80LS1T

That fan is also used to help cool the motor once it engine is turned off. I had one on my 80' 280ZX. People would always come up to me after I shut my car off and tell me that it was running.....then I would tell them that its just a fan to cool the engine down once its turned off. No way no how will that little electric motor push enough air to provide positive pressure in the intake aka boost. Electric superchargers are a joke and the only guys who actually use them are the ricers. There is no real cheap way of using a supercharger. Guy

I was browsing Ebay last night and came upon a SPEC stage 3 cluch set up with a Fidanza alluminum flywheel for $450. The clutch has 200 miles on it and the flywheel is brand new! Now I know the flywheel is about $450 new and the clutch set up new is about $480-$500. I have been waiting for a deal like this to come along for atleast 6 months and all my waiting has finally paid off! Im soooooooooooo happy right now! I though for sure I was going to have to drop atleast $800 on a new clutch/flywheel set up! Guy

We have to do that at work when we are torquing down a cylinder head on a diesel. First we TQ it to specs then loosen them all up. Now you should be doing this on a bone cold engine so that you dont warp anything. Just loosen them in reverse order of the head torquing sequence and you will be fine. Once they are all loose just torque them down like you did the first time. Guy

Congrats!!!! Guy

I have some rough measurements for them as far as spacing is... drivers side is about 3" and the passenger side is about 2.25" I have some pics on my site too... http://www.datsun-280zx-lt1.com/SpecialPartsandMounts.html Guy

Did the R200's even come with u-joint type halfshafts in the 280ZX's? I thought that the R180's only had the u-joint type halfshafts? Here's a couple of links that should help.........I just typed in "neapco adapter" into the search engine.... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=72355&highlight=neapco+adapter http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82276&highlight=neapco+adapter Guy

No offense to you Mike but doesnt it seem kind of silly to offer a header for a LS1 with out an O2 bung? Of course not every swap is exactly the same so placement of the o2 sensor could be slightly different for each car? Is that why its not already installed? Guy

Yeah a cracked pressure plate could cause a that kind of noise. Or a collapse lifter could cause a knocking noise. Can you run it with the valve covers off? Make sure all the rockers are moving about the same amount. I heard from a guy at a Chevy dealership that they are having problems with the 4.3L lifters. Just a heads up. You could call a local dealership and ask them what to look to see if your lifters are junk? Guy

Yeah haveing the mounts slotted would deffinetly be nice. I know I could move my motor back about 2" no problem. Not to mention that would help with header clearance. I think if my motor was set back 2" the BBK header might fit on the drivers side? Of course Im using an LT1 so there is no issue with a distributor hitting the firewall. I dont know how much I could drop the motor down though. There isnt much clearance as there is with the MSA mounts. I think a 1/2" would be it? I know I could use 2" of clearnce up front by the fan! Right now there sure isnt much! Guy

ALLDATA is like Michele or Chiltons. Its an online service manual basically. You pay $25 per year for the first vehicle you subscribe to then its $15 for every vehicle there after just as long as you keep 1 supscription up to date. Otherwise you start over with the $25 first vehicle fee. Its really a great manual if you ask me. I personally hate Michele's manual. Its very easy to use and they have very good wiring diagrams. Heres the link.... http://www.alldata.com/ Go to the "DIY" links. wheelman, I wouldnt see why you couldn't use a 9 pin serial connector? If you never plan to hook it up to a standard scanner then I would say thats the way to go. Guy

I just emailed you hanomon. As long as its an OBD1 type connector I'll take it! Thanks for the help Tim on the Tunercat questions! Guy

So what is that $850 package all about? And what are deffinition files? Thanks, Guy

I started to delete the unneccesary stuff from my 95' LT1 harness tonight. So far its going great. With the help of ALLDATA online this is going to be a cake walk! They pretty much give you a diagram for what the engine needs to run and what is needed for A/C, emissions, guage sensors(for a stock LT1 TA....I have my own guage sensors) and other nonessential stuff. Im glad I didnt buy a painless harness for like $600! I still have to buy a data link connector and a pair of O2 sensors for sure. I wont know if the sensors I have on the engine now are the same as the 95 till I get the harness test fitted on it. So how much is the TunerCat software? I see a lot of different prices on their site but I dont know what I need? Tim? Mas280? Thanks, Guy

