cockerstar

I'd expect to pay around $750-900 for a CLSD r200 swap if you don't need a new driveshaft...

Sounds like you should search about the functionality of an SU carb! If one carb is getting fuel and the other isn't, it's a pretty simple process of finding out where the block is...

Do you have the part number on the ECU so I can cross reference my collection for a match?

no

You do realize that the common convention is to interpret all caps as yelling, right?

If you don't go with camber plates you'll likely use the stock three bolt insulator with a modified version of the stock upper spring seat.

I would recommend the ground control kit with modified stock upper spring perches if you don't want camber plates. If you just don't want to cut your shock towers, John Coffey (johnc on here) sells a biscuit style kit that doesn't require any sheet metal to install. He can hook you up with the collars and springs if you need them too. Camber plates aren't designed to be used with stock springs. In my opinion, if you're going with coil overs you should section the struts at the same time. A drop that doesn't require sectioning of the struts can easily be had with a set of lowering springs.

You can also modify your stock spring perches with a little cutting and welding and some tubing of the appropriate diameter. Like Jon said, adding camber plates will gain you some more clearance.

Hey guys, Just like the title says, I'm looking to buy dogleg patch panels. Tabco or OEM is fine as long as it's in good shape with no rust. If you're wanting to trade, let me know, as I have a ton of parts with many being NOS. Thanks, Ryan

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Personally, I've never removed a rear bumper from a 240z with the gas tank fully installed. Maybe there's a better way to do it, but I've always found it easier to just loosen the straps and sag the tank rather than to go look it up in the FSM and find an easier way.

But we only get one positive and one negative vote each day! There are far too many good posts to like I was really just seconding the motion of a "nominate/flag" option. It also has a downside though. I could see it going overboard and sending an excessive amount of threads to the shed.

I don't know if I was serious or not. I guess that's what you get for asking to be spoon fed information rather than simply looking it up. How about looking in a haynes manual, or even better yet, the FSM! We even have a nifty search feature here on this site that would probably yield the same information. Sorry if I come across as being a bit crass

Can it be like facebook for this thread? I'd like to "like" this suggestion!

You remove the gas tank, or loosen the straps enough to let it down until you can slide a hand in there.

From the first pic you can see how much of the skin I took from the original car. I laid this over the hole in my rood and traced it out. From there I flipped the skin over and followed my line about 1" out with a plasma cutter. Then it was lots of grinding (I probably could have gone closer than the 1", but I wanted to reduce warping as much as I could, and liked the extra wiggle room) to get the plug to fit perfectly into the hole. By going with the bigger cut I was able to make sure the skin was properly aligned because the curved edges hugged onto the roof and pulled it right into place. Take it slow, and your warping will be minimal. In the second pic you can see what it looks like tacked into place. Then I got greedy with the stitch welding and you can see all of the warping in the third pic. If I was going to do it again I would just keep filling in with tack welds, making sure that you're getting great penetration. Skip around a lot and take your time to keep the metal cool. It'll take longer, but you'll save a lot time in the long run with your body work!

My approach is in here You're going to want a piece of copper to use as a heat sink and as a backer for filling in where you blow through! The metal on the roof is quite thin. I used a lincoln 120v unit, although I don't remember the amperage.

If the car is that stripped it might make sense to just try and get the whole thing and scrap the shell when you're done. What you need from the car depends on what you're going to be upgrading, and what you're going to be keeping stock, so there really isn't a "definitive list".

I'm guessing you found the JTR kit, the scarab/hooker kit, and the JCI kit? JCI is for the gen 3/4 engines, so it won't work with the gen 1/2 small blocks. The JTR kit is the standard. It's a quality kit, and it's reasonably priced. It sets the engine low and far back, but it really limits your header options. You are looking at custom if you want long tubes, but if you stick with block huggers or manifolds, then there are a TON of options out there. The scarab kit places the engine further up and away from the firewall, but the headers that hooker used to make bolt right in. I haven't done the swap personally, but if I was doing it I would buy the kit from JTR and get their swap book too. There is a TON of good info in there! If you use the search function, you'll be able to find the nuances of each different kit, but this should get you going in the right direction. Hope this helps, Ryan

NOS ones pop up from time to time, but I don't know of a source that has them reliably. I'd keep my eye out on eBay I do have a NOS emblem if you're interested to finish it off once you get it recovered.

+1 on what Tony said! If they're the series one types, with the "D" in the center, you're around the $4-500 range since they sound restorable

You'll get more of your money selling it part by part, or in related parts groups. If you can find a buyer for all of it, that might be the best way to go, since it would save you a lot of time. However, it's hard to find someone that would do things exactly the same way you were planning, so finding that one buyer is hard. I would list it all together at once, and if it doesn't sell, start breaking it up into individual pieces / lots. Another option would be to not transfer the things over to the clean shell, and sell one project car and one shell. You might be too far along to make that route practical though.

Any shots from the side on these? Loving the wide tires in the back!

When I got my car, it was in pieces and every nut/bolt was in a giant turkey pan. It wasn't too difficult to put everything back together. Then again, I had two parts cars as references. I would be much, much more concerned with the condition of the body over it being in pieces!