AZGhost623

Race car tax? LOL

Well thats what Im kinda wondering. Hopefully TonyD will say something about the culture across the pond... Check out any of these websites, and some of these Z's are going for over 30k US.. What Im trying to figure out is why these cars sell for so much there, but not here. Very rare to find good quality cars here. And when you do see a gorgeous Z restored and they want 20-30k for the car, its nearly impossible for them to sell... I believe the desire is there for these great Z cars. It continues to make top 25,50,100 best cars of all time lists. So whats the missing magic making a Z a classic car on a broader audience and creating that must have among collectors who pay big bucks for old sports cars, both foreign and domestic? Is there just too many on the market, so its more of a rare thing that drives price? Damnit why doesnt everyone just like these cars? http://exchange.goo-net.com/ http://www.kuruma.co.jp/index.htm http://www.rockyauto.co.jp/ http://red-948.com/

The only thing bad that I have heard about the ZDDP additive is that its a killer on catalytic converters. So if you keep your car stock, its not something you want to run.

I dunno, but it was the first I heard about the whole zinc thing when I got my engine back. So I run it. 60$ for a case of Valvoline VR1 with the ZDDP additive I dont think is very expensive at all. http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV205-Racing-Formula-Approved/dp/B000CQ4DEQ/

Not trying to hate, love my car, never want to let this one go. Learned my lesson after letting go of my first two Z's (Old enough to know better now) But it got me thinking... Looking at these cars, it seems like if some car goes up thats over 10k+ it becomes very difficult to sell here in North America. But if you go and look over on the Japanese markets, you see these S30's selling for 30k+, and thats the norm. Even the super nice ones here in town like this one, and its been listed for weeks/months (another repost). http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/3638869169.html If this was an old Mustang/Chevy/Ford muscle car in the same condition as this Z, it would be 50k+ easy. Also at Barret Jackson here in Scottsdale there was a super sweet Z that sold for 10k this year. http://www.barrett-jackson.com/application/onlinesubmission/lotdetails.aspx?ln=49&aid=466 Is it more of a select few that have a passion for these cars, and they just arent accepted in mainstream society here in the US as a classic? Porsche/Ferrari have been, so I dont see why it would be a foreign car thing... So I am just curious more than anything, what is it that keeps a 30+ yr old car like the S30 from gaining value over other cars from the same era? Whats holding it back?

I thought of exactly what TonyD was saying to put a pressure regulator in after the carbs on the return side so the carbs continue to run unrestricted get the fuel they need. Didnt think to run the fuel line up around the firewall. Ill have to play with it this summer some and see if changing things around has any effect with its drivability in the summer AZ heat.

Bad Day doesnt say anything about ITB's how would I have known or its even a datsun, but you can clearly tell? It sounds good!

I had mine refurbed just a few weeks ago by a company in town for $100. They had it for 2 days. They cracked it open. and then they ribbon welded it back together. Im not sure of that "ribbon weld" process, but its what I was told when I inquired. I was too afraid to crack that thing open myself.

I have heard... and I could be wrong, that they make a similar sound. although I havent found a youtube video of ITB's on an L28 at WOT yet. Most I find are just showing it off, and revving the engine a bit or with terrible sound/volume.

I came across an article on another website while doing some research on something, and it got me wondering. With a deadhead fuel setup on triple carbs, the fuel sits in the fuel lines and adds to the temperature gains from the hot engine. This can add to misfires, and mixture problems. If you change it over to a return setup, apparently the fuel has time to cool off by going back into the tank. It makes sense... Why does everyone say to do deadheads on these things? Is there a specific reason? Almost all race guys I have talked to say this is the way to go with a deadhead setup. But if Im also going to do an occasional drive during the summer nights in Arizona or early morning, Ive been told its nearly undrivable out here with that kind of setup due to the heat out here adding to the temp under the hood.

Based on my budget, I went with DCOE45's. I seriously looked at ITB's, but it was $2000 just for the ITB setup minus injectors and aftermarket computer. I estimated almost another 2000$ for that. big injectors, bigger fuel pump, aftermarket computer, and ignition. I had a lot of things I needed to do still in my setup, and justifing andother 4000$ to do ITB was hard to do so it just wasnt going to happen for me. So I went the old school way and just did the triple 45's which ran me 1100$ jetted the way I wanted them, and 300$ for the manifold. I then went with an aftermarket coil on a wire ignition system for another 500$. All this was brand new, you may find good savings in the used area... I would say take a look at your budget and what all going ITB entails, and then make a decision. If money was no object, I would have gone the way of ITB.

http://www.carid.com/2003-infiniti-g35-body-kits/extreme-dimensions-body-kit-299800.html the hood doesnt look too flush...

