Six_Shooter

That is effing sweet! I really like the colour.

I used AA Auto Transport when I bought my Z. http://www.aa-auto.com/

Heck at $80, I'll step on your toes, poke you in the eye Stooge's style, and dump some baking powered you, take pictures of it and post them all over OZC and HybridZ, if you don't buy it. Grab it and learn on it, it's a VERY good machine for doing that. I've welded countless engine mounts with mine (those 3400 swap mounts for J-bodies), my exhaust for the Z, along with countless other parts, and all have worked out well. I even welded some ladder bars and part of a frame for a T-bucket (not ours, another one), it's a gret little machine for steel.

At first all I noticed were way too many stickers, so I started reading them, when I got to the "2.4 LITER" sticker I was like "WTF?" Then looked at the rear quarter window, and then at the doors and went "AH HA!". Yeah less than awesome. I rank this up there with ANY car that uses Corvette rear end that is not a Corvette. I've never understood installing complete sections of another car like this.

That's a good question. I have an Econotig, and haven't thought about Torch replacement yet, since I got it new and it still looks pretty much new. The welding supply house I deal with down here seems to be pretty good for prices. I'll have to get you the number. Are you planning on welding aluminium? If you are I'd suggest looking at Synchrowave. The Econotig does ok with thicker aluminium, but thin (less than about 1/8") is pretty much out of the question, even with thicker it's kinda tricky. On Mild and stainless steel it works great though.

Looks like someone already has taken it upon themselves to make these brackets available.

The only thing that needs to be done is to retain the outer CV joint to keep the bearing together. The load will not change on the bearing with or without the shafts in place.

I can't say with absolute certainty, since I haven't tried it myself, but everything I've read on the subject would indicate that yes you can use a 225mm clutch and flywheel in place of the 240mm counterparts. FWIW, I'm using a stock 225mm flywheel and a Center Force Dual Friction in my car and is holding fine, with my higher than stock HP, I don't know how much higher just yet, but 5 PSIG of boost will add some umph to the go.

Yeah, I kept the ZX shaft when I pulled the tranny, just in case, got it home, compared them, they were virtually identical, the original shaft to the car was in better shape so I kept it.

You shouldn't need a different driveshaft. I'm still using the original shaft to my car that was behind the automatic. I also used the 4-speed shifter as well, to have it come up through the original shifter boot in the proper spot.

Not a movie, does involve a politcal figure, kinda cool none the less. But at about 6:05 there is a red S30 in the back ground. BTW you guys are a bad friggen influence, I'm now spotting S30s everywhere. http://sports.espn.go.com/broadband/video/videopage?videoId=3578032&categoryId=3060647&n8pe6c=3

I added a fitting to the drain plug in my 240 tank, running to a Walbro 255 LPH inline pump and have not had any fuel starvation problems thus far.

Although the specific chassis hasn't been mentioned, I would have to assume that it's similar to the WRX/Impreza chassis. I was going to buy an Impreza wagon at one time that had a bad engine (needed it's 4th head gasket in two years). I measured it up for a V6, that is about half the length of the RB, and there was no way it would fit into the Impreza, without lengthening the front end. This was using the Subaru driveline. Using a different driveline that placed the engine farther back in the chassis would have worked, but too much work for my intended use of the Impreza, since that would require the installation of a transfer case, that would mean floor modifications that may or may not be feasible.

Actually that's incorrect, the throwout bearing, or more specifically the sleeve needs to match the clutch set-up being used. If a 4-speed clutch is used, such as in a 4-speed to 5-speed swap, than if the 4-speed clutch is being left alone, the 4-speed throwout bearing sleeve needs to be used. If a 5-speed throw out bearing sleeve is used with the 4-speed clutch, the clutch won't engage properly since the 5-speed sleeve is longer than the 4-speed sleeve. Agreed, but I've found recently that the "wrong" speedo drive gear gives an accurate speedo reading, verified with a GPS system. Although I am now wondering if my diff has been swapped to a different diff because of this. I need to get under there and check. Using a GPS is the best way to verify which speedo drive gear is most accurate.

This was from auto to 4 speed, but I just replaced the 4 speed with a 5-speed and was a simple re&re at that point. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134300 If you're swapping from an existing 4-speed, just pull out the 4 speed and replace with the 5-speed. They fit just the same.

