cockerstar

bump

Look here. Also, look here in accordance with this, specifically #2 (also #3 and #5).

My vote definitely goes for the 20B on this one

I figure this is a long shot here, but I thought I would see if anyone has these laying around, and no longer needs them. I'm looking to buy the front and rear bad dog frame rails for a 240z as well as an s30 spindle pin kit. Cash is in PayPal ready to go

The compressor I'm using is a 7.5 hp IR model with a refrigerated air dryer, so I'll have plenty of dry air to use! For blasting I have a trailer mounted IR P185 (185cfm) if I was to go that route, but I really, really don't want to deal with sand in every crevice of the body for the rest of forever! Hell, if I'm stripping the shell down this far, I might as well powder coat the whole underside, right Nelsonian, that's a pretty great price! I just found out that one of my fabrication buddies has one, and he let me borrow it! I'm going to try to play with it a bit and report back with how much I love it! Thanks for those pics! They will come in handy in about a month

Thanks for the tip on the crud-thug! It looks like snap on doesnt sell them anymore, and they infrequently pop up on eBay from time to time. After watching some videos, I think I'm hooked on it! TP tools does make a version that lists for ($200) half of what the snap on unit ($400) did, which I may look into. I have their blasting stuff for my powder coating, and it's some of the best I've used! A company that I've never had any experience with, MBX, makes a version that looks just like the snap on one as well. It's expensive, but I see myself using this thing a LOT in the future! Also, did you have any more pictures of your rotisserie? I'll be building my own, and am considering adding in 2 hydraulic rams for lifting, and making it adjustable to fit a variety of vehicles, mainly so I can sell it when I'm through with it

Sorry to hear about your wrists John! I can't imagine how frustrating that would be! I was always a die-hard fan of having a standard transmission, with the feeling that it made the driving experience more true or enjoyable. Then I drove a performance car with a modern automatic in it, and can see the appeal Personally, I'd be open to the option of having a shop swap in a newer automatic, and see if that makes things enjoyable again. However, only you will know what is right for you. Either way, I hope to keep seeing you post here!

And to find a 4 year old thread probably means he was searching It's a pretty common task to perform during a restoration, so I don't see any problems with bumping an old thread to add more information. I will be doing it this summer on a rotisserie, and my plan of attack starts out by stripping the sound deadener with dry ice. I've heard that this can help make the undercoating come off more easily. After that I'll move onto the undercoating with a torch and a scraper or a needle gun. I still haven't decided if I am going to soda blast on the paint, or use a chemical stripper and a DA sander to clean up what I miss.

Looking good Dave!

A Sounds like a simple miscommunication, and it's an easy fix.

What did you do to fix them? How do you like your fender mirrors? I've always written those ones off when seeing them on eBay, but they don't look so bad installed!

I have the carbs from a '71 (round top, 4 screw) without the linkage or manifolds to compliment what jyz77 has. PM me if you're interested

Try going at it with a carbide bit first, and then following up with the sander. I'd imagine that the casting flash would cut through those belts rather quickly! Where are you getting your rods from? I had come to the same conclusion when I was designing an over the top turbo build for a customer who wanted to "keep it all datsun" under the hood.

Lets see some pictures! Sounds like you're into new ground here for another rear brake option

That it did my friend, that it did!

Richard, the sugar water brewed in the dorms doesn't constitute wine Any tips/tricks/advice for the brewing noobs among us? It's something I want to try this fall!

I was always under the impression that breaking stock things gave an excuse to put in some wild performance replacements No aftermarket cam? The day looks/sounds like you had a blast!

Please, elaborate. I have zero qualms getting under a car on a stand/rotisserie I've built from scratch!

Ron, it sounds similar to the set-up I'm running on my Z right now I have Tokico Illumina shocks, with the 280z linear handling sprigs, cut as per John's sticky thread here. I did cut 1/2 coil more than he specified for a slight drop, and may go back and cut more. I'm also running 4-5 adapters, and I believe they are 2.5" thick. Let me know if you'd be interested in them, as I'm considering switching over to some rotas

PM sent

Looking good! I'm a fan of those barbed fittings

I know it isn't necessarily as applicable here, but my roommate is in the process of installing MS3 on his swapped BMW E30. He wanted it partly for the sequential injection/spark control to maximize his fuel economy when cruising (it is all but pointless at higher RPMs if you use non-HUGE injectors), but mostly for it's ability to control peripherals. He has VANOS (BMW vvt) and is going to be controlling it by using the controls intended to trigger nitrous at a set RPM. Doesn't really play a huge roll for out Ls, but I thought it was a pretty cool application. I watched him put the kit together, and it is pretty straightforward if you've built a circuit board before. I've etched/assembled my own for engineering projects, and wouldn't think twice about doing it myself.

Any pics of the panel after you used the eastwood flanging tool on it? Definitely something I would have liked to do when I patched mine! Make sure you stitch the panel in completely solid around to seal it. Take it slow with a copper backing bar and you shouldn't warp. Looking good so far!

You're going to need a lot more than what's listed in that kit. Very quick list off the top of my head Exhaust manifold: $100 Downpipe: $100 Standalone ECU: $400+ Injectors: $100 Fuel rail for injectors: $110 Wastegate adapter: $30 Welding labor to install the adapter: $50 ... We're already at $890 and the car isn't running yet, you have an entire turbo swap to install and wire, and you have to tune the car to run. If you want to turbo it as a "temporary" solution to run low boost, I would look for the turbo and all related accessories from a running 280ZX turbo car to swap onto your longblock and skip the universal Chinese kits on eBay.

It's a pretty simple process if it is in good shape and not dried out from the weather or overworn from a lot of driving. It may look like wood, but it isn't. The actual composition has been discussed quite a bit, and from the few I've redone I'm going to agree with those who say it's a synthetic/wood blend. The top layer sands and stains like wood, but if you get too deep it starts to behave more like plastic.