AZGhost623

This coming up summer in 2014 Im looking to tear down my engine and upgrade it. I have no idea how this previous builder built this engine, and so far I have found many shortcuts and other issues that I am not comfortable with. So I am going to rebuild it all. My first phase is going to just pull the head, and send it off out of state for some head work by a respectable shop. Big Valve modification, with the 46/38 setup, port match and polish intakes and exhaust, along with the valve unshrouding and other stuff that goes along with this mod. I am told it will take 3-4 weeks so I can get it back and enjoy it on the car until phase two comes along. My second phase is going to be redoing the block in spring/summer next year. I have two ideas, and don’t know which would be the better way of doing things, so I am hoping for someone to chime in who knows better than I do. All pistons/rods will be forged, and light weight with ARP hardware. Being built to last! My first thought is to reuse the OEM crank. Bore out the engine to 89mm, and use a short height piston with a pin height of 29, flat tops with valve pockets, and a long FJ20 type rod of 140mm correctly bushed. According to engine calculators this gets me a 1.77 rod/stroke. I realize this is a custom type piston, and a few people sell this type of setup. MLS Cometic gasket 1mm will be used as this setup is over deck by .65mm This seems to be a rare setup in my neck of the woods and none of my local Datsun clubs have info on this. My second thought is to go normal stroker with the V07 crank which comes out to a 1.65 rod/stroke using the standard components with this kind of build. Either way the crank either OEM or V07 will be balanced and lightened as well to work with whatever components I chose to go with. This will then tie into my EDIS system, lightweight flywheel and other mods I have already added from last year. Obviously going the OEM route with the crank will be the more affordable route rather than trying to find a stroker crank. So running the long rod/short piston combo is more appealing to me to save on some costs, and get a better stroke. My questions are: is there any benefit going the full stroker route over the long rod/short piston setup? What are the pro's cons? can I upgrade my head now so it flows better, and make use of how my high compression setup is today without any adverse side effects? Am I missing anything? My ultimate goal is a nice quick street car using the L28, I really like it a lot. I was hoping to do this in phases so I can save on the costs over time rather than one big dump of cash out of my pocket. Thank you! **EDIT** This will be non-aspirated, no turbos.

I sent those guys an email last night asking some questions on their parts. They sent me quite a few emails back including their catalog and said no problem shipping to US. In a additional email he sent after the catalog, contained lots of pictures/videos and info on his personal car that runs a 10 second 1/4 mile on his 'house parts' http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Csm2_xqjQ0Y This car, "Big Green" is apparently the big brother to the Wood Village S30. Without a CAD file, or knowing all the mechanical specs of the crank Im think I would get very far with LA Billet/Crank. I dont think an 86mm crankshaft for an L28 is going to get me very far without more specific details.

This caught my eye.. Original super short pin height forged pistons (89mm/89.25mm/89.5mm) Pin Height 26.8mm pin diameter 20mm new design on eye only. Long beam connecting rod weight 430g, core material 138.5mm 86mm full counter crank.List price at the time is ¥865,200 ($8700 ish US). All custom made by these guys. Its a real shame there isnt a specialty place in the US that can do things like this. Would love to get their N42 SPL head, which is half the cost of the Kameari SPL head it looks like... Sold and manufactured by these guys: http://www.as-watanabe.com/

I was being a bit facetious with the ruler comment, I assumed it was some special tool. Measuring them out while installed, they are at different heights. I assume thats in relation to the valve stem length since its being held up by retainers from the new springs? Should I check it again in a few weeks after driving it to see how the springs react to being hot and cooled? I retained the stock shims that were previously installed. If I need to replace the shims, is there a kit out there that has various shim sizes? I only had 1 intake that measured out correctly out of all 12.

I met up with a guy locally today to have some joint help work done on my car. While wandering through his parts pile, I saw a custom triple SU manifold. I asked him if thats what it was, and indeed it was he said. He said he might consider parting with it, but it was custom made, its all chromed out, and he said he wouldnt part with it for less than 2500$... first time I saw one, and reminded me of this post...

Thats exactly how I have always looked at it, and used to my advantage on tuning my setup, not just at AFR for high rpm, but in general on the main jet itself. After some serious head work today on fixing some spring problems, my AFR's are now slightly off and Ill need to play with it a bit. But while I had my sparkplugs out, for the first time in months, they were all perfect a very nice light tan color on the insulator! After the fix on my springs (new Schneider high lift double springs, retainers, and keepers), my cruise home on freeway at 3500 rpm/80mph Im now low to mid 14's AFR now. Previously, as I was dead center in 13's before the fix. My WOT is now way to rich into the low 12's, and I need to use an air corrector, and it will fix that right up IMO. I guess what Im trying to say is that even the smallest change, changes a lot of other things. Wait what? Can you elaborate on this a bit on why he feels all his work has him now second guessing?

