Lazeum

No I did not. I used the spring washers to reproduce what Datsun/Nissan has done before but it is also optional. Tha main issue was to source the bolts, even in France where metric sizes are the standard.

The title was self explanatory, too bad, the search engine is not able to locate the thread easily... For your info, I found a mistake related to bolt on service manuel, torque required for the small M8 bolts holding the ball joint on the front control arm is wrong. I did not snap my bolts during reassembly process but some of my friends did. So I've removed the bolts on my car since then, scrap them even if they were looking good & put new ones instead. If I recall correctly, FSM asks for 45N.m while torque on M8 10.9 bolts should be around 25N.m (or Datsun put ARP bolts )

Gollum, the color I've chosen for detonation has nothing to do with its severity, I've done it this way because it looks nicer Color transition brings confusion, I did not think about that. My bad. The chart is true at one only specific condition. When I said: "Since the chart above is showing only one state of the engine (given RPM, Temperature, engine load, etc.)" I meant that one particular chart exists for each unique condition (i.e. every cell in a timing map for instance with defined AFR + all the intermediate conditions in between cells). Do you suggest also that torque or detonation value would not be so repeatable? it will hardly be repeatable since other inputs might affect the reaction. That's why, I believe, modern car such as Evos (the only modern EFI car I've played with) for instance have a complex formula for engine loads. Looking again at my chart, I still think detonation threshold should be horizontal, here's how I see the physics behind: 1- going from low timing to higher one before detonation, pressure will increase with ignition timing 2- ...until it reaches too high comp to avoid detonation 3- too high timing, past max potential torque, ignition occurs too early; pressure from ignition increases + additional pressure from piston motion is enough to create compression & detonation. Still, energy from combustion will try to slow down the piston. As a result, you loose work & gain calories for the engine. 4- too high timing, past detonation threshold, ignition occurs way too early, pressure from ignition will increase but additional pressure from piston motion is not enough to create enough compression. Energy from combustion will try to slow down the piston even more. As a result, you loose more work & gain more calories for the engine. This is how I see the chart. If what I'm saying is wrong, I'll be glad to hear a different version (even if Tony is the one doing it )

When I tried to explain to some of my friends how they should think about tuning, I've made a small sketch to explain them the relashionship of detonation versus torque & timing. I come up with the following chart: I've seen this chart in many tuning books & I believe it is easy to understand the concept of MBT & why more timing isn't always good. To avoid detonation we can clearly see that timing can help but we also see that some torque/power are left on the table. The smart move is then to alter the physics behind detonation to push the detonation threshold above max torque achievable: with quench, gas quality/properties, cooling, head shape, air flow, vaporization, etc. Some of the item from the list above also change max torque achievable so everything is linked together. If detonation threshold is above max torque, it also shows that some engine will never ping no matter what since they are designed conservatively Since the chart above is showing only one state of the engine (given RPM, Temperature, engine load, etc.) , it also helps to understand why tunable ignition is a nice thing to have. The main question to me how to tune an engine & to avoid detonation? how to do it without having to get he engine to detonate "a little" to know the limits? I've made a detcan, ping noise is not always obvious... This is theory however, I have yet to play on a dyno & play around with it to destroy engine

Check also how the brake fluid behaves in your MC tanks. It could also related to issue with rear brakes. You should not see the level moving too much when pressing the brake pedal. it can already gives some directions about where to look to fix the issue. If you can slam the pedal to the floor, you've got a leak somewhere if you bled them well before. Can you see some drops on the floor? It could help you also localize the leak.

Indeed but it is still hard to find info on TPS mounting solution for DCOE. They all got new stuffs from Spain!

The TPS sensor you're showing me is made for later DCOE. With 18's there's no tab to mount the support. The only support available is the one for the bolt to synch the carbs. Instead, I'll use a BMW E46 TPS I've got for cheap with a pattern easy to reproduce: the same diameter as the rod for linkage with only a flat. I should be able to make a quick bracket, shape the rod end and be good to go. Regarding the fan, I believe I've already got a ZX fan. I've got room but some extra won't be bad. The fan is also not such in good shape, I'm suspecting it to start failling (white'ish areas start to show up on corners). I've already a thermoswitch hooked up, relay ready and the whole wiring done for the e-fan project since I've got already one in addition to the regular unit. So it should be easy enough to do.

This is what I would have guessed I have an agressive cam, I'm going for TPS but to install it could be challenging. It gives me a project for this winter. I'll see then how it goes. If I'm really brave, I'll try afterwards MAP & use TPS as correction if required. I need to start wiring everything first. I'm also getting rid of the stock fan to get some room for VR sensor. Fun project in perspective! Thanks for your quick reply

Leon, How did you connect the MJ on your setup? did you use MAP or TPS? Do you have any close up view from your setup? I'm going for TPS installed at the end of the accel rod linkage. With my old DCOE 18, there isn't any tab available for easy install on throttle shaft + throttle shaft thread is a pain, it is M7 and it would require an custom adapter to fit the TPS. I also have a MAP but for now I don't expect to use it. Thanks!