I'm not sure I would trust something like that. I've bled brakes until I was sure there was no air left only to find that there was a small pocket, I discovered this at about 30 MPH, coming up behind someone. Is there maybe a way to design the system so that the master stays attached to the chassis and you disconnect a rod between the pedal and master, or better yet the pedal also stays attached to the chassis?

Don't worry, I'm a professional. I know how to use this stuff. BTW, the glue I have has an accelerant that cures it instantly, maybe quicker.

Pssst, Jerry, The MAF is made of, are you ready for this? It's...it's plastic. Seriously though I have some glue that is a CA based glue (Cyanoacrylic) that seems to glue anything to anything, including youself to..umm yourself. How soon do you need/want this to be done? I can bring the glue with me when I come your way next, just not sure when exactly that will be.

Picture is worth 1273 words. The T5 was not the only tranny to use a prop shaft with a square flange. The '81 I just took apart for the 5 speed tranny also had a square flange, that matched up with my '73 prop shaft. It was not a T5. Since you say it looks like the N/A tranny I would say that it is not a T5. T5 could mean just about anything.

I'm glad you bumped it, I recalled reading a thread like this (Most likely this very one) and when I was seraching for it, I couldn't find it. I remembered seeing the video of the window in action that 78zlt1 posted. Now saved in my I.E. favorites.

So you're willing to spend extra money on a pump that may or may not work, while planning to buy a new one anyway, why not just skip the interim problem and go for new, saves time and money.

x2 A 255LPH Walbro can be purchased for less than $150 shipped from http://www.expressfuelpumps.com/. This is where I bought mine from and have been very happy with it. I also modified the drain plug to be my new pick up, and seems to be working very well.

I find that "corner carving" has less to do with the engine used, and more to do with the selection of wheels, tires and suspension, even chassis stiffening has more influence than the engine. An experiance engine swapper can cut the needed funds down, but this takes very in depth knowledge of what needs to be done in each swap, what parts can be pirated from where to keep the expenses down and what can't be, and needs to have the money spent on it. Starting with the L28 and turbo charging it or swapping a complete L28ET in, is a great learning experiance, and will surprise you and others with the final performance. There's also a few ways to complete the swap.

The L28 was always EFI, be it rudementary EFI, but EFI none the less. The L-series from inception (AFAIK) to demise was cast iron block, with aluminium head. Volumetric efficiency is a buzz term that gets thrown around and only very few people truely understand it. Don't rule out an "old tech" engine, just because it's old. So far it gets better milage than my 1998 Malibu, by a LONG shot. The Malibu has a 3.1L V6, so not much difference in displacement, both have 2 valves per cylinder, and while the GM 60 degree v6 is one of my favorite engines, I'm VERY impressed with this 30ish year old L28 I have in my 240 right now. Myself I prefer a cast iron block, for reasons that I don't have time to explain right now, but just start looking around on the interweeb about the down falls of aluminium blocks, and compare it to the benefits and the cast iron block looks to be prefered for anything more than a 10 second or less jaunt down the drag strip. I'm using EFI on my engine, which as it came to me was carburated. using some Weber downdrafts. I'm using GM EFI to run it and it runs it well, inexpensive and once you get the hang of it easy to tune. "Performance" and comparing it to other engines can be a tricky thing, there's more to performance than just peak HP and torque. There's also longevity, reliability, and a whole slew of other factors that can change the overall "performance" rating of an engine.

Hehe, Thanks! Yeah I'd have to tally it all up, but I think I'm $1500ish into the conversion. I'm currently only running 4 to 5 PSIG seems to creep to 5 PSIG more often than not lately. At this level just about everyone that has sat in the passenger seat or been in a quick car where I've been able to keep up or pull on has been impressed. I happy with it, but the car is starting to feel slow again, my speedo says otherwise. 0-60 is fast, too fast, yet it's still not fast enough. I plan to turn up the boost more once I get the intercooler made and installed. for now I'm just going to tune at the boost level I'm currently running. I only turbocharged the L28 that's in my 240, because it's something to play with for now, until I get the V6 that I eventually plan to run built and installed, along with the chassis to support the planned power level. Now I'm glad I turbocharged the L28, it's been fun and I learned quite a bit about the L-series in the process, more than I wanted to know actually. Don't rule out the turbo L-series.