Scottie-GNZ

Even though you are talking FWHP, I would still be leery of running a single pump @ 70+psi w/o a volt-booster. As you said, most pumps fall off above 75psi and the answer is to throw more voltage at them or a 2nd pump. If you definitely have meth-inj in your plans, then I would stay with the 72s, add a volt-booster to the pump and see how far that takes you. Whichever route you take, do not bank on that single pump providing more than 200lph w/o a volt-booster.

The RX7 n/a diff is equivalent to the R180 and the RX7 turbo diff is equivalent to the R200. A 2JZ is not exactly a torque monster but compared to a rotary, it is. If he rotary engine broke the n/a diff, then a 2JZ with a manual will "challenge" the R180 and probably win.

I dont see a smiliey but I hope this is a joke because I am on the floor rolling in laughter.

While the logic in your formulas make sense, the flaw is what happens to that pump at 86psi. IMHO, you already have one bandaid, i.e., running 58+psi FP. With that, I would point my finger at the single pump trying to provide the required fuel @ 86psi with only 13.8V. I am willing to bet if you wired up a voltmeter on that pump at 86psi, you are lucky if the pump is getting 12.5V, especially with the stock fuel pump relay. My guess is the pump is probably supplying no more 175lph under those conditions. Do not believe that because you have 72# injs and the formulas say it should work, that it will. Ask me how I know. I struggled for a while with a similar problem and Z-Gad can attest to it as he was scratching his head also. I would instantly go lean at high RPMs with my 72#ers. Never thought it was the injs because I was not making enough HP to max them out with the alky and the DC was in the high 80s and I run dual in-tank Walbros. Bought Z-Gad's 96#ers and the problem went away. You still have not said if the 650hp you refer to is RWHP or FWHP. No way you are going to get a single pump to support that w/o a volt booster. At your boost and power levels, here is what I advise, based on my experience. Go to 96# injs. Install a 2nd pump. If your return line is smaller than -6, install a 15# pressure switch in the compressor housing to turn on the 2nd pump. Too small a return might cause an issue at idle with both pumps on. Ditch the stock FP relay and install a seperate relay for each pump with 10g + & - wiring. Use the 30 off the stock relay as the trigger for both new relays and run the ground for the 2nd pump relay through the pressure switch. Set the FP back to 43 and the boost to 20psi and start from there. Yes, this is exacltly how I have mine set up. Now at an estimated 840 at the crank, my inj DC is in the mid-60s with 43# static + 27psi. Of course, that is result of approx 20% of what is being ingested being meth and the engine loves it especially when going thru the traps at full boost with an IAT in the mid-hi 80s. OK, OK, I love meth but you get the point. I might be off base with your problem but it just sounds too familiar to what I struggled with.

Jeff, both Z-Gad and I run BPR7s gapped at .022 in the 2JZs at 27+psi (30+ for Z-Gad). I absolutely endorse meth inj but do not use it as a stopgap for a problem. I would want to see you identify the problem then add the meth inj. Couple of things to consider: factor your injs based on FWHP not RWHP; Find a way to put a voltmeter on the pump(s) to make sure you have enough and stable voltage under load.

I will be there around 6:15.

Gonna try and test my car tonight at OSW, if anyone is interested in getting off the couch.

Hope you learned your lesson :D

Would need to get more details on that coupler but I see a couple of issues with it. First, it says "starts at $695" and i doubt that setup could fit inside my torque arm setup. The torque arm setup is the reason why the driveshaft is not easily removed. Here is a picture of the torque arm setup and as you look at that, imaging it with a bigger 3" od driveshaft. A 4600# Olds with a 455 and 400 lb/ft torque is nowhere close to a 700hp turbo car leaving the line @ 5000 and 15-20psi boost

That is an excellent question. If the rear wheels are turning, so is the driveshaft, so is the tranny tailshaft and therefore internal components are also turning without the pump feeding those components fluid. In my mind I am thinking there will always be some fluid on those components, but I have never seen anyone say it is OK to do it. MOF, the experts say DO NOT do it.

I will look into these but doubt it could hold up to high-boost t-brake launches.

