference between installing coilovers, and dropping the car 1, 2, or even 4 inches? Installation is the same. Your decision on strut tube sectioning should be based on how much you plan to lower the car. As detailed in the archives, the struts should be sectioned if you plan to lower the car more than 1.5-2 inches. Otherwise, just get a Ground Control kit, shave the perches, and go. I don't understand your reasoning behind getting inserts with a "2in shorter extended length"? I recommend re-reading some of those threads until you have a solid grasp of what's involved, and the reasons behind performing certain tasks.

Correct. The slave mounts to the transmission, with its rod pushing against the shift fork.

It's not a problem, especially if the lines are small. Place the log where you see fit, as long as it's in the proximity of the intake, you'll be fine.

Sorry for the tangent, but I have Megajolt and will be finishing the install soon. Since the Cannon manifold has a built-in balance tube, I should be able to get away with using one of the already tapped ports to run a line to a vacuum canister and then to the MAP sensor. If your manifold has a balance tube already, it shouldn't be necessary to add a vacuum log. For those without a balance tube, the solutions in this thread are solid. Just tap all runners and tie them into a log. If the log gives a poor signal, then implement a vacuum chamber.

He was asking 400, so I think I got a decent deal. Maybe this weekend will give me some time to see whether they bolt to the stock rails and how they fit in the car. I've really been splurging on Z-stuff recently, and I'm feeling a bit financially irresponsible. There is a 4.375 R200 CLSD in my future! I made a promise to myself to not spend any more money on the Z until next year...

This is all detailed in the FSM. There is no need to remove the dash to get the gauges out.

I agree, the '06-'07 nose grew on me as well. Upon first glance it was ugly but it appeals to me more than all other years now. I'd have plenty of fun with a WRX or STI but they're just not the car I'm looking for right now. In case I have to get a more practical car down the road, the '06-'07 WRX wagon will be at the top!

It all makes sense now. The Mazda5 is a quirky little car, very practical and utilitarian! Maybe not the most efficient choice, but I guess you need a tank when it comes to commuting in NC!

I agree, very clear and concise. Well done!

Wow, nice! I agree on the years as well, it's the most polished evolution of the WRX, IMO. Why'd you sell?

Thanks! Ended up paying $280. Thanks man! Supposedly, they bolt up to stock rails. I've yet to try, but I'll definitely give a report on how they fit compared to my stock seats. The thing is though, I'm not really sure on where these seats came from. The guy I got it from said that they are replica seats, possibly from "East Bear" but I really don't have an idea what they are yet. I'll be researching to see if I can find the seats' origin.

Got another little Christmas present for myself today! Looks like I need a new camera, they look better in person.

I haven't driven an '07 and older STI but the '06 WRX shifter and clutch felt better than the '08 STI, among other things. I think the weight and transmission would be my biggest complaints about the '08. I've liked the WRX wagons for a long time, and if I were forced to get something practical I think an '06-'07 would be at the top of my list. I can haul almost anything, fit the dogs, go skiing, and still have fun on the twisties! As far as putting in engine in the back, it would be much easier than what I'm used to doing: My brother and I usually pull 'em out by hand.

This has been discussed many times.

No problem, hope it gave a boost to your motivation! You'll have to drive it sometime!

I agree, I'd keep the stock tank for a street car. Putting in a fuel cell is a PITA, at least when doing it "right", and I'm sure a good quality one is pretty expensive. Like I said, just put in new fuel evap lines when you do the tank and you'll be good to go, along with a working stock fuel filler to boot!

I think Nissan's exterior designers must be blind pessimists. Backroom conversation: "You think some sucker will buy this crap?" "Only one way to find out..." I can't imagine how else you can make something so hideous. I went to the SF Auto Show in November. I really wish I never walked into the Nissan booth, because I saw this: Along with the Cube, Juke, and the <insert Nissan car here>. Ugh. Nissan's display made me want to Oedipus my eyes.

Contact "Derek" on this forum, he may still be selling them.

Hope I didn't scare anyone!

I would go with his suggestion. If you want to build the rest system yourself, I bet a muffler shop wouldn't charge much at all to expand a few ends of piping. The shop I used is Exhaust Works in Belmont, owner's name is Todd. He's a really cool guy and gives amazing prices for the kind of work he does.

FYI, I installed the header and had a one-man shop build me the rest of the system for $300. I thought about making it myself but my decision was based on my skills, time and finances. I have limited exhaust building experience, not enough time, and don't mind throwing down $300 for a full exhaust! I can give you the guy's info if you want to go that route.

A stock L28 has more power than a stock L24. Horsepower was rated differently in the two engine plates you looked at.