letitsnow

The fitting attaches to the tube with a compression fitting, the gold(brass) piece slides over the tube and crushes down of it when you tighten the nut. You'll have to cut the flare off the stock line to get it to work. To convert 5/16 to -6 (3/8, or 6/16) you'll need a -5 to -6 adapter. The last time I did something like this, I used a tube nut with a sleeve and flared the stock line, it's much more of a pain.

Pending the size of this thing, it sounds like it could be a pretty good candidate. Losing <1 cfm isn't anything I'd worry about, it's so little it could just be noise in the data.

It's really hard to say yes or no without that, the real question is, Is it doing what you want it to? If I assume it's a reasonably sized compressor wheel(50 trim, v1/v2, or similar) and that it's got a stage 3 t3 wheel(which is pretty common) then it'll probably be a pretty good setup for drag racing and make high 300's-low400's when pushed. If it's got a stock t3 exhaust wheel then it might work alright for some track days or drag racing, and make mid-high 300's when pushed. Without taking it apart everything is just a guess, but if it's doing everything you want it to, why bother? If it isn't what you want, then tear into it.

This is a pointless conversation, So far, everything said in this thread is completely irrelevant. Nobody can comment on what housing is better without knowing what wheels are inside it. Are we taking t25 or gt4788? For example, I have 2 turbo's right here next to me, one has a .60 a/r compressor housing, one has a .50 a/r housing, which can make more power?..............The one with the .50 housing will, it's a t3/t04b v1/v2 trim, the other is a stock 300zx t3. To make this a relevant and non-pointless conversation, you need to tell us what wheels(compressor and turbine), what engine, compression, cam, intake, fuel system, exhaust, goals for the car. etc. Only then can someone give you a meaningful answer.

It helped a lot, the fuel was at a level that I had a hard time making it home last time. After I switched it I drove around for a bit and it worked pretty well, got on it a few times and everything felt good(AFR's right around my 12.3:1 goal), on the way back cruising at 60-65 it would get a bubble every now and then and drop a cylinder. It is an improvement, but doesn't quite work well enough. Apparently at 7psi a 5/16 line is plenty. I just started cutting apart my spare tank, cut a ~6x6 hole on the top opposite of the fill neck and I'm about to go liberate the fuel lines and cut a smaller hole on the same side as the fill neck. There was a LOT of rust in it, probably 5lbs of loose dirt and rust. Edit: I got the lines out, in case anyone is wondering, there IS a pick up filter/sock in a '77 280z tank. It's a relatively fine stainless steel mesh with a brass housing.

Sure, you can figure out that it is asymmetrical, but not 'how' asymmetrical it is. For instance, not all 240° .500 lift cam lobes have the same shape, one could have a .200" lift duration of 190° and the other have a .200 lift duration of 230°, resulting in two radically different cams that have the same .05" duration.

No way in hell would I have a shop build me an engine without being being able to check the place out in person. Unless it was somewhere like rebello, have a VERY extensive reputation for great work AND have people with dyno numbers/testimonials to back them up.

Here's the 240mm kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-MU47618-1C/

PM pallnet, I'm pretty sure I read that he's still taking orders via PM. If you were so inclined, you could use the stock fuel rail and ford CFI injectors(500cc).

I wonder what would happen if I got a 3/8->5/16 barb and switched them? Not as a permanent solution, but so I could start sorting other issues out without going to the gas station every 25mi.

One is 3/8 and the other is 5/16, they both run into a baffle/sump/canister in the middle of the tank. The smaller one is on the bottom both on the outside and in the tank. I currently have the larger as the feed.

No, haven't seen one of those either. The only reason I could think for one of those would be if it had tabs to bend up and prevent the bolts from backing out.

Just to make sure I'm not a gigantic idiot, which is the feed line and which is the return line on the tank? What would happen if they were switched?

Both of the manual transmission L28's I've taken apart have not had any spacers or plates between the flywheel and the crankshaft.

All relatively unimportant...... It really sounds like an STi(EVO maybe?) is the way to go, probably won't be able to get a warranty unless it's aftermarket.

~04 350z?

I bet the voltage sense wire is messed up somehow, it escapes me as to which one it is right now, but it should have the same voltage as the battery. This tells the voltage regulator inside the alternator what to do.

The tank feeds properly when it's full to the top, after a few gallons it starts to slosh around and I get a bubble that I can feel every now and then. Thanks for the info about the lines, but I think my '77 tank is different than a '72, it's probably still soldered though. I have a spare tank that I'm going to cut open, sandblast, fix the holes, re-tube with some SS tubing, and coat with some alcohol resistant coating so I can run e85 without fear. I can tell I'll want more power later on, it's already fun at 7psi.

Why not call isky or web or one of the cam grinders and see what they need?

On my old laptop they both would freeze constantly, my new laptop, an eee, is MUCH more tolerant it seems

I'm almost positive that there is a leak in the line inside the tank that sucks air when it's under ~3/4 tank. It was aerating the fuel and the air was collecting in the highest point in the fuel rail, above 1, 2, and 3. It sounds kinda out there, but the car runs good and pulls cleanly to 5k where I was shifting. I started a thread in fuel delivery about my options for fixing it.

Could be, I'm thinking a surge tank could solve my problems, but I don't want to put a bandaid on a bullet wound.

It is, but it was pretty rusty inside. I just had it apart and it looked good, but I think it's probably a crack, or small pinhole.

There are different schools of thought on breaking in motors, not everyone adheres to the 'be easy on it for 500mi' theory. I've had VERY good luck slowly working up the rpm's and engine braking down for the first 50mi, then changing the oil, then pretty much having at it.

I'm extremely suspicious that my feed line inside the gas tank has a leak in it and it's sucking air when the tank is anything but completely full. The tank has been cleaned and coated with eastwood's gas tank sealer kit. What options do I have to fix this? I think I'm stuck either cutting it open or getting a new tank.