Did a 1987 300ZXT even come with out a LSD? I thought the LSD was part of the "turbo package"? Someone correct me if Im wrong? Guy

Yeah its pretty much the same attitude that Camaro drivers have too. I personally like pretty much any car just as long as you can back the talk up that your dishing out. I dont what to hear about "your buddies car, who can beat everyting" I just want to hear about your car and what it can do with the mods that it has right now! Not "the mods that your going to do..........some day!" I really like the looks of the new Mustang. I even like the last body style too. Im not really a Ford guy but I can appretiate good designing when I see it. And there is no way that your going to get a sub 10sec car for what a Mustang costs! Just tell him that! Or tell him to bring his 9.8sec car down to the track and if it even runs in the 10's you'll give him your car but if it doesnt he has to give you $500! LOL Guy

Well I know that the 92-93' LT1 PCM is different in many ways than the 94-95' PCM. The main reason I am switching over is so that I can tune the car myself. Its too expensive to go to a dyno and get a print out of my A/F ratio and send in my computer and then have them tune it again. Then go back to they dyno to see how it is now. And then do it all over again to get everything right. Plus I just want to learn how to do it! I have the "new" harness now and I will start looking at it this week to see what I need to do. I know I will need a OBD1 data connector(the one that goes under the dash) and I know I will need eliminate some of the connectors that are on the harness now. I just hope that some of the sensors are the same as the ones I have on the engine now! I really dont want to buy all those sensors! Guy

Ok what happened to all the posts about editing a factory engine harness? I dont think I will have a problem figuring it out with a wiring diagram(I have one) but I would still like some info/tips? Guy

Just because the car only has 19,000 miles on it doesnt mean teh springs arent saging from sitting, brake lines, fuel lines, coolant lines all rotten, rust is still an issue unless this car was stored in a heated/temperature controlled garage for 18 years. I hope Im wrong about this though. Either way its sounds like you found a real "diamond in the rough" I wish I had upgraded my car with the body/paint, wheels, and interior before I started the motor swap. Now Im trying to do it all at once and its hurting the ole pocket book! LOL Live and learn I guess. If I was just doing a motor swap my car would be fine the way it is but Im doing a full on resteration/conversion. Everything will be new or like new. On $200 a week you really cant plan on too many serious mods. Oh and dont bother trying to make a N/A L6 fast on a budget I dont think its possible on a budget! LOL Guy

Bashing on the balancer is not a good idea for the thrust bearing in side by the crankshaft. Just a heads up. It can mess up that thrust bearing if you hit too hard. I have too broken an installer and it sucks big time! Just lots of putzing around to get the broken piece out! I like Tims idea....hot/cold with some lube!LOL Guy

There is no aftermarket intake for the LT1 because stock one is pretty darn good! The reason LT1 heads are specific to the LT1 is because the LT1 is a reverse cooled engine......so the coolant goes threw the heads first then teh block. So this enables it to run higher compression with out detonation. I think thats in the eye of the beholder....personally EFI is much easier to me just because Im much younger than most of the guys on here and I didnt grow up with Carbs so I dont know much about them. EFI for me is much easier to diagnose and fix. Guy

I am using an LT1 with a T56 and my 6th gear ratio is .62:1. I have found that with the 3.54 R200 that 1st is still very useful an so is 6th. I cant remember exactly what RPM Im cruise at with it in 6th at 60mph but it was around 1500rpms. I usually only used 6th for highway use though because my engine likes to run better/smoother at about 1800-2000rpms cruiseing(doesnt bog down as much) Im not sure if that because of the cam or what though(LT4 HC). I too love to shift gears and you cant beat the stock strength of the T56! Guy

I just saw an auction on Ebay for a set of headers made by BBK for the 93-95 LT1(should still fit an older SBC though). The drivers side header sure does look a lot like the header that I made!..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33631&item=7944448133&rd=1 Even if you bought these and it didnt work you could resell them! Someone with a SBC 280ZX and the gearbox style of P/S system should try these. I doubt the passenger side will work though? But you might be able to sell that one on a LT1 forum? Guy

Man I cant wait till the next WI Z meet! I want a ride in that bad boy!! Looking very very nice so far Mat! Keep the updates and pics coming! Guy