evildky

check your afm connectors, I still don't understand why but if it's stuck it'll shut the pump off after a few seconds go get an inline fuel pressure guage and hook it up and you'll be supized just how great of an investment it is, I am planning on adding one for the interior as well

jump down the the turbo forum and read the stickies, all the info you need is there

I had a similar problem everyone seemd to blame the afm connectors or boost leaks, these were not my problems, turned out to be as manifold pressure rose and the fuel demand got higher the pump cut out, replaced the pump problem solved, just something to check for, I am gonna add a fuel pressure guage inside the cab for any future diagnostics

not sure what part of jersey he is in but, if you have any other issues and you need someone who knows Z's and prolly has all the spares if something gets broken try this guy: ZSpeedAuto@aol.com his name is jonny and just tell him "the duck" told you to contact him, also his number is: 856 672-1099

aw...c'mon I know a lot of you have built motors, just trying to find out what I should and should not spend my money on

I'd be interested in some of the stuff if the price is right, like maybe the sds although you might want to keep it for the RB ? the exhaust (what downpipe are you using with that ?)

so I had a hella sweet smokey second gear burn out a while back and duplicating it has been difficult, trying to just from clutch to brake before it grabs and after it starts to spool, a line lock would make this a bit easier surely many of your drag racers have installed one so here is my question,will one seleniod before the proportioning valve work? it just seems to me the proportioning valve will allow some pressure off the front and apply it to the rears? no? or do I need to put one on each front brake line? this is an early 71 model, so I only have the one piece proportioning valve/distribution block who is using line locks and how did you run yours?

you can also shave the p90 to run on the na motor, you would then need to shim the cam tovers to compensate for cam timing and add thicker lashpads to maintain valve geometry but you could then run it with dishtops, you might be able to adjust the cam enough with one of the other 2 possible cam position but I've never tried that

zzz

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this might or might not work for you but something I have done in the past get a nut larger in diameter than the broken tap, hold the nut with the ground clamp of your welder and start welding the inside of the nut to the end of the broken tap, I know this is difficult and it helps if you can find a fairly this nut but if you get the bugger welded on you can just bask it out with a socket, this of course assuming you have or at least access to a welder but then again if you can dig up an N42 head you'd be better off anyhow, it's the same head but without the sleaving so it flows better and it's tapped for carbs of fuel injection setups, ever has the provision for a mechanicle fuel pump

so I am planning on building a new short block for my car, just a fresh L28ET with a mild overbore as my spare block needs an overbore, the replacement nissan overbore pistons seem to be a bit pricey as in like $120 each, I seem to recall some have has custom forged pistons made for around this cost? also I have heard that upgrading to arp head studs and nuts would be a wise investment, should I invest in the arp rod bolts and main cap bolts as well or will the stockers hold up to years of torture? I am wanting a block that can handle 400hp, with my current combo I am only around 230 acording to my estimated weight and the hp calculator, I am sure it'll take me years to slowly reach the 400hp mark but I'd like to get it up to around 300 in the coming year and I'd hate to have to build the motor twice any other advice before I start buying parts ?

you might considder just removing the muffler for now all together, the only muffler on my car is the little snail shaped thingy hanging off the side of my motor, it's not too loud unles I get on it, a dwonturned pipe at the end would likely make it a bit less obvious

still not working, I never bought into the idea of split fire plugs, seems to me that the spark is gonna go for the closest cleanest single point

yes it'll bolt in, all of those cars had VG30ET motors, as long as your car started life as a turbo they will bolt in, if you car startedas an N/A you'll need the crossmember as well, this is all covered in the FAQ over at Z31, might be why you did not get a responce

I really appreciate the invite, I'd kinda like to see chicago that would be really cool, just be sure to post the info as it comes availalable and I'll try my best to make it of course I seem to have a bit of a fuel issue still and a possible engine rebuild is in my near future, I hope mid 13's isn't as slow up there as it is at SEZ

it's hard to resist a turn of a wrenc or screw or whatever can yield more power, it's just sooo easy to add horsepower it's hard to know when to stop, it takes a lot of discipline to self impose a limit on your boost, I am running 8 psi on my stock junkyard motor now with that little boost controller bagging me for an extra turn or 2 it's very tough to resist I compare it to racing on street tires then switching to race ruber the first time, the race rubber seems to have no limits till you cross the limit then seemingly without warning they brake loose with much more consequence than street rubber you just moved the bar and have no idea where the edge is till you cross it and then it's too late, Nitrous is the same way, very easy to get greedy but once you cross the limit it's gonna cost you

well my junkyard motor is already showing signs of fatigue, I have a rod knocking for a split second at cold start, so I figure I may as well slap together a new short block, and maybe get some custom forged pistons, my question is would I be ill advised to use flat tops? I was playing with the engine calculator and flat tops with the P90 yield an 8 to 1 with the 2mm gasket ? this sounds like safe boost compression to me? and the extra compression should help the turbo spool up a bit quicker ? no? anyone try this or at least have more understanding to explain to me why or why not ?

oops

hit the junkyards, I bought a complete runing when it hit 83 zxt for $350, some have gotten theirs for less and some for more, your current block is either an early L28 with dishtop pistons which is ok to use for the turbo, or it is a flat top that I don't think you can use (at least not with that head) that head is very low volume and with a flat top block yields over 10 to 1 comp ratio, not turbo friendly at all, your better off if you can find a parts car and pull everything you need including the motor

z

the MSD FPR can go way higher than the stated max I think they said 45psi, you have to remove the locknut, that keeps you from threading it in further, I had mine up to 75 psi at idle, kinda by accident but the point is that it can be set higher than they advertize, you just gotta remove the locknut from the adjuster so you can thread it in further