jasper

what did you use to align the clutch disc???

Check for a bad headlight ground. Since both filaments share a common ground,voltage can back feed through the high beam filament, through the indicator bulb looking for a ground with LESS RESISTANCE. This can also happen with the turn signal indicator.

Since it's a junk yard motor,that may have sat for a while......... The clutch disk may be STUCK to the flywheel. I've seen it happen before. Try stepping on the clutch,put in top gear, then crank with starter, park brake on. May break loose. Or, start car in 1st gear, get it roliing fast,step on clutch pull up park brake,and maybe some gas .

In NEW JERSEY, we drive on the RIGHT side of the road http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right-_and_left-hand_traffic

1992 MB 190E 2.6. I bought it in a basket with a broken timing chain back in 2002 for $1,880. I redid the engine and it's never let me down. It's a little tricky in deep snow, and that's why I run 4 REAL snow tires. It's pretty darn quick and handles great. ANYONE have a set of Bilstein Yellow Sports laying around???

http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Mesh-014-Wire-Diameter/dp/B001CTWYMA

Get your battery tested.

You can GUESS ALL YOU WANT. Put it on an Alignment machine and the measurements will tell you EVERYTHING you need to know. There is no other way.

The pics are difficult to "READ". Washed out/lack contrast. It appears to be kinked in the sail panels. Easy pull for a good body man. RUST is the costly part. The last 2 pics are misleading. Almost all the cracks in the sound deadner run LENGHTWISE, not indicative of a compressive force from the rear(mostly plain old dried up 30+ year old cracking sound deadner) Get a RESPECTED/KNOWLEDGEABLE pro's opinion.

Question; Are you using the top, or bottom header (reference picture), for the DRIVER's side?

After reading this thread..........I am now confused as to who is actualy doing the ranting IMHO Chiltons always sucked. Motors Manuals was always my choice for the OLD back yard stuff. Factory is always BEST. I think the Haynes is not that bad for the S30.FSM better.

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=92

I'm still playing with the carbs on the 260Z. My 73 240z came out of hibernation..AND,..for $50.00 a year for insurance,it's on the road. Parking lot dings won't bother me on this one

"Sounds" like a head gasket. Check coolant level. Pull spark plugs and compare. Look for a clean plug, possibly indicating the bad cylinder(s). Look into the cylinders with a flash light to view the tops of the pistons ( may have to turn crank). The "cleaner" one(s) are generaly the ones that are blown. Or a compression test will work.

Put the trans in 4th gear and push/rock the the car. This will tell you if the engine is siezed. If the engine spins, I would look closely at the starter.

They WERE great cars. Easy to work on, RWD, parts are cheap, etc. BUT they are old technology. I would look for something FWD, good on gas, that will hold it's value, and be easy to resell. An old mid 90's 4cyl Camry wagon is great car/choice. Saturns are another cheap alternative.

IMHO, the guy in the BMW was an *******. Marque of the driven car irrelevant!! I couldn't imagine stopping in the middle of the road!!!, for damn near any reason other than an accident. The Mazda had a reasonable following distance, albeit on his ass (let's see what you got ?). They were both kick'n up a notch. Bmw guy had a chip on his shoulder,bigger than his right foot. NOTE: no penis inuendo. SYNOPSIS..Weiner in a BMW Please note: I piss all over anyone in my way, during the AM commute. And I happen to drive a 1992 (19 YEAR OLD)190E 2.6 BENZ Wish I had my son's G35X!!!

Well I didn't get to drive the Z to the show. I couldn't get the carbs right So after more SEARCHING, I found the info buried in posts on Classic Z Car. If you have SU's, this is a must see!!! SPECIAL NOTE: FRONT FLOAT SETTING DIFFERENT THAN REAR on '72 carbs!!

I now have the correct carb kits. Since I've been doing this stuff for over 30yrs, I didn't think I would need the Z therapy video. MY bad. No specifications in kits. No info in FSM on front vs rear carbs. The float bowls front to rear are different, but have the same specs . I've searched my ass off. I would realy like to drive my car to a show tomorrow. If you have the video, or the knowledge on DRY float level setup, I could use the help NOW. Thanks

If you suspect a vacuum leak..... They are much easier to find when the engine is running, as opposed to being disassembled. Have you tried the propane, or carb cleaner tricks??? I'm curious about the "feeling turbulence" comment. Are you feeling air movement?? If so...smoke from a cigarette or similar object shows movement very well. You can also pressurize the intake with shop air(Very low pressure) and look for leaks with a spray bottle of soapy water. Lots of tricks available. Don't overlook a crankcase leak, which essentialy is an internal vacuum leak. Also, disconnect the pcv valve, plug the breather, and check for crankcase vacuum, indicating a leak between the intake and crankcase.

I would expect you are DOUBLE flaring the ends.

Describe the noises and the vibration. From what I see, normaly this would not cause either symptom. How do you KNOW this is not a tire issue???

What is your warm idle speed?