HowlerMonkey

I got an everstart 24ms-6 marine battery from walmart at least 3 years ago and it just recently survived leaving my lights on for a few hours. With marine batteries, you get stronger plates to deal with the huge pounding boats take but care must be taken to get the proper marine battery. With Everstart marine batteries, 24ms-6 is a 24 family battery with "MS" standing for "motor start" while the neverstart batteries with "dp" mean deep cycle. Deep cycle batteries love to trickle energy out slowly over long periods but might struggle with cranking amperage. I use the extra terminals for a supplementry body to negative terminal ground and the extra positive terminal sits waiting for use to power something heavy duty. Positive terminal is on the right of this battery but I did no research as to whether it is available with the terminals swapped. It was substantially cheaper than the 24 series auto batteries on the automotive side of the display rack but that might have been a fluke or sale.

It looks like someone might have changed the indexing with that screw. I'm sure there is a spec for resistence when it is fully closed so you can probably adjust it back to stock values pretty simply. That other screw that holds the plastic gear down is a bit harder to get right. If it wasn't touched, it's a good thing. Definately mark that gear and case with a sharpie or paint pen.

Sweet!!! Did you score the turbo stuff from a "cash for clunker" car? (red paint) If so, nice score and I like the manifold. I'm working cleaning up one that will still run egr and have the M30 EMS Idle control.

I could swear he said he got a 82/83 L28et distributor at the beginning of the thread.

Was a stereo recently installed?

M30 R200 flange next to a 280zx n/a flange.

Turn the key to on and have someone listen to the fuel pump while you open the flap in the air flow meter.\ If you don't have power to the fuel pump, then the microswitch inside the plastic cover needs to be tweeked.

When we built Bob Lentz's GT2 280z out of a former 240z race car, I put the 280z taillights into it. I seem to remember lightly grinding the countour of the outside end to fit.

I started there in late 1989. I used to walk out where the train tracks used to be and find a few spikes I could grind or cut into chisels and punches.

I'm trying to find a place to discuss nistune, upgrades of 280zxt to use z31 ems, and using other nissan ecus that drive hybrid Z cars such as RB25 or VQ swaps and the rest.

I just got done checking a mitsu. 3000gt VR4 compression as it sat on the engine stand before I spent more time assembling it. Other than piston ring issues, most of what lowers compression usually removes all compression from a cranking speed standpoint. I wanted to see if I had to go further into this engine so I simply removed all the spark plugs and hand cranked it. It had between 15 and 20 psi hand cranking on an engine that sat for 5 years.

We have an EMS forum with megasquirt and other aftermarket ems forums but I don't see any place to discuss factory engine management. Just needs another sub forum.

Dang....If I had seen this a few days ago, you would have had the option of using a M30 ecu spliced into the 260z harness. I have a few M30 engine management systems/harnessing that can be melded into the car of your choice or run as stand alone.

What percentage of the drive time on that car is on a single injector where you have to deal with transition to multiple injectors? Race cars are one thing but getting a smooth transition on a street car that has enough fueling for 2500hp brings up issues that pure drag cars never have to contend with. We use John Meany who designed F.A.S.T., accell dfi, and big stuff.

They rebuild and test ecus. I used to be general manager at the testing and rebuild facility which probably has 40,000 ecus in the warehouse which are used for "critical core" program in which they simply replace your ecu with a tested unit on the shelf. If you want testing, it would be "R & R program" in which you send in the ecu for testing or repair in the interest of getting your old unit back once fixed or tested ok.........or they tell you it is unfixable and will provide a new one. Blue streak/standard motor products only deals wholesale through most every parts store chain as do "A1 cardone" and a few others. Most of the "others" like BWD are reboxed blue streak ecus. Try a local chain you trust to give you pricing options if you go that route or simply get another ecu.

It might be the cam timing position is more suitable to lower end power.

My point is that he hasn't had to deal with the transition from one to two injectors on 2500hp worth of fuel system. 600hp, maybe, but not 2500hp. Good thing we're not going with e85 or the transition would even harder to optimize.

I'm going to guess you're not operating above 2000hp.

I'm not sure you understood tony's answer. Many cars don't even have any oil sprayed onto the bottom of the piston.

You have to be careful when someone says "bad ecu" since about 90% of the nissan ecus sent in to me at blue streak for a rebuild tested ok. In your case, it sounds like the the car experienced a "wrong polarity incident" that has fused the injector drivers. You can test this by simply turning on the key and checking whether the ground side of the injector is being continually grounded. I would do all testing with the fuel pump unplugged to keep the engine from being filled with gasoline.

I probably did 1000 valve adjustments at Z shop of miami and found it common on the early to mid S30s for the clearance to diminish because of the valve seat materials used when the car was manufactured. If anyone lapped in the valves and could see that the "greying pattern" of the valve/seat where they meet was wide or narrow. If it's too narrow, the psi goes up drastically and could cause rapid recession until the contact area is worn large enough to not promote more wear.

I remember seeing 285/40-16s as early as 1986.

I would pull the pan and look at the bottom of each piston. I would say about 20% of L28s I have opened have chunks of piston skirts in the pan. It's easy to see the bottoms when the pan is off. That piston ring part might have become wedged in the oil pan during or before your last build.

A working EGR will allow the engine to run more timing at cruising speeds.

I thought they were legal in ITE and PRO/IT