Six_Shooter

Try this: Take a flat screw driver insert it into the ignition, and turn. As some ignitions get old and wear out, they will sometimes not lock. Or allow the key to be removed without the tumbler being in the lock position, which will allow a screwdriver or other flat object to then turn the tumbler. Yeah, I have a pretty decent start. I'll likely post it in the next day or two.

I can either start to add to a thread all about security. I install securoty and convience systems for a living. To start one will take me a bit though, as I have a couple other threads in the works as well, that I haven't had time to finish. *EDIT* Ok I've gone ahead and started writing the start to a security thread. I'm starting with basic information on different types of systems. I will then go into some specifics.

My car, which is an L28E (F54/P90 flat top pistons), Borg Warner turbo from a 6.5L diesel, non intercooled, N47 intake 30 lbs/hr injectors, GM EMS, with a still rough tune (rich pretty much accross the board) was able to get 25 MPG on the last tank, I know I can pull a lot more out of it once I get the tuning closer, switch it over to closed loop and enable lean cruise mode. I'm still swapping to a lighter powerplant in the future, but so far, I'm quite impressed with how this has turned out. There's something about an SR20DET in an S30 that is just so appealing though.

I vote SR20DET. It's definatly an intersting swap, lots of parts seem to be available, light, proven platform, would be easy to get 250+ HP out of one. If you don't like all the space, get a HUGE turbo and put it between the rad and engine, or shorten the chassis. I know at least one person has laid the rad back and place the IC above it, in a sort of V shape.

I have read that many strut inserts come with thier own gland nut. I recently installed some Tokico strut inserts and didn't have the matching gland nuts, since they were given to me mildly used. I used the gland nuts that were on the car, quite possibly the originals. The strut inserts did not snug up to the gland nuts. What I did was made spacers from 1/4" alumnium, that fit into the gland nut. Several hundred miles later, and no issues, just better riding and handling car.

I actually opposite, and find it to be a time saver. I open and inspect parts when I receive them to make sure everything is there, and in good shape, so that when it comes time to install it I know everything will be good to go. I put everything back in the packages once the inspection passes.

I didn't find it difficult to pull the hub to swap to disc. Just a slide hammer is all that is needed that might not be an "average" tool.

I always go 100 ft/lbs, been using that setting on EVERY vehicle I've owned, steel or aluminium wheel. I've never had a problem. Also if you have aftermarket wheels the manufacturer might recommend a different setting. 60 ft/lbs just seems so low.

What is "JGTC"? I had seen pictures of that car a couple months ago IIRC. IMO it looked FAR better in the red than the silver. The "panel" look is hard to look at and is too busy.

If you're going to be (almost) strictly drag racing, I'd swap in a solid rear axle. The contact patch between the tire and track surface will not change on launch, giving the highest amount of traction at the launch where it's needed.

Is the 260 pedal different than the 240 pedal? My 240 pedal had like a 1/2" shaft on it, took som great force to bend it a bit while clamped in my vice.

COOL! It's better than what happens around here. If a car is stolen, it's usually driven to certain locations and then burnt.

LOL, I've even thought about doing that too. At one time when I was into GM J-bodies, I had planned on converting a Cavalier Wagon to RWD, just to to basically use as a truck/SUV deal and tow with. The only thing is I use a full car trailer, not a dolly. Cool picture.

That's pretty sweet, but not what I would want my tow vehicle to do.

She's ok, I'm trying to teach how to work on cars, she wants to learn, but sometimes, it's straining my paitence.

Yeah that's pretty much exactly what I was thinking of, the front end has a 510 look to it. You're not helping. Maybe in a few years once I get some other projects out of the way, like my truck, my Bike, the T-bucket (I WILL Be driving that next year.) and a few other things I ned to get done, I'll consider actually finding one. I think I'll need to buy the Mustang for Allison before buying another project vehicle, would probably help smooth things over getting another project.

So as some of you know, I bought my first Z back in January. I've done quite a bit to it, still lots to go. Anyway I bought a ZX for parts a little over a month ago, it's already gone... Now, partialy thanks to a thread on another site, I'm considering trying to find a Datsun pick up, I don't recall which model, and it's probably best that I don't otherwise if I put a "Name" to it, I may follow through. I currently have a 1985 GMC Jimmy, that I'll be doing a power plant conversion on, I had a turbo V6 in it for a while, and that was fun, I pulled it apart to upgrade the heads and intake, then it became upgrade the entire engine deal, now I'm going a different direction with it, and I will complete it, since I have too much money in the body to just abandon the project. I just can't help but look at the Datsun pick-ups and think how great it would be to pull my Z to the track with a Datsun pick up.

LOL, yeah the increased size of the crank pulley will help at idle, which I'm thinking about swapping from the 280ZX engine I have in to my 240, to get better idle charge. I already have the smallest pulley I can on the alternator now. Dayz, yes I have the complete engine here, has an alternator on it.

A larger alternator pulley would not help at idle. A larger pulley on the alternator will slow the RPM of the alternator compared to using a smaller pulley.

Yeah I've driven cars with rust worse than that. Doesn't look all that bad, especially considering teh floor bottoms still have paint on them.

I concur, it looks like a '73. Check the battery tray and the passenger frame rail for rust/rot. It will be difficult to get a true idea of condition underneath until it's moved from it's current location and you get under it. Snatch it up and get it back to running condition.

I concur, looks like a '73. Check the battery tray, and passenger frame rail for rust/rot. It'll be difficult to get a true idea of what it's like underneath until you get it out of it's current dwelling. n

Looks good, I did go back and look a little closer at the pictures and thought that you might have trimmed around the harness, but wasn't sure. That would be killer, I've seen the body colour matched covers on other cars and it pretty much always looks good. Can you use a passenger side cover on the driver side? That would fill in those two fuel line slots easily if you could.

Yep theives suck. I had my truck broken into not two weeks after getting painted and put together. It was the police that woke me up to let me know that it had happened, they caught the guy in my truck, so nothing went missing, but enough damage to the doors and paint to piss me off to no end. My Grandfather lost a mildly done up '85 S-15, SBC, aluminium slot wheels, custom paint, it was his daily driver. Came out in the morning and it was gone. It did end up being found about a week later stripped. pretty much nothing left. A few years later they tried to grab my Grandfathers '90 Ranger, but all they did was break the window and damage the ignition cylinder, still annoying, since I had to replace the window, which is not an easy task in those trucks. I hear everyday how someone's vehicle is stolen, I install Automotive security systems and people will come in for estimates on replacing the audio systems, and accessories for the insurance company, and then usually the first thing done to the new vehicle is a security system. It only seems to be getting worse.

What did you have to trim? Around the AFPR fitting? I'll also make a suggestion. Make a cover for the PCM, to cover up those connectors. Something simple that could be slipped over the PCM would really help compliment the covers you just added.