AZGhost623

The motorsport seat foam didnt work too well for me and I gave up. Took it to an upholster to get it put together.. Probably the same Ebay guy that ships out of the UK? Mine was leather skins with embroidery and white stitch.

gah.... that really burns me up... so much time/money wasted... I guess I will have to keep an eye out for door panels. Perhaps sell these off to try and recoup some money I suppose... the problem is I dont know what I got... 2+2? or Later 280Z door panels? gonna be hard to sell if I dont know what exactly they are... I guess the big thing is to just mention its 9" in not 5"...

Is there a universal following for IN/OUT on the sandwich adapter that goes on the block? I have a universal one, and its not marked nor were their any instructions. Not sure if it matters or not. This is what I purchased for reference. http://www.amazon.com/Godspeed-Universal-Quality-Stainless-Braided/dp/B009KALA78/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1381025034&sr=8-3&keywords=godspeed+oil+cooler

well that's new to me... I've never been apart of any conversations that I know of about this situation. So I guess what your saying is that the doors won't fit if the shape of the door panel is more angled? I guess I have to go through this whole process again on sourcing panels skins and getting them upholstered...

I have an early 76 280z.... So where does that leave me... screwed? Can I just drill out a hole for the door lock and be ok, or will they not fit at all?

I bought some interior door panels off a guy here earlier this year. I then got a vinyl skin kit from ZCarSource for the 280z door panels, and got them reupholstered professionally just recently. However, the door lock is in the wrong place when I try to go to install them. On the car door, the lock is about 5" in from the edge. On the door panel itself, its like 9" in. What's the deal on this? The skin fit just fine which was for a 280Z, but the door lock holes on the panels are clearly in the wrong place. (There is only one hole on the panels as well.) So what kind of door panels did this guy end up selling me? They are in very as new condition now. I paid about $200 for both door panels, plus the skin kit, and labor to put them on, so i'm in pretty deep to have to end up not using it. Am I screwed, or can I just drill out a new hole in the door panel and all is well? It looks like a fit otherwise... But will everything line up? I dont want to destroy a needless panel if I dont have to and would rather resell it if I had to.

With datsun parts, I had quite a few problems which is documented in other parts here. He doesnt build them, he resells them from R Rated Motorsports. If you have problems, your looking at freight shipping 300$ each way as he is going to want it back to do 'warranty work'. If I were you I would try to find someone local who knows how to work on those engines if you cant yourself. I would start with your local Z car club, and or reaching out to the dealer who may know something in your area.

So MSA only carries one type of foam, even tho their website says 240-280 they said. They are a direct fit for 240's, but the 260-280 needs to have the foam shaved a bit in order for it to fit correctly. Kinda drunk in my opinion but cuts down on the amount of inventory they need to store they said...

I purchased the seat foam from MSA for my 76 280z. It doesnt look like its molded right? Is it supposed to look this off? To me from what I can tell the bolsters on the side are not right which keeps it from sitting in the metal correctly. Does anyone have experience with installing these? It looks like they source them from http://www.distinctiveindustries.com according to the packaging...

CF door panels exist today out of Japan. You can find them on the yahoo auction site. Its about 800$ for both right and left sides, and are abundantly available. Here is an example. Would use Google Chrome to have it translate the website for you. http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p349510380

I kinda thought that too, but the thing I found interesting about the colortune was that it was per cylinder, where the wideband is overall for the entire system. I found another vid of a guy using it on his 260, but it also has SU's.

Has anyone tried the "colortune" product for tuning each cylinder with their webers? Concept sounds good, but not sure how well it works in all practicality. Anyone have experience with this? With our webers it looks like you may only get part of the fuel delivery circuit tho since this is done at idle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEZ0-uN0NA4

Your car seems to get featured alot! I have one of your pictures from crank and piston as my desktop wallpaper as inspiration

http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_Gearset.php Would they have what your looking for? Kinda pricey tho, but its kameari, cant go wrong there...