Yep I sure did. I just got done replacing all that stuff so hopefully I should be good to go now. The lash pads determine where its wiping at on the lobe.. Have no idea what my installed height is.. how do you measure that? Just get out a ruler? lol

I tried f-7's, were great up top but I had to run 205main and 180 a/c to get 13:1 afr's at WOT and it was 10:5 at cruise causing rich stumble on cruise. A guy in my neighborhood who drives a 911 suggested a F3's which is what I worked around, and it seems to work great for mysetup. I didnt play with F7's for very long tho... I later found out from TJ, F11's were recommended by Rebello which is what he is running. When comparing the two thats when I found out they are near identical except for the .5 smaller diameter. F11 does seem to be the goto tube if you look at the majority on here with their setup.

95% of the time you drive on the idles, even when your on the highway cruising, your still on the idle jets. The only time you get onto the main jets is when your giving it some heavy pedal. Sudden WOT the pump jet also plays a role by doing a bit of an extra squirt of gas. This is covered in some early posts in this thread too. It took a long time of testing to find out where the best transition was going from idles to mains. Make sure to document everything you change/try along the way.. Every engine is setup differently and this is what my engine liked. The other thing is that the idle jets are somewhat tunable too, since you have the screw that directly affects the idle which I found to be helpful. From previous posts anything more than a 1/4 turn and your idles are too small. Etubes also play a very important role in how your main jets come on. In my opinion your etube should be either a F11 or F3 (almost identical tubes, with the exception of F3's are .5mm smaller diameter, all holes are same diameter and in same spots) As far as gas milage goes... as long as I am not heavy footed its not bad

Whats your pump jet size? When you mash the pedal, the pump jet kicks on to give an extra burst of fuel, it may not be doing enough with the bigger choke. The pump jet is specifically related to a very sudden change in vacuum. You may need to look at this part in helping your transition, but other than that it sounds like your on the right track. I run a 36 choke on my DCOE 152, and I have very large idles to help in my transition, I run a 70F9 in addition to a larger pump jet (55)

So I got my parts in, and the box it came in was a bit confusing contradicting the website. So I sent Jerry an email over at schneider, and he responded pretty quick. The hy-doubles part 68025 says on the box 110# seat pressure. But on the website it said 125#. Jerry responded saying that lash pads at 1.75 = 110# and at 1.70 = 125#. Why would smaller lash pads equal more spring seat pressure especially at such a small difference in size?

i think I may have found some, I paid someone on here for them, but since I paid, I have yet to hear anything or receive anything... I hope I dont get ripped off...

well I am replacing the retainers, and and springs with brand new parts from schneider. So hopefully that will make a difference. Plan to tackle it this weekend and hopefully have some really good results afterwards with no more failures like that.

its got stock retainers it in now..

So two weeks ago this happened AGAIN. Another rocker popping off. This time I was stranded and had to be towed home engine wouldnt run at all. I fixed it again the next day, and I set all the valves to 8 thousandths from what a local datsun mechanic told me, and compression tested all cylinders which tested to be between 220-230 across all 6. So I have no clue about this valve train. All I know is that it supposedly has this cam (spec sheet attached, which I doubt because of no rough idle), the P90 head has been shaved .080 with the shims and such. I have since ordered from Schneider new double hylift springs, and new retainers. Should I get new lash pads (what size?) and rockers as well? All the rockers look just fine from what I could tell I didnt see any weird wipe patterns or damage on the rockers or cam. I Appreciate any kind of assistance to help get my valve train setup right.

i've always wanted to know if electrAmotive and electrOmotive are one in the same... ?

This car isnt a DD. I drive my Titan through all kinds of crap. Comparing the two isnt really a good comparison IMO... My Z see's a lot of driving when the weather is awesome, with no long trips.... maybe about 300-500 miles a year on it and only during the Arizona Fall/Winter months. I do like the idea of the quick removable air filters tho...

yeah thats kinda what I figured... thanks!

still looking! Bueller? Bueller?

Those are Nissan Part numbers... I bought the maxima kit from someone who sold it here as a complete bundle. You can find others who sell it too. I would use a picture of what it looks like to crossreference it on rockauto if you can. Thats how I did my toyota calipers up front. silverminemotors.com, and so does datsunpartsllc.com sells the bracket too...

Is it bad to run these without any kind of filter on them? I see all the JDM youtube videos and almost every one of them dont have filters. I drive mine maybe about an hour or so a week if that, and only when the weather is good. Its not a daily driver, but some of my local datsun club guys are freaked out I do this and think Im going to ruin my engine. If Im not tracking it where its going to get rubber bits sucked up, I dont see the harm.

rockauto.com

yep, waiting on your shipping numbers and where to paypal!

AFR gets leaner because of more air being drawn in, interacting with your fuel supply at WOT. Your choke size can be ok, its doing just that choking down the air flow, you just have to match your jets to it, which from the sounds of it, something is too small or delivery isnt right (etubes). What are your settings on your main circuit for your carbs? Size Jets? Tubes? Air Correctors? I think the consensus is you want somewhere around 3psi for fuel pressure. Mine is dead on at 3psi with a Carter 4070 fuel pump.

Looking to buy a set of two interior door panels in good to excellent condition. The door lock position must measure 5" from the end. See picture for example.