80LS1T

Ok thats what I though. I also asked an "older" technican at work yesterday about this, he also said just as long as its before the regulator it will be fine. So I will be mounting a guage off the other outlet port on the fuel filter! Thanks guys! Guy

Yes you can use the JTR kit to mount the LT1. The LT1 has the same mounting as a GEN 1 SBC. Guy

Holy bejesus! I agree with Tim, that looks like waaaaaaaay too much rust repair that is needed! Not to mention trying to piece together the interior. That free car is going to cost waaaaaaay more than say $2000-$3000 good to great condition 280ZX will in the long run. Trust me if you plan to keep the interior of that car(not go full custom) the car is already not even close to free. Interior pieces are very expensive if you want new or close to new condition parts. But if your just going to put a full custom interior, fiberglass body panels, and a tube frame under it............then I say you got a winner! Guy

Check to make sure your BROWN fusable link is not burnt up. There is an IGNITION relay located on the passenger side next to the glove box on the bottom of the A-Pillar. There are 4 relays there. It is the one located closest to the firewall and above another one. First things first though, Do you have power to the "S" terminal while cranking? Guy

Ok lets get somethings straight before you go out and spend money you dont need to....... 1.) it will not even crank over now 2.) you have power coming from the battery to the LARGE terminal on the starter 3.) You have a known good battery(just because it reads 12.6v doesnt mean its ok, it has to pass a load test)(when you load test a battery it should not drop below 9.6V, however you cant test this with out a battery load tester) 4.) Do you have power to the "S" terminal on the starter while cranking? I am going to be out in the garage tomorrow(sunday) working on my car. I will get out the Haynes manual and have a look at the wiring for the starting system. I dont know how much rewiring you've done but I will let you know if there are some relays, fuses, or fusible links that you should be checking. Guy

I am using the MSA mounting kit in my 280ZX LT1 conversion. The only reason I bought the kit was because at the time I did not have a welder to make the mounts. For $235 I could have made 10 sets of these mounts! I too think the "instructions" are absolute crap! To be honest though I didnt really plan on using them anyways, all I wanted was the mounts. Those instructions are intended for someone swapping in a older carbed SBC with a very basic set up. Atleast thats what I thought of them. I think it would be funny to have one of their "techs" to try to swap a SBC into a car with those instructions! LOL I bet they couldnt do it! I cant say I've hand any issues with the mounts them self though. Then seem to made well. I couldnt use the tranny mount though because I am using a T56 and not a 700R4. So I sold that to another member for $20. If you just want to mounts then use the mounts and burn the instructions cause thats about all they are good for. Guy

Oh come on you didnt take her for a run with just the headers on? I did with my car, now that was fun!!!!!! Loud but fun! Nice to hear the project is getting closer and closer to "done" Guy

Thats just way too broad of a questions. Wiring is one thing that is way to hard to explain what you need and what you dont need over the internet. I would do just what Tony said and install the engine and then decided what you need and dont need. It really depends on how much of the stock sensor you will be using. I went though the harness in my 280ZX while the engine was out but I can read wiring diagrams pretty good so I eliminated about 75% of the stuff I knew I wasn't going to need before I installed the new engine. I still had to go back over it once the new engine was in and eliminate more. I guess if your not sure then you should just leave it be for now untill the new engine is in and then start cutting. Guy

Mas280, has proven that you can get 400RWHP out of an LS1 with basically just a cam. Thats 400 reliable HP with an extremly broad TQ curve. I say come over to the dark side!!!!!! Guy

I received a reply to my question about this today from TC............. Hope that clears it up for anyone else wondering the samething! Guy

John, I hope you are taking this constructive critizism in a good nature. I did not intend to turn this into a "yeah it will work.......no it wont work" thread. All I was trying to do is say "hey that radiator might be a bit much" thats all. I know you are a new member so please dont think we are bashing your idea. We are just speaking from experience thats all. If you do indeed run it in your car please post up the results of how it cools! Guy

Loved the part about using the serach function first! LOL If only we could get the newbies to do it! LOL Guy

WOW Tim talk about a fast response! I think I will just to be sure. Guy

Ok Wheelman, I take it the USB to serial converter is just want is sounds like. I want to get a newer computer because I plan to use it at home too now. So I was looking at getting a new, faster, and nicer computer than originally planned. I just want to make sure I can still use if to tune my car though. So if the computer I buy has a USB port but no serial port can I just buy that converter and use it like originally planned with an older computer? Thanks, Guy