Ah I found it, it was josh817 back in 2010. I actually have seen this post I think last year when I was working on my cars setup. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/90037-japanese-na-l6-400hp-how-they-do-it-pictures-ive-found-etc-not-56k-safe/

I noticed that too, but wasnt sure if the position of it that far back was because of the GNOSE kit or something else going on.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/06/70s-spirit-the-imsa-240z/ "With its competition-spec rebuild. word has it the fully-built L-motor is now outputting an extremely impressive 400 horsepower." I've seen stroker setups that can get to 350hp, but 400hp? Im guessing thats crank and not at the wheels? Anyone know more about this car/setup and how they get to 400hp on solex carbs? Thats very impressive....

So I disassembled one of the carbs on the intake to get one of the studs out. Turns out its M8x1.25 that threads onto the intake, and M8x1.00 thats on the other side the nylon nut screws onto. I just got a bolt that was M8x1.25 since they didnt have any studs like that at ACE. It worked out great (the ones that came off were on the bottom of the intake). Once I got that all settled down, did a valve adjustment and re-tuned the carbs. Its very happy again

Im with BluDenstiny Hankook Ventus RS3

Anyone know what size these are? I thought they were M8x1.00 but that seems to be slightly too big to screw into on the intake side where the webers attach. I have a couple that appear to have left and found something else better to do and need to do a better job at securing them in place, as well as getting 3 more new ones. Thanks!

So its been about of week of tearing up the roads out here, and decided to go through everything just to make sure everything looked ok. Turns out, Im having some weird sync issues with the SK snail gauge. Carbs 1-4 is right at 5 on the gauge. Cylinders 5 and 6 are at 10. What would cause it to be a 10 on the snail gauge? I dont think a vacuum leak because that would make the reading less rather than more. ? Anyone have some ideas on what I should check? Yes the bleed screws are turned all the way in.

So duragg took my Z for a spin today after the local datsun meet up this morning for breakfast, and he has certified it as been a good setup So ill stop worrying about my setup now and focusing on other things now. DCOE 45 / 152 36 choke 145 main 180 air 70F9 Idle F3 Tube 00 Pump Bleeds 55 Pump Jet

I can get the heat out. I bought a competition hood scoop, and I made it functional, and works quite well. You can put your hand on the side of it the hood scoop and you can feel the heat coming right out. So stagnant heat I dont think is the problem.

Well with the AZ Summer here and my first time going through it with the Z, Im concerned about the cooling effects on the car with the outside temp being 110 out. I have a 3 row aluminum radiator (Champion) and 2x 12" Proform 67012 fans. The Summit kit with these fans, only had a thermostat that turns the fans on at 185 which appears to be right around the beginning of the M on the stock temp gauge. I swapped out my thermostat (aftermarket) which had a very small diameter compared to the OEM NIssan and put a 160 thermostat in. I went all ghetto and built my own fan shroud out of Aluminum tape around the fans which has helped some but not enough to turn the fans off in street driving. On the HWY it comes right down to the middle and stays there. I am guessing its getting up to 190-200 and the fans run constantly on the street. I did NOT have these problems when it was cooler out. The temp gauge was actually below the E. Should I be concerned? My rule of thumb has been anything over the middle of the stock gauge should be looked into. After reading some previous posts, back in 2010 ZYA ran a single 12" fan and says the 160 degree thermostat is too cool for these cars and ran a 192 thermostat to keep more radiator fluid in the radiator so it could cool it longer. Tony ran even smaller fans 2x 10" fans and had no problems with a 160 (not sure if it was being raced in socal or not?) Im wondering if the 185 fan switch is just too high, and by that time its already doomed? Or is it the thermostat thats causing the problem? There is a lot of variables in this to check, so I am hoping someone in AZ or another high heat area has already figured out the right combination. EDIT: On a side note this was a very dumb topic header. I dont know what I was thinking

F16's no good on these cars. I would stay away from them and just keep trying out your F11's