Scottie-GNZ

Justin, Thanks! The tank is already under construction.

Somebody buy this car! http://www.v8rx7forum.com/classifieds-buy-sell-trade/43756-gn-powered-rx7-one-kind.html

You have a PM

Congrats! Nice debut. Hope to see you and the car at the next SEZ.

None of the kits listed will work for you. You need to call them, ask for Julio and tell him Scottie referred you. BTW, this is the system Garrett is using (Where you at, Garrett? ) You will need to tell them what your HP goal is (nozzles?), how much boost (2 or 3-bar MAP sensor?) and try to figure out where you will locate the tank to understand what tank might work for you and the length of the steel-braided lines.

I run the complete kit from alkycontrol.com. It uses a modified Shurflo pump, inline filter, all teflon-lined/steel-braided hoses, progressive controller with gain control, manual adjustment to increase pump voltage and low-level warning light. I run M10 and M15 nozzles and have it turn on @ 6#. My IAT, measured at about the center of the intake, is always at or below ambient at full boost thru the traps.

This is for my FC RX7 and it will be located inside the front of fenderwell behind the pass-side flip-up headlight. I have a small tank on top of the I/C that is used to fill the system and will drain into this main tank through one of the bungs on the top. The other bung on the top is for a vent to aid fill-up. The big bung on the bottom will feed the alky pump which is also located in the fenderwell a few inches away. I am currently using a generic plastic overflow bottle that only has a 64oz capacity + 24oz from the filler bottle. I estimate the new tank + the filler bottle bottle will give me a 1+gal capacity. I use about a pint on each pass with the burnout and the 1/4-mile run. I dont street race and that capacity is fine when I go to the track. I am on my 2nd bottle having had one crack on me. Paranoid about the plastic bottle busting and dumping at 130mph or leaking out and leaving me dry at max boost. The tank needs those specific dimensions to fit in the tight confines and dont know if Zs could use such a tank. One of these days turbo Zs will discover the magic of alky-injection

With the 280Z dizzy, I had spark going into the cap. I see that the coil + & -wires go inside the car to an MSD box then out to the dizzy. I swapped in the 280ZX dizzy and connected the coil + to B and coil - to C and now I get no spark at the cap. I also get no voltage on the coil wire going to the dizzy B. I disconnected the coil from the MSD and just to test, went directly from the battery to the coil and saw 9.5V when cranking at the dizzy B but no spark going into the cap. Possible bad coil? Hate to just be swapping in new parts without knowing root cause. Plugs and wires are new, ZX dizzy came off Z-Gad's old L28ET.

Finally got around to messing with this again. It was easy enough to swap the dizzy to the ZX model and I connected the coil + to terminal B and coil - to terminal C. NADA! Same results.

Looking to have a small, simple tank fabricated for a reasonable cost. Tank will be used for methanol so it has to be aluminum or SS, whichever is less expensive. I have included some sketches with approximate dimensions with more exact dimensions to follow if we can strike up a deal. It does not have to be show quality because it will be hidden away. Just has to be leak-proof. You can PM if you prefer to keep it private.

The 4G63 is an awesome engine and good luck with your swap. However, I feel obligated to disagree with your statement or at least make something clear. A 2JZ is "mad loot" if you simply must have a USDM 2JZ-GTE with the 6-spd. After all, it is out of a Supra TT. The alternative is to buy a JDM 2JZ-GTE and use it with the R154 5-spd. A fully dressed JDM 2JZ-GTE with auto tranny can be bought for anywhere between $1600-2000 SHIPPED. You can sell the auto tranny and converter to help pay for the R154 (Supra MKIII 5-spd) and the other pieces for the conversion. The other option is to buy a dirt cheap 2JZ-GE (n/a) and do the necessary mods to run a turbo on it. Better option than a 1JZ, IMHO.

Thanks for the responses guys. Been a little busy to get back on it. It is frigging roasting here and I am trying to get ready to test my car tomorrow night. JM, you are correct. the top pic is what is currently in the car and the bottom pic with the ign module is what I am considering swapping in if it is not something simple as the cap as Rick suggested.

