Six_Shooter

I'm just wondering what complaints are associated with 3" exhaust systems? Why only 3"?

A turbo that is not spooled (compressing air) does not add any heat to the intake charge, the compression of the air is what adds the heat. Like I said in my last post the intake air temp rose from 118 to 142*F during the run, and then cooled down quite quickly after letting off the throttle. Not all BOVs vent while at idle, infact it is more desirable in most cases that they are closed, at idle, so that when a quick change in throttle position will help with pressurizing the intake tract quicker. Not that most people would noticed the few milliseconds of difference between a BOV that does vent at idle and one that doesn't. Also an open BOV at idle will usually be pulling air IN, not blow it out. The air passing through the turbo and IC might be slightly warmer than ambiant, only due to heat soak of the turbo, which after looking at the ALDL display showing me intake air temp and using my laser temperature gun to check temp of the compressor housing it would verify the theory that the air is moving through the compressor housing too fast, even at idle to get heated from the warm compressor housing. IIRC the MAT temp display was just over 100*F, and the compressor housing itself was over 140*F. My air filter is attached directly to the front of the compressor withthe exhaust manifold right beside it, that was well over 300*F, so I would say the hot exhaust manifold had more of an influence on air temp at that point than the turbo itself. Besides, what does it matter how cool the air is at idle?

I completly read your post before scrolling down to the pictures and expected to see some abomination.... I don't, it doesn't look bad. I think the part that makes it look weird, is that the front is higher than the back and it tapers down to the cowl area. If it were to continue back more parallel with the hood, more like a cowl hood idea, the front edge wouldn't look so prominant. Another idea I see that could work well, is to extend the bubble towards the front of the hood and bridge the hole there. Now before you scoff, I'll try and eplain how to make it functional and look good. So basically the "buldge" could be extended at the width that it is now, accross the vent, and some distance down the front of the hood to make it blend smooth. Then on the underside where the vent is, another piece can be added to direct air flow around the bubble, basically taking the vent and splitting it into two. I think this would also help from creating a pretty flat area right at the back of the vent too, that could effect the way the vent works. I think even with the bubble that you show, the air flow would be more diverted to either side as it is.

At the point the BOV is "used", the IC has already had the warmest air ran through it. Just as an example, I was looking at a datalog from a run at the track the other night and was interested in the intake air temp. The temp rose quickly from 118*F to 142*F over the time of the run, and started to fall when I closed the throttle. Now I can't say how quickly the air temp dropped where the IC will be (currently not installed), since my MAT sensor is installed in the intake plenum and not the intake plumbing, but my point is, the heat soak will already have occured.

In any test I've seen where BOV placement was tested, there was no difference in power output, re-spool, ETs or turbo stall no matter where the BOV was placed in the piping between the turbo and IC.

There's nothing wrong with mounting the BOV on the IC tank. Subaru WRXs come this way, along with a few other vehicles that I can't think of right now, and many fabricators do this as well with ICs that are not mounted in the interior. The pressure in the IC tank will be equal to what is in the tubing.

A guy on another forum I frequent has that as his AV, and has for a while now, maybe it's him.

Tod's car just keeps popping up as insipartion for a lot of people, it was the Turbo magazine article that made the decision to to buy an S30 for me.

Mine is in a similar location. I don't have my IC installed yet, just a "bypass" where the IC will be going. Depending on space constraints, I may need to attach the BOV(s) directly to the IC tank(s).

It's actually been done quite a few times. I have a video of a twin engine tiburon that has turbos on each engine, runs a 10.something. Both engines are stock, except for the turbos. At the end of the vidoe the owner puts one engine in a forward gear, and teh other in reverse, that was a cool smoke show! Cooling is not that much of a problem. I used to think that the weight would be a factor too, while yes there will be more overall weight, each engine only needs to move half the chassis weight instead of all of it. So if the car ended up weighing an extra 750 lbs (approximate weight of a transvers engine and tranny), add that to an exsiting 2500 lbs chassis, that's 3250 lbs total weight, so instead of that engine pulling 2500 lbs it now only needs to pull 1725 lbs, each, with twice the power, overall as well.

The biggest issue would be the rear engine would be where the seats are. Would need to use a 2+2 and then probably stretch it. The front axle line would likely need to be moved back to make space for the front engine as well.

HAHAH, that's awesome. Wish there was a split screen with an exterior view.

I blame him for a lot of my modifications as well, the only difference I got some of mine from him, so not only can he be that little devil on your shoulder, he can be the Mr. Pusherman too.

Its the way the grey and white look compared to the rest of the house. The shading/shadowing just doesn't look like it matches the rest of the shot. Even the joint between the chimney and the house looks odd. I'm not saying that I believe it's 'chopped, it just looks that way. The grey and white are too perfect, almost like it's sampled from a colour pallet. If I had seen that picture without the others I would be very confidant that it was 'chopped, again just due to the way the colours of the addition/refacing look. It might be due to being overcast, at least it looks that way as well, that can cause some odd lighting effects sometimes.