You are a riot. My plans are to tow my car with a tow dolly, front wheels up. Removing my driveshaft is not an option. I am negotiating to buy an LS1/T56 2000 S-10 or build one with a 5.3L or 6.0L if the deal falls through. That is as big a truck as I will ever own and more than enough to haul the dolly with elec-brakes on the dolly. Bottom line is, I want to tow my car but do not want a monster truck and trailer. I will talk to RV shops and see what ideas they have.

Back in the days when racers could not afford expensive trailers and tow rigs, they flat-towed their race cars and used free-floating hubs on the rear wheels. With these hubs, you removed the rear wheel/tires and bolted up these hubs to the wheel studs, then bolted up a pair of "normal" wheels/tires to the hubs. With such, the auto tranny could be left in park without concern for damage. IIRC, the popular hub was made by NMW, but I cannot find anything about them. Anyone remember these hubs and have any idea if such things are still available on the market?

What is the fascination with having an aluminum block? If it is weight, the 100 or so lbs you save from the block will be partially negated by the fact that an aluminum block engine will probably be DOHC which means the head will be taller, wider, heavier than a stock L28 head. Simply moving the 45# battery from the nose to the hatch area will probably give better F/R weight distribution. If it is for WOW factor, then no questions asked. If it is for N/A power, will it make more power than a stroker? if it is turbo, then that's a whole nuther ballgame and weight savings from the engine block means nothing. Dont dismiss the Chevy L6 as suggested. There is just something about a street car with boundless torque from a big 6.

I would not worry about or try to figure out "power loss" of an auto tranny or one vs another or auto vs manual. Focus on the converter and having the most efficient converter you can get and understand there is a direct relationship between having minimum slip and a high enough stall to launch hard. If you plan on using a t-brake and nitrous, then it is easy as you just need to get a faily tight converter and spray on the brake. Best of both worlds. Perfect example of this is that 1st-gen, backhalved, 2FZ-powered Probe that runs 8s with a relatively stock engine with cams. He runs a 2800-2900 stall, sprays it on the brake and leaves at 7000 with 30psi boost......1.24s and mid-8s. Regardless of what you hear about power loss from an auto tranny, a big-HP turbo car will always be quicker than a manual because of how the auto tranny helps the turbo engine under load.

Dont believe that unless you have a really sophisticated boost controller with ramp and lots of track time to dial it in. With your power goals, nothing less than a 315 or 325 DR will work. I ran the 27x11.5x15 QTPs on the GNZ. 4800 on the T-brake with the GN engine netted me 1.36 and no trace of wheelspin. I just installed 26x11.5x15 QTPs on 15x9s. Hope to test this Sunday.

Anyone ever found out the details on the engine in that car?

Only if he wants to go slower Darin is switching to an automatic so he can go quicker than 8.55 and be more consistent to comptete in NHRA/NOPI.

AFR is not rock-steady at idle, but it does not hunt. Rich at idle and the instant you crack the throtlle, it goes full lean, beyond the display range of the AEM WB gauge. TPS is set using "Autocal". It initially sets them correctly but then the HIGH always seems to reset itself to "000". I recall mentioning this once and was told the TEC2 does not reference the HIGH. Strangely enough, the low failure value is 0.04 and I never get a failure signal. Maybe Tim will chime in.

Need a little help here guys. Engine wants to idle at 10.9:1 - 11..3:1, rich, I know, but when I crack the throttle, it instantly goes extreme lean. The engine is very sensitive to the Minimum Inj On Time seting but I feel like there are other parameters that can help correct. have never built a TPS Blend table and the Accel Enrichments settings are somewhat baffling. Those seem to be ones that might (should) have an effect on off-idle and low-speed acceleration. I am not running an IAC and this issue seems to have started recently yet cannot think of anything I have done that would have cause that. Any thoughts? Its almost as if when I crack the throtlle I suddenly have a massive vacuum leak, LOL, but has not effect on WOT performance.

+1 for the E36 M3. 97 coupe, 5-spd, bone-stock and will stay that way.

Based on the description of your Mustang, sounds like Instead of saying "it's just too dangerous IMO with a fast car", you should be saying "it's just too fast IMO with a dangerous car" :D

Dry sump is not limited to the GT3. Every 911 ever manufactured had dry sump.

Avoid Slick 50. I had a similar problem with my '80 5-spd and the problem went away after using Redline MTL.

Simply Awesome!