Bear with me here folks, but I need some help with 280Z/ZX distributors. I am trying to help my buddy get his engine fired up. It is an L28 with triples and an early electronic distributor. I have not messed with an OEM distributor since 1942 and the engine is in a kit car so it does not have the OEM wiring harness. The engine makes no attempt to fire. I have spark going into the cap but none at the plugs. To me, the wiring looks suspect but he claims the guy who did the installation drove the car and the engine was fired up every so often while it was being stored for several years. The coil pos & neg goes into a harness that goes inside the car. I have no clue where it goes nor much desire to trace it down. The distibutor has 2 wires, red and green, coming out of it and are connected to a red and green wire coming out of the harness coming from inside the car. I assume red is 12V and green is tach signal. The distributor has a male terminal blade on the vacuum cannister (yellow circle) but nothing is connected to it and seems like nothing has ever been connected to it. I have no idea if it is wired correctly and have to take someone's word that the engine ran but now it makes no attempt to fire. I tried jumping the coil's neg terminal to the blade and connecting the blade to ground and it made no difference. I got another ditributor from Z-Gad but it is a later model with an ignition module on the side of it and 2 blades on top of the ign module labeled "C" & "B". There are 2 wires, red & green, inside the distributor that go into the ign module and I assume 12V and tach signal. My plan is to swap distributors to see if the original is bad, but I have my doubts about the wiring as it is. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

There is so much cr*p on the Internet about the TH400 and mostly from theorist who really do not have a clue. It is extremely heavy. It saps a lot of HP so the car will be slower. Because it was made for American engines, it cannot hold up to the power/RPMs of engines like the 2JZ. Yada, yada, yada. Bottom line is, it weighs 20lbs more than a TH200-4R. No matter how much lower the dyno HP is for an engine with a TH400, that car is always quicker on the dragstrip. The TH400 is the strongest OEM auto tranny, period and requires nothing special to support big-time HP and RPM. A buddy of mine who is a top-notch TH400 expert runs a stock TH400 with a 34-element sprag, upgraded pump and clutches and manual VB behind his destroked Buick StageII V6. The 3.5L engine is pushing 1200 at the wheels and he shifts it at 9200. My TH400 is a TCI unit with a manual VB bought through Summit for all of $992 shipped. Z-Gad's TH400 has nothing special done to it. As for the 2JZ/TH400 adaptor, I am using the kit from Boostwerx, http://www.boostwerx.com. It cost $750 and allows me to use the stock 2JZ starter and stock GM converter. BLKMGK is correct about the 2JZ engine. There is no difference between the automatic, 6-spd, USDM and JDM blocks.

No, auxiliary is correct.

Sorry. Another senior moment http://www.lgmracing.com/lgm-0611-yearinreview.wmv Right around the 1:10-on mark is where you hear it best.

They are having traction problems and they have not even driven the car hard yet! I am shocked that could happen Let's see. You take a FWD car, convert it to RWD, drop in a 7.7L engine with TT, most of it forward of the axis of the front wheels and ...............

Another option is Lou Gigliotti long-tube headers. Check out the pic and video. You can hear the sound pretty good in the video even over that god-awful music. :RANT: Why do people insist on putting loud music on car action videos? :RANT: However, the video does not give the true sound justice. You have to attend a Speed World Challenge race to really appreciate it. If you want to see and hear 180* headers live, attend a TransAm race.

Way To Represent, Jon! Good luck to you and JNJ at Bristol. Jerry, we wish you the best and pulling for you to get through the health issues.

Thanks for the feedback guys. Working on dual Walbros. PITA but I love a new challenge. BTW, if anyone could use a Kenne-Bell Boost-A-Pump, lemme know before I throw it up on e-Bay. It will increase the voltage to the pump by 50% up to to a max of 17.5V.

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/bosch044.htm See the last sentence of the description.

I run a single Walbro in-tank and need to step up to something that flows more. Simple option is dual in-tank Walbros but plumbing them on the FC hangar is a royal PITA. Another option, though not as good as the dual Walbro, is to replace the Walbro with a single Bosch 044 which should give me another ~25+% flow. I read that if the Bosch is used as an inline and fed by the in-tank Walbro, it will help increase the flow of the Bosch. Can someone please explain how that is possible. Logic says that if the Walbro is feeding the Bosch and the Walbro flows less, that limits the flow of the Bosch. Guess I am wrong but want to understand why.

Nicely done! Couple of things I would suggest. You need to address the expansion/vibration issue mentioned by Mongo510. I also strongly suggest making bracket(s) to support the weight of the turbo, else the headers are going to crack. Have you considered I/C plumbing? You are going to have to reclock the compressor housing probably pointing straight down since there is no way you can a get a 90* turn with 2.5" pipe with such little clearance. Also give strong consideration to the oil feed and drain. Good luck.

CONGRATS I will leave the geezer discussion to you old guys :D

As I stated in my post, "Type in your timeslip". This forum WANTS to believe you and frankly do not really care (at least I dont ) about vids of 600hp dyno pulls. Many a 600hp dynp queens have trouble breaking into the 11s. 11s is well respected here but not worthy of making any claims.