Leon

Sorry for the tangent, but I have Megajolt and will be finishing the install soon. Since the Cannon manifold has a built-in balance tube, I should be able to get away with using one of the already tapped ports to run a line to a vacuum canister and then to the MAP sensor. If your manifold has a balance tube already, it shouldn't be necessary to add a vacuum log. For those without a balance tube, the solutions in this thread are solid. Just tap all runners and tie them into a log. If the log gives a poor signal, then implement a vacuum chamber.

He was asking 400, so I think I got a decent deal. Maybe this weekend will give me some time to see whether they bolt to the stock rails and how they fit in the car. I've really been splurging on Z-stuff recently, and I'm feeling a bit financially irresponsible. There is a 4.375 R200 CLSD in my future! I made a promise to myself to not spend any more money on the Z until next year...

This is all detailed in the FSM. There is no need to remove the dash to get the gauges out.

I agree, the '06-'07 nose grew on me as well. Upon first glance it was ugly but it appeals to me more than all other years now. I'd have plenty of fun with a WRX or STI but they're just not the car I'm looking for right now. In case I have to get a more practical car down the road, the '06-'07 WRX wagon will be at the top!

It all makes sense now. The Mazda5 is a quirky little car, very practical and utilitarian! Maybe not the most efficient choice, but I guess you need a tank when it comes to commuting in NC!

I agree, very clear and concise. Well done!

Wow, nice! I agree on the years as well, it's the most polished evolution of the WRX, IMO. Why'd you sell?

Thanks! Ended up paying $280. Thanks man! Supposedly, they bolt up to stock rails. I've yet to try, but I'll definitely give a report on how they fit compared to my stock seats. The thing is though, I'm not really sure on where these seats came from. The guy I got it from said that they are replica seats, possibly from "East Bear" but I really don't have an idea what they are yet. I'll be researching to see if I can find the seats' origin.

Got another little Christmas present for myself today! Looks like I need a new camera, they look better in person.

I haven't driven an '07 and older STI but the '06 WRX shifter and clutch felt better than the '08 STI, among other things. I think the weight and transmission would be my biggest complaints about the '08. I've liked the WRX wagons for a long time, and if I were forced to get something practical I think an '06-'07 would be at the top of my list. I can haul almost anything, fit the dogs, go skiing, and still have fun on the twisties! As far as putting in engine in the back, it would be much easier than what I'm used to doing: My brother and I usually pull 'em out by hand.

This has been discussed many times.

No problem, hope it gave a boost to your motivation! You'll have to drive it sometime!

I agree, I'd keep the stock tank for a street car. Putting in a fuel cell is a PITA, at least when doing it "right", and I'm sure a good quality one is pretty expensive. Like I said, just put in new fuel evap lines when you do the tank and you'll be good to go, along with a working stock fuel filler to boot!

I think Nissan's exterior designers must be blind pessimists. Backroom conversation: "You think some sucker will buy this crap?" "Only one way to find out..." I can't imagine how else you can make something so hideous. I went to the SF Auto Show in November. I really wish I never walked into the Nissan booth, because I saw this: Along with the Cube, Juke, and the <insert Nissan car here>. Ugh. Nissan's display made me want to Oedipus my eyes.

Contact "Derek" on this forum, he may still be selling them.

Hope I didn't scare anyone!

I would go with his suggestion. If you want to build the rest system yourself, I bet a muffler shop wouldn't charge much at all to expand a few ends of piping. The shop I used is Exhaust Works in Belmont, owner's name is Todd. He's a really cool guy and gives amazing prices for the kind of work he does.

FYI, I installed the header and had a one-man shop build me the rest of the system for $300. I thought about making it myself but my decision was based on my skills, time and finances. I have limited exhaust building experience, not enough time, and don't mind throwing down $300 for a full exhaust! I can give you the guy's info if you want to go that route.

A stock L28 has more power than a stock L24. Horsepower was rated differently in the two engine plates you looked at.

I like some rasp, but it's definitely pretty raspy! It's hard to say what would get it out as there are so many combinations of pipe sizes, resonator locations and types, etc. You could go with a proven combo that you like and if you know the specs.