Personally I think its over kill. I have a Griffin 26"x19" 2 core radiator in my 280ZX with my LT1 SBC and its cools it just fine. I have never ever had the temp go over 210*. I have a CSI electric water pump, Taurus 1 speed fan(I thought I was buying a 2 speed at the time but the 1 speed has worked without issues so Im not switching to a 2 speed)I think you should sell it for some BIG $$$ and buy a 2 or 3 core radiator and a Taurus 2 speed fan. This set up is a proven winner and is fairly inexpensive. Just out of curiousity how much was that radiator and what was its original intended use before you got it........big block? Guy

Ok I am installing new 3/8" hardline, -6AN 37* fittings, new fuel pump(in stock location), and new cartridge style fuel filter(on the firewall). Now with the new lines I do not have a port to check fuel pressure. If I install a guage on the fuel filter(it has 2 inlet ports and 2 outlet ports, and I am only using 1 of each) will it still read the same pressure as the fuel rail? Or do I need the guage to be after the regulator? The regulator is on the return side of the fuel rail on my LT1. I guess what I am getting at is does it matter where you take a pressure reading if the regulator is up on the rail? The way I am thinking is that it wont matter.....but am I right? Thanks, Guy

You need either 2 years of in the work field experiece or 2 years of tech school + 1 yera of work experiece. 2 Years of school counts as 1 year of work experiece. You will need your school to sign off saying you attended there for X amount of months/years and/or you will need your boss at work to sign off saying you have been working there for X amount of months/years. Guy

This is why I am holding off on buying a Trans AM(LS1 powered), cause I know damn well I wont be able to keep my hands off of it! I'll just drive the wheels off my 96' Dakota and save money in the process with no car payments and low insurance premiums! Sorry Mike I agree with the rest of the guys.........LEAVE THE BOX ALONE AND FINISH THE HULK! gUY

Hehehehe......nice wine rack too! LOL Guy

First off this is not the drivetrain forum. Please post in the correct forum when asking questions about a specific subject. Search for "R230" its basically Nissans equivalant to the Ford 9"(close in size anyway, not sure if its quite as builtproof?, none the less its one tough rearend). The question is do you want to keep the independent rear suspension or go to a solid axle? Guy

Well I figured out a way to do it...... First I wrapped the SS line 2-3 times with duct tape(didnt have any electrical tape sitting around). Then I took your standard pipe cutter(the kind where you have a small disc and run it around the pipe and keep tightening it down until your through the pipe) and I ran that around SS line until it was pretty much cut all the way through. By doing this I also made the SS line kind of twist it self tighter. Now I used the hose cutting pliers I got at Home Depot and cut the rest of the way through the SS line. Now I removed the duct tape and took the fitting end and spun it on in the direction that I was spinning the pipe cutter so that it followed the way that the SS line was now wrapped towards. It helped that I used a wrench to spin it on and press on the fitting at the same time. Once it was on all the way I just installed the other end of the fitting and walaha! DONE! It worked for me both times I tried it tonight with out any problem. I hope this info helps someone! Thanks for all the help guys, I used a little bit of what everyone did and combined them into my own way and I got great results! Guy

Oh and you could eliminate the starter being the problem by using a remote starter set up. I have one but have never used it. Its basically just a button with 2 wires coming out of it. Just hook one end up to the "S" terminal and one to the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid and push the button and it should crank over and start. If this works then you know you have an issue somewhere else, if it doesnt then you know either the starter motor is bad or the starter solenoid is bad. Guy

You should only have power to the "S" terminal while cranking. Now do you have power coming out the low pressure oil switch while cranking? Maybe sometimes the switch is stuck and not closing the contacts and causing a no start condition? Guy

Well I went to Home Depot tonight and found a set of cutters that look similar to the ones above only they are about 6" shorter. I used them tonight and they cut through the hose pretty cleanly. However, I couldnt stay out in the garage to mess with them since my GF was over and we were planning in spend some quality time together! Hopefully I can get out in the garage tomorrow and really try it out! Oh and is it ok to leave some tape on the end and then insert the SS hose into the fitting? Guy

I know this is an old thread but I am in the process of upgrading my fuel system to -6AN SS lines, 3/8" hard line, new MSD pump, and cartrige style fuel filter. I too am having one hell of a time getting the SS braided lines to cut clean. I tried the tape method but it wasnt working for me! David, where can I get a pair of those hose cutters? I might try cutting it with a dremel first? Any other things that I should try? Guy