78Z/250GTO

look into rockauto.com It worked for me

Sorry to be unclear. About 1/8in of threads still exposed when tight. The OEM gland nut was tight to the tube with no exposed threads.It was this diff. that prompted my question. So I'm good to go Thanx again for the help Jim

Roger that, Thanx for reply Jim

1978 280Z -stock ride height, no mods to suspension . While replacing shock insert with proper KYB replacement ths gland nut doesn't fully seat. it only screws down to about 1/8th of full seating .Is this normal and OK . I could remove some material from the foot cone??? but that doesn't seem kosher.please advise JIM

I painstakingly just finished installing and testing a painless 14 hole generic hot-rod harness in my 78Z/250GTO.I too was new to auto electrics.I can only say work slow, read directions many times.. I installed a vintage' heater only' and the Painless light, wiper, and ignition switches w/ the floor high beam and the OEM turn signal switch. The painless kit does not include grounds, so I ran three ground trees one between the headlights.one inside the rear tail lights and one under the dash from door to door.All exterior or weathered connections I used marine grade shrink-wrap (harbor-freight).I moved the battery inside the drivers rear fender ahead of the antenna.and modified the plastic inner cover to hide it from view and battery posts only on the firewall. To me the unschooled this was a slow painfull job but in the end " to my suprise " it all worked JIM

I drove myself crazy looking for the same noise.reset valve train twice,I was ready to pull the motor for bottom end work but heard of the #6 exhaust leak and shonuf it was the exhaust gasket. pulled the manifolds cleaned it up, exhaust manifold face remachined flat new gasket ---sounded as new--

I don't know if its the same fit but I have one from a 78 that you can have for free plus shipping if it helps you

Kclank-----I am also using a pantera hatch on my build, differing only that my pantera and Z hatch will be interchangable at my whim.My question is lacking a spare well as mine is with a 16gal cell is there enough verticle height on the rear deck for a spare tire(not a donut) with the pantera hatch installed????? thanx in advance Jim

For those looking for other than original rear lamps. Take a look at factory five racings web site. The rear lights from their cobra roadster are close also look at austin healy 3000 1965 they are also close to the ferrari tail lamps. JIm

check rockauto.com Their prices are less than any used parts

I used the space behind the drivers side rear wheel well.Using the smaller glass-mat battery 820cca, it fit ok after you flatten the lower lip of the deck and fender joint.I passed cables forward to the old battery space after having romoved the old tray unit.I put a cut off switch behind the passenger seat and used the firewall mounted battery studs from summit so that I could have studs in the engine compartment.I modified a battery hold down brackett for it and melded the interior plastic trim piece to cover the battery and hide it from view. You only see a bulge like the one on the pass. side for the evap.tank

I sold my Z heater blower which was all rebuilt. I used the money to buy a Vintage Air bi-level heater/defroster from Summit 249.00. A small price to pay to prevent all the frustration I felt trying to make the stock unit work. Had I done this before, the 5 weeks blowing my brains out, would have saved much time and effort. The Vintage Air unit comes very complete and easy to install .I only had to make some brackets to hold it about 6inches away from the fire-wall ,It's very compact and fitment was no problem

I used the inside the frame coating from eastwood with its 18" 5 hole tip to spray all sorts of cleaners Primers and paint in areas that you could never get to without them.I even drilled a small hole and did inside my still solid dogsleg area then plugged it ...Jim

since my build is a 250GTO The Z dash is reskined with a GTO dash. I'm not using the Z headlight or wiper switches. I'm using dash switches. The heater blower switch, after 5 weekends of frustration finally went against the wall, I haven"t arrived at the turn signal highbeams level yet but I have an old Spitfire switch and floor highbeam switch just in case.I'll let you know if I am able to use the Z switch and how to hook it up.....very slow progress

I have a good pair from a 78 you can have. Just came and get them in Dover NH.PM me and I'll give you my number.

I am in the process of installing a painless harness in my 78Z V-8 build. I am using the 14 circuit generic hot rod harness. For the unschooled like myself it is very confusing and scary.Very slow and tedious but am making progress. all the wires are labled with printing my old eyes with bifocals and magnifing glass still have trouble seeing. shop lights don't make it and must have daylight but I am cooking along.. I.ll post progress if anyone is interested ............JIm

I too ran into this problem on my build. My solution was to replace the valving system with the old 240Z type mechanical valve and hook it to the slide control via a cable. the only drawback is that the slide control lever worka in reverse. cold is hot and hot is cold. this I can live with Jim

I got my rebuilt brake booster from rock auto give them a look

Ipressure tested my new core before install..it leaked.. sent it back and tested the 2nd one ok to prevent this problem. sorry to hear of the mess JIm

Yes the motor was for my 78Z.the completed motor was 4400.00.shiped.no issues

Ditto on that thought. Antifreeze from the heater area mixing with the carpet color and oozing out can make it look oilish.

Ditto on rock auto.com Bought one for my S30 plus they don't rape on the core charge Jim

I can turn a wrench as good as the next idiot that doesn't know what he's doing but I couldn't build a motor if someone held a gun to my head. Knowing this I bought a rebuild from Engine Factory.com. Its located not far over the GW bridge in north Jersey. I visited the place before dealing. I was impressed with their operation.They build what you want with what you want and build to order.The best part my dumb ass found was it was all set up and a video of it being per-run for 45 min at completion. Everything was per-set carb,choke valves etc. It was true plug and play. It took much of the mystery and misery out of the conversion. Check them out . At the very least your not dealing with some high school kid in his dads garage which is what I feared . Plus they are fairly closeby in the event of a problem. My experence was excellent Jim

I agonized for a long time before buying a quaife for my R200 3:36 diff. The cost is what killed me but in hindsightit was the best move on my 400hp chev V8 conversion. It wasn't cheap but bottom line --no problems--no worries.....JIM

I used electrical heat shrink tubes after cleaning the lines inside and out .Real easy since its all on the garage floor and can be manipulated any way needed..long pieces of various colors can be obtained in any auto parts store or Harbor Freight store. slipping them on can be a pain,bit the results looks great. I also took the oppurtinity to replace the dot3 with silicion fluid, its less caustic to finishes and doesn'ttend to absorb moisture like dot3.