The S4 was on my list, although it was the B6/B7 generation (4.2L V8). Frankly, I would not even touch the bi-turbos. The reliability was disastrous! What pulled me away from the S4 was the portliness (weighs as much as a small yacht ), horrendous gas mileage, and reliability/maintenance/parts cost. They do have a nice interior and a sweet engine. However, it's just not the type of car I'm looking for. It's a luxury sedan with hints of sports car. I must admit that I did drool over them! I've driven the 2008 STI and honestly did not like it. The power delivery is fun but everything else is just, bleh. Although, when my fiancee and I were looking for a car we did check out a 2006 WRX wagon. I really liked that car for what it is. It's very versatile, yet fun. I enjoyed it more than the STI, actually! You're right about the mpg though. I really like the S2k. I've never had a problem with their prices and would much prefer one to the Miata, which feels anemic compared to the Honda. It will get 30mpg if I drive it like I drive my Accord, which gets 31-33 mpg. I think that Honda's engineers did a fantastic job with it and I don't feel the need to modify anything. I like it the way it is! I've always been very wary of other people's projects, even when completed and road-tested. My rule has always been that if I'm going to spend a lot of money on a car, it will not be modified, or very minimally so. If I feel the need, I'll do the modifications myself. I prefer to start with stock, and in the case of the S2k, M Coupe, and probably Z06, I don't think they need a thing! I do really appreciate the advice and thinking outside the box. It's much better to have all your eyes and minds on this, instead of me obsessively blabbering to my fiancee until her ears bleed.

Fairly loud. I have two glasspacks per pipe, and it's almost too loud on the freeway and kind of obnoxious when I get on it. I do like the sound, but I also really like the deeper sound of those twice pipes that you posted. Actually, I can try to stop by tomorrow after work, if I take the Z to work like I plan to. I'll shoot you a PM.

Actually, NOx emissions peak around 16.5:1. At 19:1, NOx levels likely drop down to where they were at ~14:1, or lower, as combustion temps keep dropping. If you can actually run your engine at a consistent 19:1, your NOx emmissions are fine. However, if you're having intermittent incomplete combustion (likely, especially with an older engine at 19:1AFR), then HC will skyrocket from these misfires. This is yet another common fallacy, so bear with me on this one. Burned gas (combustion) temperatures are dropping as the mixture leans out, not increasing. Higher cylinder temperature means higher cylinder pressure, higher cylinder pressure means more torque. Otherwise, if temps were increasing as you went leaner, you'd get best power from an engine by running it lean. This is not the case. The maximum combustion temperature point is slightly below stoichiometric (e.g. rich, about 13:1). This is because the dissociation of certain chemical compounds in the cylinder presents a little bit of extra oxygen, which can be taken advantage of by putting in a bit more fuel. Formation of NOx depends on temperature and the amount of O2 present in the exhaust gasses. The reason NOx is a maximum when the engine is lean (~16:1) is because as the mixture is leaned out, rising O2 concentrations initially offset dropping combustion temps. This is akin to the torque and power relationship. The torque curve has a peak (dictated by the engine's design) at a certain rpm. Power is an equation dependent on torque and rpm (generally speaking: Power = Torque X Speed). Look at engine ratings, the rpm where max power occurs is always higher than peak torque rpm. Why? Because the increase in rpm initially makes up for the loss of torque. Same thing with NOx! Except now you can look at combustion temps as the "torque curve" (maximum dictated by AFR, at ~13:1) and O2 concentration as the "engine rpm" (keeps increasing). NOx is your "power curve". As combustion chamber temperature begins dropping, O2 concentration increases. The initial increase of O2 offsets the decrease in temperature and therefore increases NOx to a maximum when slightly lean. After that, NOx drops back down. Reference: "Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals" by Heywood

The thought did briefly pop into my head! However, it's a lot of work, for which I have absolutely no time and I'd have to go through a bit of a process to make a swap like that legal in CA. It's a cool car, but I'm essentially looking for a "plug-and-play" (turnthekey-and-play? ) kind of thing.

Anyone up for a Ferrari into S30 swap?