Scottie-GNZ

Ahh, the missing bit of detail

Many early Jags used the TH400 tranny. Might wanna look into what they did to make that work.

Dont believe there are any manuals for that swap. However, I believe it has been done before and discussed here, so do a search and see if you can hook up with that person. Good luck. BTW, very interesting what you have done to the Probe. Since the Probe is FWD and the FD suspension is RWD, is the Probe now AWD?

John, very nice design. When I designed my 2.5" DP, I really did not have any max HP target in mind. I designed it to be a good, budget upgrade for the stock turbo or a t3/t04 upgrade. Best HP numbers I knew of using that DP was in a '71 with a stock n/a L28 and a t3/t04 @ 23psi that went 11.7 @ 119+ on 225 street tires. I would say on a dyno that would be about equal to what you saw. Amazingly close power output for both cars. He never had any boost creep issues but the external WG and larger diameter is the way to go if you are looking to go beyond 400. Just make sure you have a good 3" mandrel exhaust and free-flow muffler behind it.

Figuring out IOT and TOG has been a point of some frustration for me with the TEC. There is a good formula that helps you figure out a ballpark TOG. Only problem is, that formula uses IOT as a factor so it seems like you have to determine your IOT first. Problem is, I have yet to find anything that tells you how to figure out a ballpark IOT. To me, it makes sense to come up with a starting point IOT and use that IOT in the formula to come up with a starting TOG. The focus then should be on tuning for a good idle and if the IOT changes, then reformulate the TOG. After you have a good idle, then focus on the TOG and WOT tuning. As I understand it, IOT has an effect on TOG but TOG has little effect on IOT. A change of 1.0 in the TOG has a 12.5% effect on WOT fueling. Problem is, every time you change the TOG, the entire VE table needs adjustment. What I have been looking for is an explanation of how to derive an IOT and a layman's explanation of cause and effect. Hopefully those links in this thread will help.

Now that you have a little extra cash flow, drain it and find a way to dispose of it. 10-gals of 93 is probably less than $30 and 2 plastic cans is about $10-12. Compare that to the cost of a fuel pump, carb rebuild or worse, engine repair.

Jon, my thoughts and prayers go out to both of you. I am so proud of how both represent yourselves with class and tell her we want to see that smiling face behind the wheel in a couple of months. Joel, glad to hear the good news for you too.

You have a P.M.

The external version of the Walbro is the GSL392. Z-Gad runs 2 of these on his 8-sec 240Z. Do not run an OEM N/A pump on a turbo motor if you plan on running a decent amount of boost.

Dynomax Ultraflo for turbo engines.

Let me state that I am not an advocate of octane boosters but a buddy of mine asked me to find out what I can about a product from Catle Power that claims to have the highest octane increase allowed by law, 10 pts. Only thing I can find are ads for the products which are going to make those claims. Anyone ever heard of it or better yet, use it or know anyone who used it and had good results.

Try to determine if it is coming from the AN fitting or the NPT fitting. I had a mysterious leak at an AN fitting once and it turned out the flare on the female end was cracked.

That is extreme. I really do not believe that is necessary with an S30 unless you are looking for extreme rear weight bias. Just look at this picture of Z-Gad's car. Despite everything you read on the net about how heavy this engine, when stripped of all the crap and left with just the alt and replacing that horrendous and heavy TT setup, there is little weight difference compared to an L28et. A simple relo of the battery to the rear makes a big difference.

Pull the valve cover, pull the #1 plug, put a finger over the plug hole and rotate the engine until you feel compression on your finger and both valves are closed. Will not tell you #1 TDC spot-on but will get you close and assured you have #1.

YIKES!! Almost better off making custom brackets since the setup only needs the alt and a/c compressor.

Only the a/c and alt but the PS is still there to keep the belt standard. The engine is getting a single turbo that uses a log-style pass side manifold and the turbo is going to interfere with the accessories. No, not my car.

Thanks for the replies guys. That is what I am looking for except that it requires all Corvette accessories and having to buy a Corvette compressor and alternator makes it impractical and pricey. Any other cars?

Anyone know what car had an LT1 with all the accessories on the drivers side? I am in need of a drivers side accessories bracket.

What year?

Wrong! That is not the curb weight, but the gross vehicle weight.

Oh Boy! Orlando Speedworld will never be the same :D

What is your HP goal and what do you plan on doing with the car? You realize the power potential of a 2JZ with a GT42, 280 cams, 35psi and 9000 RPMs?

"No displacement for displacement"........BUNK! You cannot make generic statements like that. Do not confuse displacement with HP. It's not how much displacement you have but how much you can stuff in that displacement. Perfect example: early 80s Corvette 350ci had 202hp, early 00s Corvette 350ci had 354hp, 07 911 215ci (n/a) has 355hp! There absolutely is a replacement for displacement - efficient components or forced-induction. Dont forget that a turbo engine has the potential to stuff an additional equivalent of its displacement into the original displacement for every 14.7psi boost. Sound confusing? That means an RB26 at 14.7psi has the potential to stuff 5.2L into its 2.6L displacement. At 29.4psi, it is up to 7.8L packed into 2.6L displacement. Obviously, the 7.8L intake charge is compressed, then the compression stroke compresses it even more. Ignition, BANG, big HP from smaller displacement. So, like I said, its not what the displacement is but how much you stuff into that displacement before you light the candle.

Excuse me, have you tried 14mmx1.5?

Lots of info on the r154 swap here: http://www.2jzswap.com