Scottie-GNZ

Type out your timeslip to back it up and quell the skepticism.

Good luck on the next iteration of a gorgeous car. Any of those 3 will do nicely. Do not procrastinate. Just do whichever is most readily available. Since you like to drag race, any of those 3 with a manual and really sticky tires (and you will need them) will grenade the rear end, so make sure you think about that.

There is a big difference between "street legal" and "street driven". Most of the quick cars listed here might have a license plate but they sure as hell are not driven on the street on a regular basis or for any distance, let alone hundreds of miles at highway speed. E.g., Z-Gad recently had to get his chassis certified and drove a couple of hundred miles to get that done. Got back just in time to swap tires, throw in the race gas and drive ot the track to do his license runs and clicked off a 9.1 @ 147+ trying to avoid 150mph because the car still does not have a parachute. Now, that is a street driven car, not to mention I drove it home 400 miles from SEZ 2 years ago! Unless a car has a timeslip to back up its claim or reputation, you cannot compare it. There is a ton of information that can be gotten from a timeslip beyond just the ET. You can still tell a lot about a car's power and potential even if the ET is not stellar because the car is not setup for drag racing or the driver has no 1/4-mile driving experience.

...alky injection.

"Shipping Costs: Pickup only"

Folks, you are forgetting a couple of things. Most all here that are running an R200, bought a used 20-25 yr-old part with no idea of the condition or how it was mantained. For all you know, when you bought it, it still had the original lube from the factory. The other thing is that most of the hard charging cars mentioned in this post run automatics. imagadget did say he will be using a TH350 and have no plans for drag racing so it has a very good chance of surviving. OTOH, if it is an open diff with regular street tires, frequent wheelspins will probably bust the spider gears and retaining pin. I recall jmortensen writing an excellent article on this topic.

Hey Greg, glad to see you still hang around here.

That was my thinking when I did mine back in.....err, let's just say a long time ago Never measured the temp difference but since the air off the rad/fan is expected to be maybe 180*+, it would definitely be warmer than the outlet of the I/C. Rule of thumb says you gain about 1% power for every 10* you reduce the IAT. However, as you increase boost you also increase the temp of the charge going into the I/C, so the temp differential becomes less depending on the efficiency of the I/C. While #3 is the best, you have to route the 2 I/C pipes and as big as possible a pipe for the filter through that one side.

I think there was supposed to be a smilie on Juan's post Hope you are looking for a rear sump pan.

Good luck with the sale, Wayne.

Missed the reference to the car only weighing 1000kg. You would need about 480rwhp if you could get maximum traction off the line. Bump that number up if you are using DRs and even more if it is street tires.

If by street legal radial tires you mean just normal street tires, then add another 50hp to that number. You will have no traction or will have to creep off the line, the 60' will be slow and you will need more HP to try and make up for that. If you mean street legal drag radial (and it needs to be a healthy size like a 255 or 275) then you will fare a little better. When you are trying to go that quick, the 60' time is all important.

....and tires.

If you are not sure what injectors you have, then you are off to a bad start with the SDS since the base fuel values are derived from the injector flow rate and cylinder displacement. Make sure you know exactly what injectors you have and the required FP for those specific injectors.

That engine never came in any factory cars. Think of it as the equivalent of the SB2 Chevrolet built for NASCAR racing. If you want one you just to hang out on the turbo Buick boards to see when one is for sale and have LOTS of cash, like you would for any engine capable of making that kind of power.

No. My guess is a Buick V6 Stage II N/A. Pushrods, sh*tload of power and 8,000RPMs all day. This is the engine that Speeder is putting the TT setup on. This is a factory hot rod version of the V6 built specifically for the Busch GN NASCAR series and eventually got banned by NASCAR. In that form it made about 475-490hp, ran 8,000RPMS for 500 miles and was restricted to a 500cfm 2-bbl carb. They then turbo'd it and ran Indy cars and the Corvette GTP in IMSA for you old-timers. In the GN world 1200-1500hp is not uncommon.

What U say? Damn, I must be living in a cave or just too damn old

Laugh again if you already heard it. Guy boards a plane and as he is buckling up, he sees a nice looking woman coming down the aisle, looking in his direction. As luck would have it, she sits next to him so he decides to try his luck. "Business or pleasure trip?" he asks. "Business" she replies. "On my way to the nymphomaniac convention in Chicago. I am an expert in the matter and doing the keynote speech". The guy is flabbergasted and as he is burning brain cells on how to respond, she says "Did you know native Americans are really the ones with the biggest organs? Did you know jewish men are really the best lovers? Did you you know southern white males have the most stamina?" The guy is stunned but cannot believe his luck when she says "How rude of me. My name is Laura. What's yours?" "Tonto" he replies, "Tonto Goldstein, but my friends call me Bubba".

I used to tune for 1500-1550*. But Rick is correct in saying that the GNs with Stage II engines can and do run hotter.

That should make the tires holler for mercy!

If you think you have spark and fule then I would go back to check the pully/magnet/hall sensor position, alignment and gap.

Congratulations on being selected. Give 'em hell!

Dont get your feathers ruffled, Joel. Just joshing with ya I know what you mean about daily drivers. Mine is an M3 and it will never see any track duty.

Probably less damage than the carbon buildup from babying it

+1 for TEC 2 Tim, you are a riot