letitsnow

Did you remove the factory voltage regulator? Have you had a parts store test the alternator?

Scratch what I said about a restriction, it just sucked 5 gallons out of my can in roughly 5 minutes. Ran good while it was doing it too. Filled the tank all the way up and it runs GREAT!!!

New cap, new plugs, and new injector harness....Same problem. 1, 2, and 3 are dead. I checked them with a 'noid light and they're getting signal, I can hear them clicking if I use a screwdriver to listen. Also, it runs bad now cold or hot. Here's a datalog, I have an LC1 set to default and no TPS. Edit: BREAKTHROUGH- I took the pump feed line off and dropped it into a small gas can, the car idled and revved correctly!! I couldn't drive it because I'm not willing to have an open can of gas sitting next to me while driving down the road. It also didn't empty the ~1 gal in the can for the 5 min it was running. A 255lph will move ~1.05 gallons per minute at 30psi. I think I have an air leak somewhere before the pump, injectors 1, 2, 3 are up hill from 4,5,6 and if there was air in the fuel line it would uncover those injectors. I also think I have a restriction in my feed line somewhere, or the screen is clogged. 2010-04-24_12.45.02.zip

Use a switched source.

I've switched them around, it'll run for a little bit, but then foul out. Opening the gap to .045 for all of them seemed to help a little. The cap is on it's way. I've moved no 1 and no 6 with no change. I did find yesterday that I had a wiring harness for an LT1 I can cannibalize, instead of spending ~$60 for injector pigtails.

Some people say to glue the gasket to the pan using something like weatherstip glue, then use a little sealant on the block. I haven't done it, but I might give it a shot on my valve cover, it leaks a bit.

I used a felpro with high temp silicone, no leaks. I'm pretty sure I did the hand tighten and let it sit for a while routine, I know I checked to make sure the pan surface was flat.

I'm in my 3rd year of mechanical engineering and I'm still pretty bad with time management.

They're not platinums, I'll get the part number when I get home. Nobody has mentioned the massive difference in leakdown that the no 1 cylinder has compared to the rest, or are you guys just assuming that the HF leakdown tester is complete junk?

I'll get the number later today, but they're the cheapest NGK's. I'll get a new cap, the wires are brand new from carquest. I probably won't be able to look at it much until thursday or friday, but that might not be a bad thing, I've been working on it with every extra minute for a week straight.

That's what I'm starting to think, I'm going to redo the harness before anything else. Once I have that to a point where I can trust it I'll look elsewhere. Also, as if to add insult to injury, the relay that activates the starter motor when you turn the key stopped working.

No resistor pack. Plugs are wet, but not soaking. They are whatever is stock for an '82 280zx turbo, gaped at .045.

injector opening - 1.0 battery correction - .20 pwm current limiting - 30% pwm time threshold - 1.0 It stumbles when I pull 3-6 off, 1 and 2 have little effect. I also swapped injector 1 and 6 yesterday, no change. They are the stock ones from an '83 turbo. I've also switched the channels back and forth.

Tank was just pulled, cleaned, and coated. The pump has less than 100 miles on it. The regulator is clearly regulating at the pressures I said earlier. I'm assuming 1 and 2 are so cold because they're not firing reliably. To humor my dad, I'm going to change the oil pump for a turbo pump in hopes that the timing chain tensioner isn't tensioning correctly because of my relatively low oil pressure.

'77 l28e regulator. The head is going to come off tomorrow unless somebody has a really good suggestion...

'77 bottom end p90 head (solid lifters) n47 intake zxt turbo/manifold msa downpipe 3" exhaust with turbo muffler turbo injectors ms1 v3 walboro 255 '83 turbo dizzy zxt charge pipe That should about cover it. Did some testing, got a leakdown tester from harbor freight, but I think i'm either doing it wrong, it's junk, or my engine is junk. I'm increasing the pressure until the % guage reads 0% leakdown(~18psi on the other gauge), then attaching it to the cylinder at tdc on the compression stroke(verified by looking at the cam lobes). cyl 1 exh temp 175°F measured on the exh manifold with an IR gun cold comp 115psi hot leakdown 70% hot compression 125psi cyl 2 295°F 100 52% 115 cyl 3 500°F 110 42% 120 cyl 4 515°F 110 45% 120 cyl 5 435°F 100psi 40% 115psi cyl 6 550°F 110psi 55% 120psi

That would have been a pretty low 12 sec pass, nice job! Should be in the 11's with some tuning and tweaking.

Apparently it has convinced itself that it's a honda and should only have 4 cylinders. When it's cold, it runs on all 6 great, after it warms up to ~140°, 1 and 2 drop out intermittently. It pops out the intake if you rev/try to drive it. Fuel pressure is ~25psi at idle with the reference line hooked up, ~35 with it disconnected, increases with boost as well. Also checked while driving, it operates as expected. Spark plugs were new, the ones that come out of the offending cylinders are always wet. Spark plug wires are brand new carquest oe replacements, did the same thing with the old wires, but they leaked visibly at night with a little water Idles at 13.5:1 when running on all 6 according to the wideband No datalog because I really don't think it's a problem with the tuning/megasquirt, I'll get one if you guys want Valve lash was set to the factory settings Injectors were cleaned/flowed by a local shop, I'm going to move them around and see if the misfire follows Compression is ~115 across the board, seems a little low, but the engine has 7.4:1 compression. New msd blaster coil, does the same if I borrow my dad's blaster from his firebird. Dizzy cap looks good, but I'm going to get one tomorrow anyhow. I had it running decently before, but as soon as you got into boost, it would go DEAD lean, like hitting fuel cut. I was driving around trying to figure it out and it just started to drop cylinders. Maybe it detonated and blew the headgasket between 1 and 2, anyone know anywhere to get/rent a leakdown tester?

My bottom end hasn't run since 1986. It was sitting as a longblock in a car in a (leaky)barn, completely uncovered for 23 years. It had oil, but no coolant, it wasn't turned over at all either. I pulled the head and pan to check things out, it all looked good so I put the new stuff on(p90, gaskets, oil pan). It's one of the few parts of my powertrain that actually works correctly.

I wouldn't pay someone $100 to do it(but then again I won't pay anyone to do anything on my car), as long as the timing chain doesn't fall in(or the tension doesn't come out) it's pretty easy to do. Why do you think you need to change it?

I'm looking for a stock fan with clutch, for a '77 to be specific, but any s30 fan should work. Please PM me. Thanks!

Remember that 98 in Oz isn't the same as 98 here.

Grade 12.9 bolts are strong, however, they can be brittle. I would use either grade 8(SAE, NOT grade 8.8 metric) or class 10.9 metric bolts. This should help you tell what kind of bolt you've got. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw#Mechanical_classifications

The way a bushing like this works is that the inner sleeve is held by one piece(the control arm I think) and the poly bushing is held by the other part(the chassis). If the inner sleeve isn't longer than the bushing, the control arm will clamp on the bushing and it will bind, stick, and squeak.

If it runs well enough to make boost and not explode immediately, that's about as good of a start as you can reasonably hope for. I'd wait for the battery to arrive, then have at it with a wideband.