HowlerMonkey

Take off the driver's kick panel and gently wiggle the wires that go into the ecu. Often only takes a light touch.

The P79 "a" cam might be interesting in a p90 head.

Pull a plug.......might be wet.

The bolts will get longer as they "expand".

Because the L28 is rear sump and the maxima requires a front sump. You would have to modify the oil pickup and add a new dipstick for the front sump location. All that kind of jazz exists in this thread that shows some of the engine fitment issues of putting the L28 into a front sump car. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/74589-l28et-into-infiniti-m30-begins/ The L24 in my car was in pristine condition and handled tire burning boost fine for 40,000 or more miles.

Here.....let me bring it on topic. The L6 in this car (this is an L6 forum) is a L24. It doesn't possess enough power in stock form but I've turbocharged them using the 280zx turbo hardware on the L24 longblock. Pretty much the only non-stock things needed are to fabricate a downpipe from the 4 bolt flange back and to fit a turbo drain. The rest can come from the 280zx turbo donor car. Here's a thread with pics that might help. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/74546-fs-1984-maxima-5-sp-turbo-l24e-west-palm-florida/

Long time, no see Grumpy.....welcome back. I've found that getting a working drivetrain (or leaving one in that still runs) is a good motivator....even if the engine is just a placeholder. I've also done a quick sanding and getting paint right over blemishes and rust to get the car one color (and possibly preview your color choice) that kept me motivated. As long as you have made sure the surface is good for paint adhesion, you can fix the bad spots later and it's far better than a car sitting in primer.

Sweet.....maybe better access to the GCRs will inspire more racers.

I thought SCCA charges money for the GCRs.

A 110 welder draws about twice the amps at the same settings as a 220 welder. This makes the circuit from the panel to the outlet you are using very important. I use a snap-on FM140 I picked up for 600 bucks in brand new condition. It's not a century welder but rather a CK systematics welder and has the biggest transformer I have ever seen in a 110 welder.........and I have welded until the torch is too hot to use. I believe the 100% duty cycle is not an empty boast with this unit......as long as it's plugged into a strong enough circuit.

My bud build a few similar machines when he worked as a fabricator for mosler.

Then it shouldn't be hard to produce a part number or a picture. The LD28 patrols were not turbo. The RD28 patrols were available with turbo.

Yet nobody....even the guys in the New Zealand forums, have seen one that didn't have a modified L20et or L28et manifold.

Then you can post the part number of the exhaust manifold so I can check it against my nissan diesel fiche.

Pics? I've worked on many nissan forklifts and ordered parts for them and I don't remember seeing any turbos attached to LD28s either in real life or on the microfiche. The only LD28s with turbos I have seen were some marine conversions and a couple of conversions done for industrial pumps. As far as turbo choice? Mercedes runs a 45 trim T3 on a 3 liter 5 cylinder om617 engine. Many volvos and saabs used 45 trim T3s and I see them everywhere at the junkyards.

What LD28 was offered with a turbo by the manufacturer?

I used a recirculation valve picking up from right in front of the throttle body and ran that to the turbo inlet as described above. The car has a stock "vacuum control valve" that is enough for the small volume of boost in the stock J pipe but I added a recirc. valve when the intercooler went on since the volume of pressurized air is much higher. It's dead quiet unless you have the air cleaner top off.....then you can hear it working. Be careful choosing valves as some are pulled open by vacuum at idle and require that they are plumbed somewhere between the maf and the turbo inlet. If you run these valves with the dump open to the atmosphere, you will be pulling air through the valve and bypassing the maf.

I've got the entire setup but am having second thoughts at swapping the LD28t for the current L28et in my Infiniti M30. I feel the setup needs a car with better aero than what I have so maybe a 240sx will have to do.

I use a snap punch and all but one has come out over the years........so I used a regular punch on that one. I was at a party and some girl asked me to give her a ride home while claiming to love Z cars. Some wannabe suitor decided to hide my keys in an attempt to give her a ride home himself but I had a snap punch in the center console and further impressed her when I stripped the column cladding, quickly took off the lock, and drove off with her. Once the snap off bolts are out, you remove the switch from the back of the lock and use a screwdriver to start the car.

Getting the l28et manifold fitted up is not very easy as the intake ports are much lower in the LD28.

Definately get it running or at least the drivetrain complete. In the case of a build like yours, the car itself is but a shell that can be replaced by one better at a later date but a complete car, whether running or not, is far more attractive to a potential buyer.

Those are really cool and truly ensure great ventilation. If I got a 2+2, those windows would be the reason. I'll look around here in florida but I would really like to make something similar that will work with the 2 seater.

WTF do bonneville speeds and drag have to do with the original post? I haven't seen any speed claims from the original poster. Tony will throw his weight around and run off a legit asset to this community.

Never seen a ridge either..........just something that comes off with mild rubbing and carb cleaner.

My current engine has reused the rod and head bolts through 3 different configuration changes and engine installations in multiple cars for about 10 years. That doesn't mean someone else won't have a rod bolt break 1 week after replacing rod bearings but reusing the bolts on his pristine 1983 ZX with 83k miles on the clock. I've also seen someone actually put 65 foot pounds on the rod bearings and only stopped because the 9th bolt he torqued started stretching and he checked to find he was using the wrong torque. For a LD28, replacing rod bolts with ARP is a no brainer as well as a high HP or high RPM driven car.