AZGhost623

Two ways I have used before in the past on finding a vacuum leak. Easy way is to just get some carb cleaner, and spray around generously around the rubber boots doing a section at a time. If you notice your engine go up in idle, then you found the area to look around and/or rubber to replace. 2nd way is a bit more fun, and lazy if you ask me, just need a cigar and a few big puffs, blow your smoke into the intake. Any smoke leaking out is where your leak is at.

My valve rockers fell off on intakes 4, 5 and 6, had to have DOC510 come out to my house to fix it. Got extremely lucky none fell through, retainers held them in place, but one retainer came out in three pieces not two. Not sure how exactly that happens, but the entire valve train wasnt correct. Runs pretty dang good now, but still working on my webers getting them tuned right. I knew what I was possibly getting into buying a custom engine setup from out of state... if something happened it was on me to fix. But still, never expected something like this to happen. Have been in contact with Allen throughout the entire ordeal. He did offer to fix it if I took the headoff and shipped it back to him. Price you pay buying out of state...

That's good to know on the gauge that it does move around a bit. I knew what I was getting into when I went to this setup, so I was prepared a bit, but still wasnt prepared enough now that Im knee deep in all this. With summer approaching in AZ I was hoping to get some real good road time, but looks like Ill be back to just resto work and working out the tune over summer. As far as jetting goes, I still have quite a ways to go to get things figured out. My carbs came with a cable linkage setup to use in lieu of the stock mechanical, but I havent figured out how exactly its supposed to install. Ill probably look more into that as well as I heard thats more ideal.

Just to clear my head a bit, this is pretty tricky... the O2 gauge jumps a bit between 12 and 12.5 which isnt too bad I guess. But when the electric radiator fans come on, it drops below 12. So Im going to err on the high side a bit. How much should it vary? .5 ok? Also when I do a quick rev on the engine after a long idle, the "bar" that attaches to the arms for the throttles doesnt always seem to come back to the same position. I have a old clutch spring to make sure it pops up, but its off a bit that makes it just enough that its not back at 12.5. I think I have had enough exhaust fumes for one night....

Yep, 12.5:1 is what I found out these need to be at from a dcoe pro on another website. I have a good feeling Im somewhere close on my all in at 3000 rpm range, because the car runs pretty good at higher rpms, but lower rpm is where Im struggling with on getting the tune right within the idle circuit which is going to require some jet changes and things I believe.. Ill play with the timing more to see what kind of response I get if I bump it up a bit with some quick blips to see if it works any better. I see your running triple 45's as well. Care to share your specs on the jet sizes and chokes on it?

Still waiting on the moderator to approve me on that Yahoo forum. Im eager to get it checked out. I asked the same thing on the airs to have a 200 size, to make sure he wasnt mistaken on the air. He said that is typical rule of thumb to go +60 up from the main to the air size, but he is going based off personal experience over his years and what he thinks may make a good street tune. Once you get into compression, and other mods it really comes down to experience he said. Not that he is very experienced with the Z, but he has raced against them he mentioned, and knew of their setups. It doesnt cost me anything, so why not, its just my labor.=) I would be singing a different tune if I had to pay for it now. I verified the sizes when I pulled them all out last time.

AFR Sensor goes way up when its stumbling. Idle AFR varies a bit between 13.2 and 13.8 Here is a video I took over the weekend with a family member. 42 seconds in, you can see the surging, and 1:30 in there is some other weirdness. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPAeR4dG1tw But it rev's real good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzU3wvpMpaI Interesting on the emulsion tube. Ill have to read some more on that on why they are key? I got some free parts coming from a friend of a friend who has DCOE 152's on his Porsche, so I cant complain. Ill swap it out with this stuff out later this week or this weekend and see what happens. He also agrees the 36 choke is way too big for this car. His opinion is that this setup is for a track car to have constant high rpm's, not street use. He thinks that this will make a good street tune. He has a large swath of parts I found out so Im free to use if needs be to find the right tune and then pay him on what I do decide to keep. 32mm chokes 140 main 165 air

I have an electromotive ignition, so no distributor. Im at 16 degrees at idle. 36 total advanced. its money on the idle. I have tried a few degrees higher, and a few degrees lower, and it really likes being at 16 degrees, its quite noticable with no studering and coughing/choking. The higher end, Im not too sure on, I have just heard 36 degrees at full advance is where its needed so I have set that. I havent messed with the timing on the upper limit at all. I can rev it up at idle and it sounds great. if I should be somewhere else, i can definately try it out. I have the AFM o2 wideband gauge so that has been helping me out a lot letting me know whats going on.

The more information the better I have to combat the situation is the way I look at it. After talking to TEP this morning who originally sold me this setup, he wants to change out the main jets and idle jets to something bigger to account for the more intake in air. Im not too sure this is the right way to go in my opinion, bigger is not always better. He still hasnt gotten back to me yet, and I may go look somewhere else. To me its not pulling enough vacuum on that large of an intake so the choke needs to be changed as well. The hard part is I dont know how to calculate what my displacement is, or how much CFM im moving so trying to figure out the correct idles/mains is a bit challenging. The snail gauge shows me 7 across all carbs now, but Im not sure what exactly that means in a sense of trying to calculate CFM and displacement to get the proper sizing. Last thing I want to do is just randomly throw money at it, it can get expensive fast that way.

