AZGhost623

Got my new chokes in, and decided to double check everything again. and now Im fighting another problem. Can someone post a picture of what their pedal linkage from the firewall to the "rod" on the webers? Apparently from the changes I did, now the pedal has play in it. This is a problem because I have an old clutch spring attached to the pedal near the firewall to return the carbs all the way "up". Well the pedal is all the way "up" Since there is now "play" in the rod, the carbs dont return all the way up on their own because the spring isnt doing squat now. This leads to a 2000+ idle after a quick blip of the carbs. This whole linkage system is just not really constructed well imo. Its the standard linkage that comes with a weber kit and I have it going right to the standard throttle bar attached to the pedal. watch how I can blip it and the pedal itself on the firewall doesnt move. also I have my idle screw backed all the way out, its barely doing squat and its idling at 1200rpm. All idle screws backed out but, its not adjusting very well. I have removed all idle screws but one, so I just have one adjusting all three. I adjusted all the linkages, and made sure I still had a "half" covered first progression hole and that really appears to be what has messed things up. By making that "half moon" on that progression hole it has advanced the idle quite a bit. Apparently I was off before and now its correct. Should it really be setup that way?? or is that more of just a performance setup? http://youtu.be/0pq7RDh3C-U

Yep I was educated on that over at side draft forums. What do you think of my AFR's on the idle circuit when cruising? Too high? Where should they be?

I was just referring to the Datsun ECU/AFM =) sorry I wasnt clear enough. Its very clear other cars out there had the ability to do it but they were all very limited and specific without any tuning ability like you can do now by changing maps/curves and things. Thats more of what I was getting at.

Ah heck, for the hell of it here is what it cost me just on engine parts. Rounding up. That doesnt even come close to my entire build project. Engine (includings sourcing F54/P90 and rebuilding it the way I wanted) $2800 Triple Weber 45's, Intake manifold, and electronic ignition: $2800 2.5" Coated 3-2 Header $300 4 core radiator $212 Clutch Stage 2: $320 10lb Flywheel: $300 Fuel Pump: $200 Thats considering you DIY. I think thats very reasonable. I am still fighting jet sizes and things. Have no idea where my HP is going to be at. I have a very reasonable goal in mind, but I dont dare post what it is based on getting my dreams killed early =)

Im going through a similar setup with 45 DCOE's. You might want to check out the FAQ's here. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/28318-weber-jetsall-who-live-for-their-triples-please-read-this/

Tweaked a few things here and there, and its much better. Still more tweaking to do. Need to go bigger idle, maybe 60F9? Need to go bigger choke now as at WOT, my AFR is 10. Bigger chokes are going to mess with that IDLE too... Current setup on this test: 32 choke 165 mains 165 airs 55F9 idles F16 Tubes 00 Pump Bleeds 45 Pump Jets Found out my 5th gear on this car is toast wont go in at all when moving... so all high speed readings done in 4th gear. Will not go above 5200 rpms, just runs out of power, but probably due to the AFR being screwed up at WOT. hot engine idle / 800rpm / AFR is 10.9 (corrected to 12.5) 40mph / 2000 rpm /15 AFR 55mph / 2500 rpm / 15.5 AFR 75mph / 3400rpm / 15 AFR 85mph / 13.2 AFR (Guess I j ust need to always drive fast!) Its first "official" drive http://youtu.be/5S86FEphNs8

