HowlerMonkey

I measured 30 1/2 inches from the bellhousing flange to the face of the pulley (280zx turbo 3 row pulley) With an engine on the ground level and sitting on pan at proper angle, I get 24 to 25 inches. It looks like 21 inches from the throttle position sensor to the starter or oil filter. It's right around 13 inches from crank center to the tps on the stock manifold and about 7 or 8 inches from center of crank to outermost part of the starter.

I just happened to be looking for a thread I remembered in here. Using search took a bit of careful word selection to find it. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116211 and http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/58490-how-to-reboot-280zxt-cv-shafts/

Does anybody know how well aftermarket pumps deal with being actuated for variable speed as in certain s130s, m30, and others? I'm wondering if they get damaged by the slower speeds the ecu calls for.

Find out the highest idle you are allowed.

Unplug the 02 sensor and see if that helps.

A big difference I see on the compressors is how it mounts to the hoses. There are at least 2 schemes for the 280zx.

Oil temp of 300 seems to be the magic number where you see bearings in the bottom end suffering.

That stuff is moving around so fast, you can't help but get the oil where you need it once it's up there.

Sounds like a body ground issue.

What was your oil temperature?

The two relays mentioned above are connected to alternator and oil pressure switch. Satisfying them is required to run the engine beyond the turning of the key switch.

Isn't the l28 flywheel 120 teeth?

You can lose prime when something like a sensor has the ecu in crisis. Try unplugging all the sensors and all the actuators and see if prime returns.

I ran a 11.5 with a 3n71b in a "j ported" mazda RX2. It lasted many years shifting at 8500 rpms and it had a B&M shift kit in it but I had to spend 800 bucks (in 1982) to have TCI build a 4,000 rpm stall convertor. That thing was a wild ride.

There are many people who have the insert but most have them bundled with other stuff to bring profit. http://www.frsport.com/DIF-10082-O2-Oxygen-Sensor-Adapter-M18-x-1.5mm-to-M12-x-1.25mm_p_15988.html That insert seems way too long. You are also relying on whether the threads are ok in your housing as well. I had missing threads so I couldn't use an insert so I soaked the tiny bolts that hold that small heat shield on with a penetrating oil for many days and was able to get them off.........which is highly difficult and possibly impossible. I just drilled a small piece of metal for the two bolt holes and threaded it for the smaller sensor. Then I found an EGR tube gasket from some toyota at the junkyard bolted it on.

I would check both cars to see what rear end and axles they have. If your 1979 has u-joint axles and a r180, you might find that the 1983 has updated axles (c/v type) and a R200 in addition to a much simpler rear brake setup. It's possible that your handbrake cable will be specific to each year's rear end hardware. I had the same issue with a 1981 280zx turbo and a 1983 ZX and luckily worked at a toyota dealership that let me stay late so I jacked both up side by side and swapped the entire front suspension by disconnecting the steering shaft from the rack and dropping the entire front crossmember that had everthing. Not much to undo but the crossmember is not easy to move around and position for re-installation if you're alone. You can suspend the engine, unbolt the 3 strut bolts on each side, undo the steering shaft, disconnect brake lines, unbolt a couple of fuel or vacuum lines from the crossmember, one nut each from engine mounts, and undo the few bolts that hold the tension rod boxes and sway bar, undo power steering lines from pump/res. Then you just swap the entire thing as well as the power steering pump....which is usually different between those years. Doing it at a shop only takes about 1 hour but doing it at home would take a lot more time in planning how you will suspend the car and the engine. You can do the same for the rear but check the driveshafts to make sure they are interchangable with each other or you will have change transmissions at the same time. After easily doing the front one evening, I stayed late the next night and did the rear which only took a short amount of time but I ran into the driveshafts being different which required me to swap the transmission. I wouldn't have been a big deal but I had to do this to both cars in order to have two running cars when I was finished. I got done so late that the gates were closed so I found the only spot open along the front of the dealership, kicked a pole until it came lose and removed it, drove over the hedge, replaced the pole and drove home. The next day, you couldn't tell a car had driven over the hedge and the rain washed away all the soil flung around in my fury to remove the pole.

Mack mentioned swapping the entire 280zx stuff into the 810. I can't find the measurements at this moment but I did compare a 910 irs to the 280zx irs and found some differences. One difference is that the 910 has a 300zx type of offset rather than the 280zx offset. This is evidenced by the Z31 wheels bolting straight on without spacing while the 280zx wheels sit out at the fender lips which makes them rub. There may have been a difference in the "height" of the shock mounting location on the arms between the S130 and the maxima. Complicating measurement is the fact that 810/910/maxima FSM state positive camber for the rear irs and the 280zx fsm states negative camber.

If you're gonna swape, then don't stabe the pedal or you will pope your tranny.

The big question is whether the z31 turbo torque convertor fits the maxima L4n71b flexplate and bellhousing dimensions. The stall is so low in the stock convertor that it really hurts performance. If you want to build one to handle big hp, you could start with the Z31 turbo, holden V8, starion turbo, rx7 turbo II transmissions because they have the most clutch frictions and possibly gearsets with more planets. The case of the trans. determines power level a certain bit by how many frictions it was machined for so you will find the maxima l4n71b case to not fit as many frictions as the turbo models. That said, the L4n71b as used in the maxima uses an external line for lock-up while the E4n71b lacks this. This case issue and the torque convertor/flexplate issues might make things more difficult. L4n71b from maxima. E4n71b....note the missing hydraulic line and addition of soleniods.

How about I show pricing and availability of my setup that can be confirmed.....and tony does the same with his setup. Remember that tony is the one who said "why on earth would you do that" at the thought of suggesting a R200 setup that bolts straight in yet has no trouble suggesting a solution that requires far more work, labor, and money spent. He needs to temper his initial reactions to other people's opinions with a bit of wisdom BEFORE spewing them on the forum. This is immediately obvious from his posting history and the fact that he will author posts that attack me without provocation. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107059-because-im-stuck-in-a-20-conex-box-for-the-weekend/page__st__20__gopid__1002141

Did your entire drivetrain swap come from a first generation maxima? If you're set on keeping an automatic, then the 4n71b is sweet. I ran a 1984 4n71b in a maxima in which I simply swapped the turbo manifolding to the l24e and the transmission lasted 20k miles behind that setup through some really hard driving.......after 225,000 miles before the turbo was done.

There was an article in "hot rod"/"car craft"/"Popular Hotrodding" around 1981 titled "off center casualty" that dealt with this exact issue. Wish I could find it.

Sending today in about an hour. Will e.mail and PM you with tracking number.

Definately leave alone your current transmission other than hooking up the kickdown. It works now. The transmission will kick down when +12v is applied to the terminal on the kickdown solenoid. It makes a huge difference in performance. Shift kitting a transmission that old will surely run you into issues as I found out in the early 80s when I was getting my 3n71b shift kits from B&M.

My setup bolts straight in without incurring the cost of two sets of axles. Junkyards will charge you for destroying a set of axles to get the inner tripods. They will charge you the amount of the axle itself. If they find you out in the junkyard destroying parts to build a subie/nissan hybrid axle, they will charge you for everything or simply eject you from the yard. You will need both axles from the subie and both axles from the 280zx. My setup costs less, is stronger, bolts in, and doesn't require anything other than swapping out the parts I detailed above. Please give us the number for the guy who will do the axles for the pricing you quoted because I will surely want to get in on this bargain that is too good to be true.