Scottie-GNZ

Damn! He is good.

Awesome! Let's hope you come down as part of a caravan HINT, HINT

....and you would have no excuse for not coming to the next SEZ Good luck.

Curious to know myself. My guess would be a N/A Stage II V6.

Make sure when you are calculating MPH/RPM through the traps, you remember to factor in converter slip. He is using a TH-350 which has no lockup so while thrid gear is theoretically 1:1, a loose converter with a 10% slip will make that 3.90 more like 4.29.

Flame away all you want guys, but the Datsun/Nissan L6 is not an economical engine.

You gotta own and drive a 911 to really appreciate one.

Grumpy, are your wheels bare or coated aluminum? I know some aluminum cleaners are made specific for one or the other. Sounds like a great solution but looking to not destroy the coating.

Yes, I believe the on/off differential of 20* is too much but it is a non-adjustable thermal switch so I will have to try something different.

I searched but could not find exactly what i am looking for. Hopefully I can get answers from people in the know and not just guessing. No offense to anyone. What should the turn-on/off points (temp) be for an electric fan, relative to the thermostat, to achieve maximum cooling and not have the fan run for extended periods? IOW, when should the fan turn on relative to the thermostat opening? For sake of discussion, it is a 180*F thermostat. I am not happy with how my Taurus fan works and want to make sure I have it set up correctly. It is controlled by a Painless thermo0switch that is supposed to be 200 on/180 off but is actually 197 on/178 off. Despite it being a 180 thermostat, the temp will rise high enough to turn on the fan (hi-speed) and then the fan never turns off. On occasion the temp will even rise to 200 and stay there. It is not even the hot season in FL yet.

Validates the SEZ organizers selection of your car as their favorite S30 at SEZ8. Congrats

I bought (wife bought me) a Direct Lift model HR1-8000, 2-post, 8000# as the model # implies. Heaviest car I have and will probably go on the lift is the M3. Only had it 6 months but it is really great. Total cost was a tad under $2K delivered and professionally installed, but I got a break on the install from a friend of a friend. You always think you can do everything yourself but after watching and helping, I am glad I did not try to save a few $$ on the installation. Also recommend you get it with 220V. Paid for itself the first time I did not have to lay on the creeper and have the wife listen to my creaking bones and my pissing and moaning

When it comes to performance tires, wider/bigger is not always better. Its the compound that matters. A 295 monster radial street tires is going to have less grip than a 235 or 255 DR or a 26x7 slick. Just ask Garrett and Hoke. MOF, I believe JnJ is only running a 28x7 or 28x8 slick.

Hate to tell you this, but I agree with Pop N Wood. You are getting coolant in the crankcase and most likely a head gasket.

When you are talking about and comparing 60' times, you do have to be cognizant of the HP that the car is putting down. Cutting a good 60' takes traction and HP. Now, if you ask the guys on here who have gone in the 1.30s, ie, JnJ, Dr Hunt, Z-Gad, Turbo Meister, myself and I apologize if I omitted someone else, you will probably get all different answers on what works for them. The one thing in common is that they are (were) all running automatics and slicks/ET Streets. Of all those Z-cars listed, mine probably had the least HP but I had the C4 IRS and really worked hard on perfecting the launch to make up for the "low" HP. With both the Z IRS and C4, my focus was on quick rebound and slow compression in the front and the opposite in the rear. This gives quick weight transfer and does not unload the rear tires too soon. Only way to do that is with adjustable shocks and I used F&R Illuminas on the Z and a coilover/adjustable shocks in the rear on the C4. Lots of debate on squat and I will not start that debate again. I looked at squat as weight transfer and took advantage of it. I used to launch the Z with the C4 IRS at 4900 off the t-brake, drag the bumper and cut mid-1.30s. 4900 does not sound like much until you realize I shifted at 5700 As for stifness, I ran 180# springs in the rear and on the RX7 with the stock IRS, I run 120# QA1s. It also depends on whether you are running off a t-brake or footbrake. The t-brake will induce dramatic squat soon as the car moves and the footbrake will load the rear suspension as you are footbraking. Since I footbrake the RX7 I run soft springs. Now understand that is what worked for me. Some guys go to extremes to completely eliminate squat and i guess that also works for them. Ironically, if you are running a manual you have your hands full but I would imagine you set up the suspension as would if you were using a t-brake.

It also helps to have 800+hp.

General rule of thumb is that the wheel width should be no less than 70% of the tire tread width.

vERY, VERY Nice! Congrats on an awesome swap and incredible fabrication.

Very nice! back off the boost a tad the first time you run flat out then bring it up as needed.

Welcome! My guess is north FL. If you are free this weekend, come on up to the SEZ event and you will get to see an awesome RB25 Z and possibly an RB26. If you are lucky, you might get a ride in one or maybe even get behind the wheel.

Sorry, not quite sure I understand what that means.

True. Just make sure you ask the tranny builder not to stick it in too far.

There is no rule-of-thumb that says npsi should make nnnHP. However, if a 383ci engine runs 35psi and only makes 500hp, something is wrong.