80LS1T

Hmmm, well that sucks! I guess I should have done a little more research before I went and bought these. I dont know if Im ready to switch over to coilovers yet. The suspension in my car is already new as it is. I just put new struts, springs, bushings, and sway bars in 2 years ago. Maybe I will just wait for a deal on coil overs to come along.... Thanks for all the help! Guy

What does AFAIK mean? Do you mean I cant use these plates with regular struts? Guy

You should have no issue using the pistons. I didnt get anything special when I rebuilt my LT1. Just plain old 350 pistons .030" over. But from looking at your list of parts I would say you pretty much have to buy everything for an LT1 to rebuild it. The only things on that last that are a for sure maybe are the pistons and rods. You can probably use the rocker arms but you might need different valve covers if thay are too big. 12:1 is pretty high compression even for an LT1. Is the 12:1 for a 58cc head or was that 12:1 figured for the older engine? Most older heads have bigger chambers, thats why I ask because if that was figured with say a 64cc chamber then your compression will deffinently be too high with 58cc chambers. Unless this is a drag car and your going to use a mixture of race gas? Guy EDIT.... Are you talking about an LT1(92'-97') or an LT-1(not sure on the years but Im thinking 70's)?

I just notice that I lost about 500 of my posts. Does that mean that all those threads are gone? Guy

No I mean the studs that stick out of the top plate on the struts now. Do I just cut them off?

Thanks, I think I will have to call GC to get some of those nuts. Im still a little confused on what to do with the 3 original mounting studs on the top of the strut plate. The part on my plates that moves looks like yours Jmortensen. The one I showed above has 3 holes in the plate. Mine dont have those 3 holes. Guy

That plate I showed above is not actually my plate. I just borrowed it from the Ground Control website. I bought them used off of ebay. Jmorteson, that nut looks kind of fancy. Will I need a nut like that? Cause I didnt get them with the plates. Guy

Yeah I still used the same u-joints that are used for the 2.25" adapter. All I did was have the pilot hole in the differental flange enlarged from 2.00" to 2.25". Everything else is the same. Guy

So Cody, which kit are you going with for the rear? I didnt quite understand which kit you were refering to when you said "I just got this kit and would like to see if anyone had any ideas of what setting to give the alignment guy." Guy

Who me? So does the top of the strut just go into that hole in the middle and then put the nut on over it? What about the 3 original mounting bolts? Do I just cut those off? Thanks, Guy

Poundz, I know you got screwed on your deal but I dont think you should try to scare people from buying things off of ebay or on here. I have never had a problem buying things off of ebay or here on HZ. I also think ebay is a very reliable place to buy stuff, however there are people who will screw you but thats what the feedback system is for. If you get screwed on ebay its probably your fault for not checking their feedback. Its usually very obvious if the person is honest or not. Guy

What kind of engine is it? Guy

Yeah like Dave said you could buy a convered SBC Z for $5000 pretty easy. Plus you will probably get more for that $5000 than you would building one for $5000. Thats because when trying to sell a convered car you will more than likely not get what you have into it. Something serious to consider. Guy

I just bought some camber plates for my 280ZX for the front. Now I bought them used so I dont have any instructions on how to install them. So I was wondering if you guys could give me some info/pics on how these things go on! Also as you can see the center is offset to one side(to the right on this one)so obviously there must be a left and right. Which side should the "thicker" side go to, front or back? Thanks, Guy

Thats all I have to say about that! GUy

Screw the painless harness. Get a subscription to "ALL DATA ONLINE" for $25 and just follow the wiring diagrams. They even seperate the different sections of the engine harness into differnet wiring diagrams. Like they have the "ignition circuits" all on one diagram, "fuel circuits" on another, and the PCM pinouts even have the descptions of what they go to. Trust me its $25 well spent. Thats what I did with my "new" LT1 harness. I had a painless harness in my car that I bought from another member and it was a POS in my opinion. The O2 sensors werent even wired to the right banks! I was not impressed with it. Deleting the unwanted wiring from the harness does take time but it is very easy with a wiring diagram. I thought it was going to be much harder than it actually was. Guy

No dont quote me on this but that cross member might be hanging lower than you think. I had a mount similar to that for my tranny mount and it hung way too low. My car is lowered about 1.5". Have you lowered the car to see what kind of ground clearance you will have? I dont know how much of a difference there is between a gen 1 body and gen 2 body as far as ground cleance. Just a heads up. Looks great but I would check ground clearance before going any further. Guy

Thats the same thing I say when someone tries to call the SRT-4 a cool car, Im like ya but its still a Neon! Same with the Sentra, still an econo box. Yeah it can make lots of power but at what cost? Plus the Z's trouble shooting is easy since your still close to stock with the engine set up. The Sentra will require more in depth knowledge of electronics and probably a scanner of some sort. Plus what kind of workmanship did this guy do when swapping in the turbo? Is he a hack or is he very neat and organized? This will come into play when you are trying to track down a strange drivabilty problem that you cant fix on your own and have to pay a shop by the hour to fix. Guy

Bling bling or not those guages are friggin awesome! If I didnt already have a nice set of Autometers in my car I would deffinetly think about how to come up with the money for those babies! Although those would cost twice as much as I paid for my set of gauges, but they look like they might be worth it! Guy

Yeah he lives about 20 minutes from me. I have seen his car up close. Very nice. He posts here once and a while. Im pretty sure he posted something about his car being in this mag. recently(a few weeks ago.) Guy

One other thing to consider is with newer OBD2 systems, it will throw a code for "o2 stays at center" so just putting a resistor inline will more than likely not work. I have no idea how those O2 simulators work? Guy

While those heatshrink connectors are ok, I would recommed doing exactly what Tim said and use JY weather pack connectos where you might need to disconnect the harness and solder everything else and use heatshrink tube over the soldered connection. I personally dont care for using electrically tape when I dont have to. It is a PITA when you want to remove it(IMHO) and it just doesn't look as nice as heatshrink tube does. Thats just my personal preference though! Guy

Ok, I finally found my camera and got some pics for you.... Picture #1 is where I cut the gas pedal into 2 pieces and welded it back together. I also had to cut the actual pedal part off of the rod and move it so that it wouldnt hit the floor too soon. Picture #2 is how the gas pedal looks in the car. Picture #3 is the bracket that I made for the end of the Lokar throttle cable that is closest to the firewall. That bracke bolts on to where the original throttle bracket went. I just cut off part of the old one and welded on a piece that would hold the new cable. Picture #4 is where I mounted the other end of the throttle cable. It actually mounted right up to the old throttle bracket for the LT1. I had to ream out the throttle "cam" to get the cable end to fit into the "cam" and move freely. No big deal with a dremel! Also as you can see the old "ball joint" from the original throttle cable is screwed onto the end of the new Lokar unit. It fits like a glove and makes hooking up the cable to the gas pedal extremly easy. I hope this will help give you an idea on how to modify the linkage/cable assembly. Guy

Looking good! I will soon be reinstalling my LT1/T56 into my 280ZX with the "new" 95' MAF harness. I dont mind the wiring part but it can get very boring after a short period of time. Did you "warm" up the engine at all while it was out? I know Tim didn't. Guy

Well I was going to post some pics but I cant seem to find my digital camera! As soon as I find it I will post some pics for your viewing pleasure! So hopefully some time tomorrow night I will post some pics. Guy