Leon

:lmao: Good find Mike, that's classic!!!

I'll third that this is a bad idea for the reasons mentioned. BTW, foam in your rockers won't help you in a rollover...

A distributor has a set advance curve, no matter where you time it at idle. You can't change the advance curve without physically modifying its innards. Therefore, the answer to your question is yes, the advance curve is already set for the entire powerband from the factory. You must set the correct static timing. Take a peek inside the FSM and it will have everything you need to know.

This has been done, search please. Use google, as you'll get results from a few different Z-sites.

Superformance GT40 with some frankenstein drivetrain?

Do you have the FSM? If not download it from Xenon's site (xenons30.com). Read the ignition section in the Engine Electrical section. There is a description of system operation and troubleshooting. I would first check for voltage at the coil and then check the points visually and measure point gap. If there is no voltage at the coil, trace the wires until you find the problem. This is assuming that this is regarding the car in your sig. FYI, this should be in the Troubleshooting forum.

I'm in a similar predicament. My 260Z still has the stock seats, but I have trouble fitting with a helmet on as I'm 6'2". Also, the roll bar is very close to the seat-back, which puts limits on seat-back thickness. I've been casually looking for a "race" seat but like you say, everything seems to place you higher than stock seats. I need the seat height to be, at worst, the same as stock and if I could find something that drops me lower then that would be awesome! Good luck in your search, I'll let you know if I find something that works.

I'm in a similar spot as Tony. I got a baseline run and then put on a header, however with a different exhaust (twin pipes). Feels about the same as before, just sounds different. Only the dyno will tell, I will schedule another run hopefully before the end of the year.

Here's where I got mine: http://ltbautosports.com/ni24.html Best price I found.

Just curious, how did you know you lost low end and gain high end? Dyno numbers? Nonetheless, we need pics and video!

I don't doubt that, and I'm sure a fresh, well-built distributor can be very accurate. The difference here between crank-trigger and distributor is that there is no shaft, bushings, bearings, etc to wear out. As those parts of a distributor are wear down, timing will be less and less accurate. It really comes down to what you need. Do you need something that works with minimal time and money put in? Do you need to follow a certain rule-set? Do you need full programmability? A distributor is fine, but I much prefer to trigger my spark off the crank and change spark advance with a keystroke than play around with advance springs and breaker plates.

Yes, it should be a hell of a lot more stable than a distributor since the sensor reads right off the crank. I'm replacing the stock 260Z distributor which has an undesireable timing curve for my triple Webers. I get 26 degrees of mechanical so I can only run about 10 degrees static, max. I have a 280ZX electronic distributor with 17 degrees of mechanical, going off of my memory, but I decided to quit screwing with distributors and go with a fully programmable system. Being able to create my own map is a big plus, because not only will I have an optimal timing curve at WOT, but also at cruise. A load-sensing timing curve (MAP sensor) also enhances throttle tip-in. The accuracy, tunability, and great price made the choice to convert to EDIS easy for me. Additionally, it allows me to keep the triples while having an awesome ignition system!

I'm converting to crank-trigger ignition using EDIS 6 and Megajolt. It cost me in the range of $400, but it can be done for $200-250 with time and ingenuity. It's also fully programmable, which is what I was looking for.

I think I bought my two cans (440 rd. each) for $130-140 last year.

Damn, quite a collection! I only have one currently, a Russian M91 manufactured in '42. I love the surplus ammo, although the corrosive stuff seems to make my bolt stick after a while. Although, I do have enough rounds to fend off a zombie invasion! Ever go to the Los Altos range? It's a nice range and an awesome drive getting to it.

Take a look at a wiring diagram, or how about the FSM? That button would be the emergency switch, which bypasses the starter interlock when pressed with ignition on. It has absolutely nothing to do with emissions.

Higher octane fuel does not have a higher energy content, that is a common misconception. Higher octane has a higher resistance to ignition, thus it is used with engines running higher compression ratios (or boost) which generate more heat in the cylinder. Minimum octane required changes with many factors, including ambient temp, pressure, and compression ratio, among other things. Use gasoline with an octane rating high enough for MBT timing. The thing is, spark timing is a very important factor in engine operation, with compression ratio being a more minor one. A bump from 7.5 to 8.5:1 compression may net 2-3% gains, but drop spark timing a few degrees from MBT and you're way down on torque production. Now, NA L-engines have been turbocharged in the past with good results. As long as the tune is correct, there should not be a problem. My 2 cents.

Well there's your problem. Swap left-to-right and you'll be good to go.

Are all of your bleeders at the top of your calipers?

No, the front struts of the early 260Z are slightly longer and have a lower spring perch than the 240Z. The rear struts of the 240Z and early 260Z are the same. I think the late 260Z has the same tubes as a 280Z.

Actually, he is 100% right. This has nothing to do with Hooke's Law. Cutting a coil spring will increase its spring rate, k, since it changes the spring's properties. Whether it's a linear or progressive spring doesn't matter. Decreasing the amount of coils increases the spring rate, as show by the spring constant equation: http://engineersedge.com/spring_comp_calc_k.htm

If both have balance tube, there shouldn't be much of a difference. What you refer to vacuum is simply pressure below atmospheric. Pascal says that pressure is equally distributed across all surfaces in a confined space, so no, there will not be 3 times less pressure if you have three separate taps. Running six individual lines to each intake tract may be slightly more accurate (more viscous damping, meaning cleaner signal) but for all intents and purposes both setups should be similar in their results. You can also use a small chamber with a restrictor at the inlet, if you want a cleaner signal. What are you trying to achieve, working vac advance?

A surge tank does not necessarily need to be mounted in the engine bay...

Damn, you aren't kidding about the popping! Sounds pretty nice though, I like the tone.

A little discussion we had recently: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101932-compound-and-twin-charging-discussion/