It looks great - I'll be a little picky but it is a little too big for my taste for the quarter window

That's exactly what I was thinking about. Something to stick on my quarter window & still be able to see thru it. Glad to see you can ship oversea Regarding ideas, I'll try to think about it...

I believe you need to think about how camber, caster & toe will change according to Z height (up/down). Benefit of double A-arm is used to better keep control of camber & other components in accordance to Z height: less positive camber are rebound & less negative camber in jounce. It is linked with arm length relashionship between top one & bottom one. You could also control how the nose of the car will dive or not during braking & accel phases with position of hard points locations. You'll affect toe a lot also with any setup, it also has to be taken into consideration. Short tie rod asm (inner+outer) will affect your toe more than a long asm unit with Z height variation. Damper/spring connection could also affect the behavior of the car. Mark Olston uses in his build a front suspension from Corvette (C5 or C6, they are very similar). I think it is smart move since you already know it works well. You also know it will be up to the task regarding stress since it is capable for +3000lbs 600hp car.

I would be in for a hoodie, decal. thanks for the idea Last run I was part of (made by Justin/ZForce) came out great. After 2 years, I see no significant wear on them. Regarding the decal, could it be transparent & to be stuck on the window from the inside? Regarding the graphics for the hoodie or shirt, can we expect some different concepts? a Datsun logo somewhere? I know it will create diversity, therefore complexity so I'm just asking! Last question, would you ship oversea?

I've seen the pics before looking at your comment, I told to myself: "she looks like mine". So I guess we're on the same page I was hesitating between 15" or 16" RB wheels some years ago, at the end, they both look good. Color looks exactly the same. Mine is supposed to be the Red from the Viper.

here are some from mine.

I looked at the notch for bearings to make sure orientation as good. That's another way to tell.

what would be the cause of lube/oil on the outer diameter of crank/rods bearings during installation? At the end of the day since there's clearance between parts, oil will get there anyway, isn't it? Especially since oil goes thru this area to go from the block gallery to the bearings. Regarding the straight seals going on rear main cap, I wasn't able to slide one of the pin. I've tried hard (but gently) to push it without any success. So I didn't put it and called it a day. So far after 500mi, I've got 0 leak. That's something easy to change if it ever leaks in the future anyway. if I can add some more inputs: as said before, keep everything super clean! Even by doing so, after my first 10 minutes run, oil pick up was badly contaminated by small piece of paper towels (invisible when soaked with oil) Check twice everything (including pistons/deck clearance, ring gaps, etc.). Good gauges are mandatory for proper engine build.

Everything should be free to rotate, especially your linkage. With only the return spring from each carbs, mine are going back off easily. In addition, I've got an extra spring going from the stock lever arm to the hood lock area. Other solution I have seen was an extra lever arm on the rod and a spring going to the cam cover with a custom made bracket (a plate with 2 holes - one for the bolt to attach it to the cover, the other one for the spring)

it is a good reading Do you have some curves showing burnishing/friction of a joint vs. number of tightening OP. by any chance? I'm asking because I believe at some points, we should start to have an asymptote/stabilization of the burnishing? It should depend as well of the micro finish / hardness of the threads / corrosion protection layer as well. I believe with some nitro-carbonization or other treatment you could minimize burnishing with hard outer layer, not sure though if it would be compatible full heat treatment the bolt would require to get its full strength...

You can tighten them to check your plastigage and reinstall them again with no problem. Make sure you repect the torque requirement , don't forget the moly lube provided with the bolts and you'll be fine..

I run this setup, you'll have to reduce timing to avoid ping (total was 30° on my setup). Most likely it would also affect the burn rate, making it even less prone to get SMOG passed.

I too got an issue with engine to measure timing properly. Difference is my setup runs great with a lot of power but timing light shows me 45° at idle and over 60° total advance (those who believe more timing = more power should get into my car ) Here's my topic. I thought also about the damper being shot with too much offset. I first used an 1/2" extension from my tool box but it was hard to feel TDC at +/- 15° so I've made a special tool which cost me an old sparkplug, a selflocking nut milled & a piece of threaded rod (M8). I put the tool in sparkplug hole #1, I then turned the engine CW & CCW until piston touches the tool, TDC was right in the middle. My damper was spot on exactly in front of my timing indicator. I'm now suspecting my spark plug cable not compatible with my timing lights. It is obvious timing is quite correct (not perfect though) My tool:

I agree as well with your statement. What I was saying was that when I was looking to source some bearings, I was picky with the brand & the cost. I bought some Timken units from Amazon but in Timken box, there was a SKF bearing and an NTN unit in the other Timken box. It seems brands are storing only some references. They share uncommon part numbers even if they are sold under different names. Bottomline, no need to focus only on SKF brand for instance since you will likely receive something else. In my case, substitutes came from reputable suppliers, so I was fine with it.

that's a given but you bring a good point it is not obvious if Daddydonuts is having the strut assy out of the car. (it is just a matter of removing the splindle pin, piece of cake!!! )

despite what Tony is saying, you'll be fine using twice your ARP hardware. You're not going to be close to yield point. Be sure to always use some lube provided by ARP and follow their torque instructions. (Tony, I'm using calibrated torque wrench while working on engine )