Leon

The TC rod takes the longitudinal forces, so braking was likely unaltered. Steering effort increased because the tie-rod was now taking steering and lateral loads.

The reason people use 280Z Tokico springs is because they are linear. The 240Z Tokico springs are the progressive ones.

Yup, that's a control arm. The picture is dark, but you can see the tie-rod is still intact and the broken piece attaches to the LCA mount on the crossmember.

Judging by your stated needs, there is no reason to go so custom on the suspension. Sure, it would be cool but not cost, nor time-effective. I would sell all that stuff you have and get S30 parts as others have suggested. You want something fun to drive around on the street, and for that I think you will be satisfied with stiffer springs, matching shocks (as John points out, this is key), poly bushings, and maybe larger ARBs. This will be much less time and energy intensive and definitely cheaper than going a fully custom route. If you feel like building something, take a look at all the threads on building control arms and coil-overs. This will give your suspension some adjustability, but I just don't see a reason for it from the intended use of the car. There is absolutely no need to get 300ZX brakes and an R230 rear end for what you're doing. Again, it would be cool but not necessary. Stick with a simpler plan and you'll have the car on the road much quicker so that you can enjoy it! As Stepan also pointed out, there is no such thing as a "perfect" suspension. Suspension design always involves compromises. Ride quality and road handling have an inverse relationship, mostly dictated by the dampers.

I would check clutch hydraulics way before even thinking about synchros. I second Pete and Jon; check fluid first, check master and slave cylinders, and bleed the system whether you replace hydraulics or not.

Sweet! I've been on the lookout for an M Coupe myself.

Nice! I ended up getting a 1/2" longer bolt from a local hardware store. Made things real easy!

Ok... I wasn't looking for input, but thanks anyway.

Nice choice, the E36 M3 is one hell of a car, especially for the money!

Yeah, it's not too bad. It's much better than leaving the holes, but looks a bit cheap up close.

Here's the PO's solution to the problem on my 260Z:

:lmao: Good find Mike, that's classic!!!

I'll third that this is a bad idea for the reasons mentioned. BTW, foam in your rockers won't help you in a rollover...

A distributor has a set advance curve, no matter where you time it at idle. You can't change the advance curve without physically modifying its innards. Therefore, the answer to your question is yes, the advance curve is already set for the entire powerband from the factory. You must set the correct static timing. Take a peek inside the FSM and it will have everything you need to know.

This has been done, search please. Use google, as you'll get results from a few different Z-sites.

Superformance GT40 with some frankenstein drivetrain?

Do you have the FSM? If not download it from Xenon's site (xenons30.com). Read the ignition section in the Engine Electrical section. There is a description of system operation and troubleshooting. I would first check for voltage at the coil and then check the points visually and measure point gap. If there is no voltage at the coil, trace the wires until you find the problem. This is assuming that this is regarding the car in your sig. FYI, this should be in the Troubleshooting forum.

I'm in a similar predicament. My 260Z still has the stock seats, but I have trouble fitting with a helmet on as I'm 6'2". Also, the roll bar is very close to the seat-back, which puts limits on seat-back thickness. I've been casually looking for a "race" seat but like you say, everything seems to place you higher than stock seats. I need the seat height to be, at worst, the same as stock and if I could find something that drops me lower then that would be awesome! Good luck in your search, I'll let you know if I find something that works.

I'm in a similar spot as Tony. I got a baseline run and then put on a header, however with a different exhaust (twin pipes). Feels about the same as before, just sounds different. Only the dyno will tell, I will schedule another run hopefully before the end of the year.

Here's where I got mine: http://ltbautosports.com/ni24.html Best price I found.

Just curious, how did you know you lost low end and gain high end? Dyno numbers? Nonetheless, we need pics and video!

I don't doubt that, and I'm sure a fresh, well-built distributor can be very accurate. The difference here between crank-trigger and distributor is that there is no shaft, bushings, bearings, etc to wear out. As those parts of a distributor are wear down, timing will be less and less accurate. It really comes down to what you need. Do you need something that works with minimal time and money put in? Do you need to follow a certain rule-set? Do you need full programmability? A distributor is fine, but I much prefer to trigger my spark off the crank and change spark advance with a keystroke than play around with advance springs and breaker plates.

Yes, it should be a hell of a lot more stable than a distributor since the sensor reads right off the crank. I'm replacing the stock 260Z distributor which has an undesireable timing curve for my triple Webers. I get 26 degrees of mechanical so I can only run about 10 degrees static, max. I have a 280ZX electronic distributor with 17 degrees of mechanical, going off of my memory, but I decided to quit screwing with distributors and go with a fully programmable system. Being able to create my own map is a big plus, because not only will I have an optimal timing curve at WOT, but also at cruise. A load-sensing timing curve (MAP sensor) also enhances throttle tip-in. The accuracy, tunability, and great price made the choice to convert to EDIS easy for me. Additionally, it allows me to keep the triples while having an awesome ignition system!

I'm converting to crank-trigger ignition using EDIS 6 and Megajolt. It cost me in the range of $400, but it can be done for $200-250 with time and ingenuity. It's also fully programmable, which is what I was looking for.

I think I bought my two cans (440 rd. each) for $130-140 last year.