cockerstar

Anyone else catch that they're "within 4 g in a set"?

Best of luck with finding a single con rod for a '73! The 73 engines came with the larger 9mm rod bolts (Nissan changed to the 9mm rod bolts during late 1972 for the rest of the l series engines going into the s30 and s130), making them desirable for people doing a stroker build. Your best bet is probably going to be to source a complete set of used ones in good shape and have them shipped to you. They should run $100-150 plus shipping depending con condition. Another option would be to go with the earlier 240z rods. They're the same length, but have the 8mm rod bolts. These should be strong enough if you're doing things where you'll be keeping the l24 block. I don't have an actual power figure for what they'll hold, but they're fine for stock and mild performance engines. Hope that helps, Ryan

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It looks like the previous shop that did the work did a pretty good job! You might want to consider taking it back to them to have them shoot the new color, since they already did all of the prep work once. A lot of paint shops won't guarantee their work if they didn't do 100% of the job from prep to color, FWIW. I with bjhines on this one, and wouldn't expect you to be more than $1700 out the door after everything is said and done.

Pretty sure the tundra filters are not a screw on filter Tony That's really disappointing to hear! I have all craftsman tools for the same exact reason. I'm mostly a hobbiest, so I don't need the absolute best tools money can buy, but I am willing to pay for a quality tool that has the warranty to back it up. It's nice knowing that if it fails I'll be able to have it replaced at no cost to me!

Very nice work! What WAS your donor car?

Amazing! It's nice to see a Z in one of the two colors I've been going back and forth on! The work looks top-notch, to say the least. Very impressive You're making me consider shaving the rear bumper all over again, even though I finally decided not to!

What's causing a $4500 quote for body work before paint?

I'm building a 327 for my friend's '65 chevy truck and was pricing the build out for him when I came across these heads online. After doing a little research it looks like the F-body guys have been having a lot of success with them. Several summit reps have confirmed that they're cast by Brodix and have given flow numbers that match the Brodix IK200 heads exactly, and visually they look the same minus the logo on the side. Here are some specs: Lift Intk Exhst 200 123 100 300 181 144 400 230 164 500 253 171 600 261 176 200cc intake runners 2.02/1.60 valves 64cc combustion chambers ARP 3/8" screw in studs with guide plates chromemoly retainers 7* locks Looks like a pretty decent head for the price of $1050! Here's the summit link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-162111/ Just wanting to give a heads up on these. It's likely what we'll be running. Does anyone have any experience with these?

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Did you pick up that rollbar from craigslist? It's been reposted a few times John was making the rails still last time I talked to him back in June. Shoot him an email at john@baddogparts.com. Why are you going with the n42? If it's a temp motor just toss the carbs on the p79 and run her as-is!

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Excellent! Can't wait to see the finished product!

ZWOLF, How does one go about buying pure gasoline?

They aren't commercially made yet. As of now it's going to be a custom thing, or you can wait for Derek to make his. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95416-starting-my-a-pillar-pod-gauge-mount/

I really wish we could go back to gasoline with no ethanol in it. I was seeing a 12% reduction in fuel economy when the switch was made, and remembered looking for the gas stations in town that hadn't made the switch. I'm very pleased to hear that the message has been brought to their attention!

I'd post the engine/trans locally on craigslist, and then become a donating member and sell the JTR kit here for most of what you paid for it ($250 shipped?). The exhaust you can likely modify at thew collectors to reuse with the LSx swap. What kind of cam do you have in it? I'm not totally sure on the value of the SBC though. Did you rebuild it yourself, or did you have shop do it? Receipts would be a nice bonus here. I'd look at what similar engines are selling for locally.

Swapping in a narrowed 8.8 is doable, but I wouldn't call it the easiest, cheapest, or quickest way of building a bullet-proof rear end Do some searching on swapping in an r-200 diff and building it up with CV axles and your choice of LSD unit. I really can't be of much help with your other questions / concerns since I don't know, well, anything about the coyote engine, but it sure sounds like a great and unique project!

Does anyone have these images saved? The links appear to be dead for me. edit: I don't know if these are the same images or not, but I found these over at viczcar! http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Misc/RS30_Chassis_Dimensions.tif http://www.shaun-maluga.com/Images/Z/Misc/RS30_Chassis_Dimensions_pdf.pdf

It all depends on your experience, skill level, and available tooling. There are some things you can do to save money if you have the know how and ability like making your own engine/trans mounts and oil pan. The easy answer is, no, you likely can't do an RB install for less than $3k. Expect to spend $1200+ on an oil pan and mounts alone. Search through the RB forums and people's build threads to see what people are spending their dollars on, and how many of them they're spending. Most basic swaps come in around the $4-5k mark, if I'm not mistaken. Take my numbers with a grain of salt, since it's been some time since I did my research on the RB swap. The cool factor is huge, but the $/hp is what turned me off of the swap, since I'm also a student with limited income.

If someone else here can't help you out sooner I have a spare set that have been media blasted and powder coated black

What weight of oil are you running now? How long until the new engine is done?

I'm running similar spacers, with a similar offset on my wheels, and they'll probably clear stock fenders when I roll them. I'm going to guess that you'll need a more negative offset. It's the backspacing and wheel width that play a big role. How much additional clearance do you get with your specific flare? Assuming the typical 2-2.5" I would look for something with a 0 to -10 offset for a 7 inch wide wheel. Search on wheel fitment with flares.

I wouldn't insure you Z for anything less than $15k. More realistically, I would ask myself how much would it cost to build another, and then go from there. If you go in with a few different price points in mind, you can see the difference in your premiums will be. Weigh that price difference vs. the amount of reassurance you'd have knowing that in the worst case scenario you could start completely over and not be out money wise. IMO, it's worth it to be over-insured, pay a little bit more every 6 months, and be in the absolute know that you're covered when some idiot on the road totals your baby and their insurance company tries to pull one over on you!

I sure hope you didn't accept that!