PIerce Manifolds is the best place I found online to do business with these carbs. I highly recommend them as well. From the free parts I got, it didnt make sense to me, so I haven't implemented it, just the choke only. Maybe Ill try it out for the hell of it, but I cant see how going down 1 main jets size and going up two sizes in air correctors are going to help any. Im way lean as it is.... Car has by far been the most driven today than ever before. Since changing the chokes, there is a very weird problem at exactly 4000 rpms no matter what, the carbs cough/spit/pop ... I cant get over 4000 rpms even when mashing on the gas. Its extremely odd. (***EDIT*** Stupid Rev limit is way off LOL) Im pretty sure its because of the carb being setup wrong, but part of me wondered if it had something to do with timing? Im at 36 degrees at 3000 rpms on how I have it setup. Its leaning way out from what I can tell on the AFR.. I should have my new parts monday from pierce with the three day ship. Couldnt justify the 90$ overnight fee like some can Also had a wicked accident tonight in the garage. I had put a towel over the fender while I was doing some wiring work, and I started the car up. The first carb spit fire out and I got it started shortly after that. It took me about 2 minutes later to notice that the towel was on fire with 1 foot flames coming off it... Im just glad the wife didnt see, I wouldn't have heard the end of it...

wooo it works : ) Now I just need to figure out why my headlights dont work, turn signals and fuel gauge... Atleast one thing can be checked off the list.

ah, that helps me a lot, ive been looking at the wrong wiring harness all along. No wonder I cant find it! I know right where to go look now, thank you very much, I owe you a beer cgsheen =)

Can anyone tell me which side of the car the water temperature gauge wire to sensor is on? Does it come out on the passenger side of the car or the driver side? Also, the Color wiring diagram for my model says its a yellow wire with black stripe. Dont got any of those. I have some cream looking wires that may have been yellow at one point.... I hooked one up and apparently it had voltage on it, blew the sending unit right out of the water housing lol... so that one isnt it, capped off and put aside. Read over on classic Z that its a black on black wire. Got a few of those. Can anyone confirm what color wire im looking for? A neighbor told me, you can check the gauge wire by grounding it out, it should then make the temperature gauge max out. Is this true, or just on specific chevy models he is used to working on? I assume if thats the case, there must be a very low voltage on the wire to make that work? Thats easy to check with an ohm meter if thats the case. Thanks!

Thats what I did, DCOE 152's and Electromotive XDI kit. Didnt want to deal with the distributor mods so I went this way and its a lot much nicer setup IMO.

Hmm I swore I read something somewhere in my early research when I started my project last year, (and y'all know the internet speaks the truth on everything) that anything over 200hp on a NA and stock computer, it just doesnt know how to handle that. Something about the power curve not knowing what to do above a certain level... ?

Hey Duragg, yeah, thats why I went with Electromotive. Just bolt on, and very minimal wiring. In 5-10 years, I plan on going full EFI/ITB. Alot of parts will move right over based on what I have already invested in.I have read from quite a few people, that triples love a non dizzy setup. I mainly went with it because its more modern, and its more finely tunable. up to a 1/3 degree of accuracy. And I also didnt want to go figure out how to modify the distributor. The Kaminari dizzy I thought was rediculously priced considering its only a few hundred bucks more to go Electromotive. I wont know where im at tho until I get it on the dyno out in Scottsdale.

Well I knew what the emulsion tubes did, but not to that kind of level so thanks for the lesson Keiths stuff is expensive, and I dont get how certain things match up to the weber counterpart.... I like the idea of some of the things he has put together, but at $20+ a jet that adds up real quick.

heh... it might just be yours years of experience working with these carbs to know whats going on. It all makes sense to me now, and I hope to have mine fixed here soon as those new jets come in. As far as the emulsion tube goes, isnt F11 smaller than F16? I get what your saying, but just doesnt make sense to me... to each their own I guess. I didnt order any F11's, staying with the F16's.

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Not looking for a 2+2, I think thats what I ended up getting and it doesnt fit. I need a non 2+2 trim piece in good shape both left and right.

The existing tail light trim housings on the car are so far gone that I barely apply any pressure and they crack and crumble right before my eyes. Bought another set, but they dont fit. Its too wide in the corners for some reason.. The black spray painted ones were the originals in the picture. The grey ones are the newer ones I got off another 280 (unknown year), but they must be different between the years?? (EDIT: I think the grey ones are off a 2+2 after doing google image searches) My 280 is an early 1976 type, non 2+2. Need both left and right trim pieces. You can see in the picture how its more fat in the corners on the grey one compared to the original. I am looking for a set that will drop right in. Just need the enclosure only no lights or chrome accents. Worst case Ill have to trim them but probably wont turn out as nice for a fit. Thanks!