X2!

Is it just me or does that last picture look photoshopped?

Nope the dizzy can go in at pretty much any point in rotation. The slot you are seeing is the oil pump drive shaft and can be rotated to any position. I use a long large flat blade screw driver to adjust where it is to re-install the dizzy, can take a few tries to get it right.

Yeah, I didn't mean to dispute that, I was trying to build on that, I guess I should have been a little more clear. I agree that adding a real time tunable EMS, or modifying an OEM EMS to allow for real time tuning allows for a whole new learning and sometimes enjoyable experiance. It's nice to see just what you can do with a bone stock engine, to pull a few more ponies out of and/or a few more MPG, with a tune taylored more to the particular engine in your car and not the "safe tunes" used by the OEMs to reduce warrenty claims. Using the stock engine you don't really need to worry about damaging it, since there won't be a whole lot of money invested in the engine itself to start with. See what you can do in stock trim, then make the engine breath a little better, better intake, higher flow exhaust, etc, then see what tuning changes will be needed at that time. It can be pretty interesting. Most of the engines I've tuned were after some major changes were made, high compression, large power builds, or turbo(s) added, with no stock tuning done previously, but I like to jump in with both feet. Tuning the EMS side can be a lot of fun, I enjoy it.

As mentioned or eluded to by Wolson, there are other areas that should be addressed before building/buying a stroker motor. You could have a long stroke engine, but if you can't get the fuel and air into and out of those engines, all you'll end up with is a poorly performing stroker, and leave a bad taste in your mouth about strokers. The one thing to learn and learn and learn again, and then remond yourself of, is that the bottome doesn't make power, the tope end does. More specifically a better flowing top end will allow an engine to breath better getting more air and fuel through the engine, the bottome end is only built to handle this (potential) power. I would much rather use a stock stroke, even unopened engine, that has improved breathing capabilities than to use possibly mismatched internal components. Being well thought out and using components that will match what is really going on now what we all want (Lots of power, with exceptional milage and for cheap). To say "I have a stroker" is some what of a misnomer, and only for wowing those that are uniformed in most instances. For all intents and purposes the L28 is a "stroker motor" It's based on an older engine that was "stroked" (and bored) to increase displacement, many other engines have followed this through the years, SBC, GM 60* V6, Buick V6, SB Dodge, SBF, and just about any engine that has had revisions in displacement over the course of production. Stroking is a fairly easy way to increase torque output, and is why many people choose to use longer stroke over a shorter stroke engine in many cases, but two engine, prepared the same one with longer stroke, than the other the engine with the longer stroke will usually have a lower red line. This is not neccisarily a bad thing. In some cases revving an engine to the moon may not be what is needed for the application. Case in point, take street driven vehicles, that see most of thier time at idle or low RPM cruise and accel, so why does the engine need to rev to 9500 RPM? To impress friends saying "Yep that there B26dettsuperfangledwhatzit has a 9500 RPM red line" while thier buddies standing at the local burger joint all say "ooooooooo" in unison. The owner will forget to mention that he has to rev it to 3000 RPM to get it to move the car from a standing start. On the flip side longer stroke engines tend to have a higher piston speed, and because of this the forces on the componets such as the rods, crank thows, bearings, even the block itself, and can cause "earlier" failure of components because of this, stress anything too much and it will fail. There are compromises in building an engine, be it turbo, N/A nitrous, supercharged or some combination, most important is match the final outcome to how the will will be used in reality. We would all like to have a 1000+ HP engine that gets a broad or flat and wide torque curve, that never shows signs of valve float, choking, and getting good milage, but in reality this doesn't happen.

Look in the classifieds here and on classiczcar.com.

I say drop the GF, if she is going to get pissed and hold onto that anger for 18 or so hours over something so small, imagine what will happen if you really do something wrong. I shiver at the thought. Then keep the Z(x), you know you'll look back later in life, married (to a different woman) and say to yourself: "Self, I really wish I had kept that car and not sold it for those wrong reasons I did, back when I was young and stupid." Don't worry no matter how old you get you're always young and stupid, in previous years, that age just seems to get larger in number the older you get. BTW, it sounds like the dizzy is installed a tooth or two out.

Done correctly, a cage would not be needed.

I had this problem on an R200 I pulled from a parts ZX, I was able to get 7 of the 8 to break loose, with using lots of penetratig fluid, and a lot of leverage. One broke, and will need to replace it, if I decide to use it. Do the stubs that are in the diff just pull out?

Looks good.

Well that sucks. Congrats on the personal best though.