Since my car is road worthy now, and some drive testing and reading A LOT, I have convinced myself the venturis/chokes are too big. I have DCOE45's with the following setup on a big bore high compression engine (flat top 89mm pistons, .080 thousandths headshave, F54/P90A) 36 chokes 145 mains 155 airs 55F8 idles F16 Tubes 00 Pump Bleeds 45 Pump Jets Cold start is extremely hard by itself. Place hand over air intake horns to create bigger vacuum, and car starts immediately (or use starter spray with butterflys cracked and same result). Car LOVES high rpm (4000 rpm+) but sucks on the street. It idles great, and rev's great with quick blips just fine which is weird. But mash on the gas and there is a problem at low rpm with a load on the car. I think I should move to 34 or even 32 size Venturis. Can someone else confirm my sanity check on what im seeing?

I would be real curious to see how the OEM mirrors dimensionally stack up against the Reproductions. Im still a bit put off on putting the reproductions on. I need them to be functional, just not for looks. So where can you find OEM Fender Mirrors Tony?

motorsports has got em brand new http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBC1B10

Fuel pressure gauge is a good start, but you also will need a snail gauge for sure. If you can afford it, get a wideband O2 sensor so you can tell the richness of the exhaust it will help immensely for the DIY guy. You can go by smell if you think your nose is good enough Do your research also on the distributor, it requires some modifications as well when going to triples. I am finally got my build done, and Im in the process now of tweaking out the carbs and getting everything dialed in right.

I found something on the internet earlier that said anywhere between 13 and 14. I was able to get them all adjusted so thats what the meter is showing now. I dont know about EFI vs Carb either, but atleast I have a reference now. I also dropped my timing a bit down to 12 seems to like that a bit better.

I have an AEM Wideband O2 sensor hooked up. Its reading 11.5 at idle. What should I be at/around on idle? What should I be at say 3000 rpms or so driving down the road? Triple Weber 45's setup with direct ignition (no distributor). Im at about 16 degrees at idle (from what I have read others have setup), and 36 degrees at 3000rpms. Idle RPM is at 1000. Thanks!

1976, did they vary much on the model? Its also a coupe, non 2+2.

Looking for both left and right black inside door panels for a 280Z. The ones I got with my car were all cut up with speaker holes and were warped so the bottom didnt connect with the door itself.

I sucked up a lot a parts from nissanpartszone and driveline.com because I plan on doing the same thing with this 82 5speed I scored. Parts were not cheap, about another 400$ worth or so to go through and replace everything (which may not be needed), but while its open just do it anyways is my thought. Who knows what this 82 5speed has been through. Oh, and apparently Duragg sucked up all of the 5th gear parts, as its NLA now.

I pulled those off my car a few months back. I still might have them. Your just talking about the right angle rubber that wraps around the corners right? Im heading to the shop tomorrow and can check to see if I still have them lying around.

I have seen these floating around, but they are usually on the Yahoo Japan auction site. Might want to check there.. and... speak of the devil ... brand new in box, very pricey... http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e133297648

So I am about ready to install these on my car, and I think I found all the same instructions as everyone else had with people saying its not a good fit based off those instructions.... Does anyone have good location instructions on where these need to mount to be functional? I reattached what I found in another thread just in case I found something else.

from my experience, yes.

Duragg came over to help me get my carbs tuned. But i wanted to pull the head because of the loud valve clacking on the video above... Heart breaking is all I can say. Got it mostly put back together, but #6 needs expert service to get it fixed and then have a valve job to ensure everything is ok. Some rockers got some bad scruff on it from this. Filled the #6 cylinder with rope to keep the valve from falling in. Car has less than 20 minutes of run time on it (IF THAT!), and maybe 2 minutes of road time while I turned the car around last weekend. Not sure how exactly this could have happened. Unless repeated starting/testing of other various components caused things to get lose. Sent an email over to the guy who built in California and asked WTF. Its passed its warranty period which was only 90 days. Its just taken 7 months to get to this point where I could have it drivable per say.

Terrible... pumped all the gas out after I got home from work. It was a nice brown color. Looks like tea actually. Going to have to drain and clean the carbs out again. I cant imagine premium gas (From Quicktrip) in a tank for 45 days would do this? Does gas usually go bad that quickly?? Im hoping its just the chemicals/treatment the gas tank refurbishers used that may have caused this, and wont be an ongoing problem now the tank has been drained. Since the compression has been raised to 11+, im wondering how much bad gas is going to affect it. Is this going to be a common reoccurence Im going to be dealing with?

Looks similar to mine, but hopefully the picture is just a stock photo, as it shows 5 hole bolt patter, my hubs are 4 hole bolt pattern. Hopefully he can accept returns if it doesnt fit.