Duragg, its bugging me a lot, and I need to know why now... Why the F11's emulsion tubes? Everything I have been researching on says that based off our per cylinder cc on our engine size, you should be running atleast an F16 like me... we are right in the middle between an F16 and F2. Did Dave at Robello give you any other info on why F11? Some kind of secret sauce Dave has found ? See what happens when I become some what educated, I start demanding answers! =) This is in the weber book, granted its just a suggestion as well. Cylinder Capacity suggested emulsion tube 250-325 F11 275-400 F15 350-475 F9,F16 450-575 F2 Emulsion tube tables: http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc281/B20Paul/WeberEmulsionTubes1.jpg http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc281/B20Paul/WeberEmulsionTubes2.jpg

Chokes were free, he just gave em to me as they were too small for him. I see a 2 stage approach right now. Im going to increase jet sizes on these 32's since Im leaning out now on top end, and once I get that fixed, Ill move up to a 34. Ill use the AFR and of course the butt dyno I think a gradual approach will help me better try and find my way than just changing everything. Knowing what works before hand and how the car performs I think is key before moving forward. Its a more expensive approach but I understand it better. Its really helped me understand things now that I have gotten the car to work and playing with different jet sizes, and ultimately the chokes. After contemplating it, I want to settle on a 34 choke size, as I feel that will be more the right setup with this car for now. I could probably get the 36 to work, but my idle jet it too small to handle the transition I know for sure and then jet sizes need to be increased too. I need to get my tail lights all hooked up so I can get it on the freeway and play more. To Lazeums question, I dont think its getting rich. The AFR gauge doesnt go off the chart anymore even when im doing some heavy pedal it goes lean. Really upset that TopEndPerformance.com didnt set these carbs up like I asked and they just sold me a factory kit. I specifically asked them to do that... and im pretty sure i burned that bridge too now. oh well, atleast im learning a lot from people who do care. Duragg I can get you the 36's.... They are at home right now. I can give them to a common friend of ours here at work, or I can meet you somewhere for lunch one day this week if you want. What you thinking your 40's are too big now?

So... I made significant progress by just changing out the chokes to 32. I think i didnt need to go that low, but the car will now do a burn out in 1st, and chirp without any problem into 2nd. The AFR is dead on at 12.5, and when I had it up around high rpm (5500 ish) (this is a new build Im not ready to take it all the way yet), AFR was between 17 and 18, the good thing now is the AFR gauge does not lean out at all. So I assume I can get a slightly bigger Main, and be ok. Transition rocks... I did notice a very tiny blip at one point but I was feeling/listening for everything that I forgot to realize what I was doing. I suspect it might have been timing with the aftermarket ignition... But it was very minor, and it seemed like it might have been more high rpm than transition. So with it drivable now, I have something very good to work from and build on. I would like to get back up to 36 chokes, but Im going to need a lot more fuel being added, but this whole process has been a lesson thats going to continue for a while. So my setup as it stands now. I want to increase the main jet and Im more than likely going to move to a F9 size idle jet. I have a small collection of growing parts now... but I was grinning for ear to ear after my around the block trip. These are on DCOE 152's. 32 choke 145 mains 155 airs 55F8 idles F16 Tubes 00 Pump Bleeds 45 Pump Jets

BFG, Where did you get the mirrors?

Why not? It looks great on mine, but its not CF tho. I did cut the hood up so its functional.

LOL you know... I think most people who see this for the first time are going to think you were drunk. Are you sure you weren't overly embellishing the alcohol on this one a bit, and then realized you put it in backwards? Is that a heart on your hood too? Peace and love were definitely on your mind with this one huh....

The tuning guide written by DCOE_TUNER on the Yahoo forum you gave me, also lists to have it at 12.5:1. I also found this on a few other websites. I dunno the explanation, but seems to be common from what I have been finding.