HowlerMonkey

Definately leave alone your current transmission other than hooking up the kickdown. It works now. The transmission will kick down when +12v is applied to the terminal on the kickdown solenoid. It makes a huge difference in performance. Shift kitting a transmission that old will surely run you into issues as I found out in the early 80s when I was getting my 3n71b shift kits from B&M.

My setup bolts straight in without incurring the cost of two sets of axles. Junkyards will charge you for destroying a set of axles to get the inner tripods. They will charge you the amount of the axle itself. If they find you out in the junkyard destroying parts to build a subie/nissan hybrid axle, they will charge you for everything or simply eject you from the yard. You will need both axles from the subie and both axles from the 280zx. My setup costs less, is stronger, bolts in, and doesn't require anything other than swapping out the parts I detailed above. Please give us the number for the guy who will do the axles for the pricing you quoted because I will surely want to get in on this bargain that is too good to be true.

As compared to the SU setup with twin 44mm venturis on stock manifolding, the single 50mm throttle body flows substantially more air regardless of the pressure drop across the venturi.

Price your entire swap. purchase of 2x 280zx tripod axles purchase of 2x subie tripod axles purchase of R180 subaru differential. LOL at your stating that $50 will get you..... the subie axles disassembled the zx axles disassembled the subie inners installed on the 280zx axles, and the boots replaced. Don't omit any parts required because I will surely point out the omissions. My suggestion bolts straight in and can be done in an hour without trips to any shop and some of the parts are not necessary but were included in my estimate of what might be needed to cover all years of putting the R200 into the 810/910 equipped with IRS. Include the 280zx axle flanges in your swap because they will be needed. I've done the swap.....it's pictured earlier in the thread. You have not done the swap and are going on about mounting issues that don't exist with my swap suggestion. If his car is equipped with a H190, then none of this matters except for my learning further that tony will talk about something he hasn't yet done as if he's done it.

LOL.....tony starts the smokescreen to cloud up things a bit. Do us and yourself a favor by reviewing your past postings featuring being harsh for no apparent reason and a condescending attitude. This conversion, which I have done on the 810/910/maxima and tony has not, cost exactly what I stated and required no going into the differential or converting the diff. to fit axle shafts...........which is where the major expense or labor is incurred with tony's suggestion. You need to stop arguing for argument's sake. BTW.....I picked up a 4 pinion longnose R200 (3.9) at the yard yesterday for $35.00 and checked prices on the rest. Here is the list of all needed with pricing checked today. $35.00 3.9 4-pinion R200 longnose from infiniti M30 (there are two in the yard....I got both of them) $10.00 Pinion flange for r200 from r200 equipped s12. $17.50 X2 halfshafts from 280zx $10.00 X2 stub axle flanges from R180 equipped 200sx (there are 3 in the yard) I didn't need these on my 910/maxima but some early cars might. $5.00 R200 diff mount for R200 equipped S12 200sx. This is a bolt in affair without the need to open the differential and incur the labor required for tony's conversion. Tony surely won't be finding a locking subie diff. for 40 bucks as I won't be finding a R200 longnose with mechanical lsd from a late z31 turbo for 40 bucks.............well.....actually I have....... but the pricing of a locking diff. in R180 or R200 flavors will be about the same. This disagreement started because Tony thinks swapping in a R200 that bolts in is ridiculous while suggesting a sunny/pulsar GTi-r scoop is period perfect on a datsun 810. The GTI-r came out in 1990 and has this scoop which would look ridiculous on the original poster's car for the simple reason of the hood slope being drastically different between a GTI-r and the 810.

$40.00 Junkyard R200 (biggest price variable depending on whether 4 pinion or lsd) $10.00 Junkyard pinion flange from S12 200sx turbo $10.00 Junkyard transmission mount from S12 200sx turbo....haven't seen one worn out yet. $60.00 2X Cv type axle shafts from 280zx from upull yard. $20.00 you might need 280zx axle flanges if your 810 or 910 was equipped with the early non-cv type axles. It bolts right in and is all nissan parts. How much will it cost for you fit a 3.9 or 4.1 equipped R180?

