letitsnow

Here is the manual page for MS2 dual wheel setup, we can run full COP with this wheel. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Dual.htm

It's been a while since I looked at EDIS stuff, but I think either should do. I believe multispark just sends several sparks below a certain rpm, kind of like an MSD box. Try searching msextra.com, that's where you really need to look if you can't find an answer in the manual.

If the old can ran well, then starting there is probably a good point.

A long run of -4 SS AN line, the solenoids, and the switches to make a safe system are the pricey parts, don't cheap out on the bottle. N2O is stored in a liquid form, you can't store an appreciable amount more by attempting to increase the tank pressure above the vapor pressure, that's like trying to compress liquid water, not very productive. Nitrogen has a very high vapor pressure, that's why you can store it as a gas at 5000psi and regulate it down to a lower working pressure. CO2 is also stored as a liquid, when you shoot a paintball gun, some of the liquid boils off to replace the vapor you used. This boiling action is what makes it cold.

The wear on that one lobe does look kinda odd, but assuming it's just a clean spot and not galling, I'd run it.

I don't have much advice other than run it, if it's gutless down low, advance it some and try again. You might call isky and ask them too.

Pictures are too out of focus to tell much, does your camera have a close up mode(macro, flower icon, etc)? Is that just baked on oil crap or is it rust?

My tune is in post 7 of this thread.

You should look over your settings, how are you driving your coil?

I've never done pie cuts, but they look like a huge pain. Using mandrel bent 180's is pretty easy though.

If you can't find the fixed angle option for whatever reason, export your spark map, set the whole thing to 10, set timing, import the spark map. Set the timing by changing the trigger angle, messing with the adders, and the position of the dizzy until the timing light matches the spark map.

I think my tune should load right into the most recent stable release just fine. I can swap between MS1E and MS2E by just swapping the CPU, but I used all GM sensors. It should be just that easy, maybe if you used easytherm and the stock sensor it could be disagreeing with you. My setup consists of an L28ET, 'A' cam, MSA downpipe, 3" exhaust with turbo muffler, stock turbo, EVO 8 IC w/2.25" pipe(didn't actually notice a need for changing the tune after this, could probably have added some timing though), 750cc injectors running at 36psi(approx 600cc).

I have a 355" sbc with trick flow 195's with a smallish cam(comp 270hr magnum) in a firebird, it's not short on torque by any sense of the word. Plenty of power from ~2000rpm-6500rpm. You don't start losing any appreciable torque down low until you start going 210+ on a 350" engine. Even if you are down on torque a little, with an engine this size in a car this light, it's going to GO no matter what. You're not going to miss 20ft/lb right off idle ever. If/when I get sick of the L28 in my car I think this engine might end up in it with a t56, it went 12.3 in a 3rd gen camaro previously, should be good for 11.5's in a Z.

The theme is nice. Has any consideration been given to enabling tapatalk? It's free for the forum and convenient.

I had an issue with the hydraulic lash adjusters sticking, floating, and possibly holding the valve open. Changing to a solid head fixed a massive power loss at 4500rpm and the engine ran much smoother, the car went .8 sec quicker in the 1/4 mile after fixing it(at less boost). This was a mechanical issue, I'm sure that if they were functioning properly the difference would be negligible.

I appreciate the effort a ton, thanks!

I doubt that his radiation losses are greater than most typical cars. Mine comes up to temp just fine in 20*F weather.

Scruffy pad, green or brown, either works.

I use 200/225 springs with bilstein dampers, the ride is firm, but pretty good. I'm not afraid of hitting some of the smoother train tracks around here at cruising speed. The 100mile round trip to my previous job was tiring though.

If you can pick up an N/A 'A' stamped cam on the cheap($50 or less, they aren't really special enough to warrant any more than another stock cam) I'd do it. Otherwise, call up isky, tell them your goals and your setup, send in the rusty cam to be reground, and enjoy.

Under 500rwhp, sure.

Care to figure out the head loss for us over that 2.5 feet of pipe? I'll give you a hint, not much and no where near 2psi. The intercooler will be a far bigger restriction than the pipe. I did figure it out, you'll need to be moving 50lb/min of air through a 2.25" pipe to get a .85 psi drop over 2.5 feet of pipe, 1.4psi for 6 feet of pipe. That's ~500rwhp worth of air. At 300rwhp worth of air (~30lb/min) that same 2.5 feet of pipe(2.25" pipe) will cost you a whopping .3psi. I've included a couple bends in that 2.5 feet of pipe as well, just for good measure. Ok, now this is just silly. Have you measured the temp coming out of a turbo that's working fairly hard? I have, think 220*F+(at 9psi on a t3), in a 150* engine bay it can only LOSE heat. Now if you're talking about the cold side of the intercooler, that pipe should only be 12"-14" long, any longer is poor routing. Edit: I think I've been beaten to the punch, but I've got maths.

Awesome, thank you. PM headed your way.

Is it running? I'd really appreciate a WOT datalog from ~2k-6k in 3rd or 4th if possible.

Interesting, when does it start to come alive on the L24? Is there any work done to the motor or is it fairly stock?