Scottie-GNZ

Sorry about that. First need to figure out just what engine is in that GN. If he has a Stage 2 then he either paid BIG buck$ for ot and the install or he paid big buck$ for the car if it was already installed. You do not mistake a Stage 2 with a big turbo since you would have to pull 2 spark plugs to prevent it from making 600hp . Sounds like a standard GN engine but a 5600 stall is unbelivable or he has a busted converter. Have him drive the car at about 15mph then floor it and whatever the RPM flashes up to is close to the stall. If it does go way up there, I would pull it out.

Either he thinks he is knowledgable or you heard him wrong. I can se a Buick Stage 2 engine (note I did not say GN engine) having a 5600 stall but I would expect him to be shifting at 8000 since 5600 is out of the peak power band. A stage 2 engine needing a 5600 stall is probably making north of 1000hp. Now, a GN engine with a 3600 stall and shifting around 5600 is dead-on. Hard to say what stall you need for the GTO, but it is not 5600. I would say more like 3000 but this is where you call the manufacturer and tell them details of the car and purpose and they help determine the correct stall. Keep in mind that a converter manufacturer should allow 1 or 2 free restalls in the event it is not right the first time. See what guys on the GTO forums with similar setups says works. Dont let a turbo guy recommend a converter for an N/A. 2 completely different worlds.

The engine is being left stock for starters but everything is being built/configured to support well over 700hp. Until the engine is built, boost will be severely limited, engine tuned accordingly and it will have a progressive alky inj system.

Here is a tease for why this setup is needed. The Mobil1 bottle is for a point of reference.

Been using AlkyControl for several years. It works off a MAP sensor and allows you to dial in the point it starts injecting, and progressively increases volume with boost. It has a gain control knob that allows you to increase volume on the fly, a test button so you make sure it is injecting, a low-level light, "On (injecting) light" and another adjustment to increase voltage to the pump and the best customer service out there. I understand some of the newer systems claim to have more advanced features but since I have no experience with them, cannot comment on them. 27psi boost with a T-72 with a pump gas mix equiv to about 97-octane for the track and estimating about 630+RWHP. Going through the traps with 27psi, the IAT (just pass the TB) registers ambient on a "cool" Orlando summer evening. With that, I have no reason to want to switch.

If you believe that an n/a 427ci engine has more "displacement" than a forced-induction 383ci engine, then you are making the classic mistake of focusing on just physical displacement. It's not how much displacement an engine has that is important, it is how efficiently the engine can fill up that displacement. Remember, an n/a 427ci engine has the potential to fill its cylinders with a volume equal to 427ci while a 383ci forced-induction engine @ 14.7psi has the potential for 766ci. The trick is, how effecient is each setup. As for turbo lag, lag is what you make it. If someone turbos a 427ci V8 or even a 383ci V8 and has unbearable lag, then they did something wrong and cant just say its because of the turbo. You need to look at turbo lag the same way you would if someone took a small displacement V8 (remember the 302 SBC and Boss 302) and put 2.19" intake valves, high-lift/long-duration cam, heads that flow ungodly numbers and a 1000CFm carb on it. How responsive is that engine going to be? But GAWD, when it finally gets cooking...... Wait a second, that sounds just like turbo lag BTW, when do you mean when you say the Mazda with the turbo was squirrely? The engine was squirrely (???) or the suspension? As for the 427 in the Z, throw a cam in it and a 100-shot for the rare occassion when you might need it, like when a pesky twin-turbo Viper rolls up next to you.

Yikes! Hope he corrects that "problem" soon. That's neither safe nor smart Also, unless it is well hidden, I do not see a cage in the car or at least I do not see door bars.

I dont have a Z anymore but if I was in your position, I would relo the battery to the hatch area and have Roostmonkey make you a custom SS tank that fits in the battery location. He made one for me that I fit behind the pass-side headlights and it turned out awesome. He has skillZ. Move the heavy, ugly battery to the rear and have a polished SS custom tank to dress up the engine bay.

While the ATI kit is about $35 cheaper than the Boostwerx, it states you have to use their 9" converter which lists for almost $1000. I am using a Precision Vigilante that cost $640. Not pushing anyone towards the Boostwerx but I did all the reasearch and decided on the Boostwerx.

Are these new? Blems?

I am using the Boostwerx kit. Not a fan of the cut-the-bellhousing method but I understand the potential fitment issue. Obviously it works since that is what Z-Gad has.

NUTS! Gotta remember to avoid lining up next to you.

Happy Birthday!!! It is also mine and good to see another "mature" hotrodder out there still having fun.

I think too many people underestimate what you can get out of a stock turbo cam. Unlike an N/A, a turbo engine is less reliant on lift and duration to get more of an intake charge. You simple find a way to increase the boost. But, as Z U L8R asks, what are your goals?

Here is some info on mine. http://www.racetronix.com/17113742FM.html

Just pulled my Delphi 75# injs if you are interested. Getting ready to see what I can get on e-Bay. PM me if you are interested. BTW, are you sure about the 1/8-mile MPH? Sure you do not mean 98.7?

How do you sleep at night? :D

Make sure you drive out all the demons before you turn it over to me

CONGRATS

That's an all-aluminum block and a fairly mild tune for that engine. After all, it was only running 18psi. Speeder will easily top that when he gets his iron-block/alum heads version into "Porker".

Nice video. How did those Ls and NAs go so fast? Maybe you missed the commentator saying "... a healthy dose of nitrous" and ".... tube chassis weighing in at 850kg".

Boy, I go away for a week and look what happens

Too often, people doing engine swaps focus on only one and forget or do not understand the other.

Glad to see someone else using the trusty old plumb-bob method for driveline alignment.

Contact Warren.