Why on earth would he want a sunny GTi-R scoop on a 1981 810? (you suggested it above, tony) It is surely not "period perfect" to put a 1990 scoop on a 1981 car yet you have a problem with my suggesting a R200 that bolts right in? Tony will go to great lengths to throw his weight around and disagree with people while doing the exact same thing he tries to chide others about. Maybe tony could work up the pricing for his r180 suggestion that will net you the same gearing variety and strength as the R200. Since he plans to autocross it, how about doing an estimate (including labor if diffs need to be opened) for 3.9 or 4.1 gears and I will work up pricing for the complete R200 with 3.9 or 4.1 gears. Let's compare if you want.

LOL.....bring anything you want to our american dyno dynamics twin retarder. It's good for over 2000hp and does not inflate numbers. We wouldn't be staying in business if our dyno inflated numbers to the kind of clientele and other shops who outsource thier highest end projects to us. Our cars back up any dyno claims with world records on the track.

If you don't like the angled cut on the left hand side of your pattern, many "motorcycle approved" H4 setups from carello and other manufacturers will give you a cut straight across and won't be a problem with oncoming drivers as long as you have the cut below thier eye level. (you will actually want them aimed lower than that anyway or the high beams will be uselessly aimed above the roadway) I moved tons of them at electrodyne as we were the importer of carello back in the 80s. The big plus for carello is that they had H4 housing/lenses that were shaped exactly like normal sealed beams.

1984 non-turbo manual federal.........# A18-613 500 nissan # 23710-01P00 $35.00 shipped to PA via ups ground 1986 non-turbo manual federal.........# A18-650 M20 nissan # 23710-18P02 $35.00 shipped to PA via ups ground 1989 non-turbo manual federal.........# A18-A00 M84 nissan # 23710-25P00 $55.00 shipped to PA via ups ground Definately research this while considering what your plans are with the car because there are more a few differences in them which may be an issue if you are doing any modifications or plan some for later. http://xenonz31.com/ECUdifferences.html

Have one here in west palm beach.

When the diff. goes, put a r200 into it......if your car has IRS.

Your negative to the body is not kosher.

Most L28 manifolds warp because someone drives them 25,000 miles with broken bolts/studs.

Our standing mile ford GT surely will never make it's 2000+hp on 87 octane....ever.

If you have enough piston slap or part of the skirt is missing to make that kind of noise, then the piston may be tilting enough to show lower compression on that cylinder.........which is easy to check. As far as inspection, I would start with the easiest things first like inspecting under the valve cover. If you don't find anything there, pulling the pan is a bit labor intensive but you can check both the lower side of the pistons and the rod bearings.

I ran a L24e with 280zx turbo stuff at 5psi for about 20,000 miles where it laid down mid 15 second quarter miles.......even after changing to a 3.54 from a 3.7 I ran the stock L24e system and injectors.

I was wondering if there are distributor caps available for the Z31 and maxima distributors from 1984 to 1989 that have conventional upward pointing terminals instead of the compensated side terminals? Distributor diameter needs to be kept to the minimum so I can't go with a later pathfinder or quest distributor.

Does a TH700r4 default to 2nd or 3rd gear when a sensor or switch input is missing? Many transmissions do. Definately count your gearshifts. What is the rear end ratio?

The whole benefit to the MN47 is the quench that resists detonation......but only with flat top pistons. Now putting that head on a l28 with flat tops might be higher compression than the design works best with.........not sure.

Don't the stock rods squirt oil on the bottom of the pistons.

RB20 maybe?

The aladdin came out in 1929. I can actually cover holes up to 1/4 inch without filling them using the aluminum brazing rod from harbor freight........which is a probably a chinese copy......but it works fine. Just make sure the surface is clean. I've also repaired nicks in props with it.

That dent in the front for sway bar clearance is in the exact same place as where the sway bar sits on a R30 or R31......maybe some other cars as well.

Any of you guys tried the aluminum brazing rod(aladdin rod)? I will try it later this week.