LOL definately get some new rear suspension components on that thing.

Dang... even tho I have full coverage from Hagerty on my car as a "classic", I would still hate to have this happen. I wonder if Hagerty would still pay out, if the other insurance totals the car and values it less than you do (to cover the aggreed upon cost of car) I also wonder if I would have problems because I took my rear bumper off. Im sure that Tacoma would probably have driven right over me...

Interesting... I did not know that!! Ill keep that in consideration when I time it this weekend. Thanks!!

So would a 280ZX Borg/Warner T5 be better/stronger option than the standard 5speed found in most of the Z's? I would really be curious to hear others chime in as to how they are getting around these problems with that high RPM shifting. I always hear about the rear ends people are concerned about breaking, but little to nothing on the trans... It seems a common problem because we ran into Tage (?) with his 240 Rebello 3.1 and was having shifting problems too at high rpm. So from what I have gathered going back and reading all this, its Genuine Nissan syncro's, shift fork and then the heavier spring option with the syncro's right? I have a sneaky suspiscion Im going to run into these problems too once my car gets on the road. After break in of course I have no idea what the gear shop used when they did the rebuild on my trans replacing the syncros and other things, guess i will know soon enough on how well they rebuilt it.

Actually, that's something I did find in my early searching as to where to set the timing. I decided to err on the lower side just incase of going to high and causing detonation. I read that carbs need a lot more advance than the EFI timing, so I started out with 13ish, and Ill go up to 15, adding 20 degrees onto that at 3000 rpms gives you the 35 degress that Braap talks about in the article you mention. Since these setups are way more powerful than the dizy, I was hoping to get more of some advice as to how/where a good setting would be on the XDI and to go from there. It definately does NOT smell gassy at all with 92 pump gas. Actually it kind of smells like tuna.. Is that lean? LOL. I assume an O2 sensor will help with the tune as well, I plan to get that hooked up next. Along with figuring out the TAC. Ultimately Ill get it over to a dyno shop, but I would like to get it close as possible.

I know that question is fairly loaded, and im sure to get "depends" Its a stock cam in a P90/F54 setup, 10:1 compression, and 89mm pistons. Carbs are weber 45's. Where do you guys set your timing at? Based on things I have read, this is what I have started with. About 13ish on the initial (I have read some put it up to 15), and 20 on the 3000. Also, I read in the manual you can read the timing off this unit, but havent figured it out yet. I hooked up the ohm meter onto those holes, and I dont get anything, just all zeros. What setting should the ohm meter be on? And you read it off the copper holes right? Im sure the crazy miss was due to it not being tuned right too on the rev... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUB7nHij6xE

tac is still dead. We got the engine finally started, but will need to figure out why the tac isnt working. Im positive its hooked up right to the XDI with the tac adapter, but unsure if I have the right lead now off the existing wiring harness. I did find the lead you mentioned, and thats what I used. On a side note, how do you check the timing on the XDI? There are two brass holes I assume is where you check it at. What voltage do you put the ohm meter at? It shows 0 no mater what I do.

engine start with ethanol - fail (linkage problem) which took about 30-45 minutes correcting. Thanks Duragg for the over the phone assistance!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m77227QbtG4 first start with no ethanol help (watch out for the happy F bomb drop) muffler added (idle only): Lots still left to do, but serious major milestone today! TAC doesnt work must have something wired wrong with the tac adapter, Coolant temp doesnt work, or fuel gauge yet. Think we did something wrong with the tank, it will need to come back out. Need to get a good "tune" on it as you will see everything is just done with a very rough tune. Also need to get the AEM o2 sensor in, and then body work. My build page over the last 6 months: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/4011187/1976-datsun-280z/

Sure thats nice but it wouldnt be the same... every car is special in its own right, and its hard to put value on that. I live in a great neighborhood and its garaged like Haggerty likes, but there is always some nut out there who cant be happy with you having nice things...

really like the cigarette lighter trick. I may have to re-think my toggle switch idea. Currently I built a custom power distribution panel off the ignition, and I have a toggle switch off it that basically turns that fuse block on and off. But maybe a push button clicker hidden behind the cigartte lighter is a good idea.. pretty inconspicuous... I wouldnt have thought of that

Chester and Herods didnt have all the pieces, especially if your looking for the vinyl pieces in the rear shock tower, but he said he would make a deal if I sent the old ones to him so he could get the pattern. I tried to contact datsunspirit a few times, but I am not sure they are in business anymore, no response to voicemails or emails. Im going to go without carpet for a bit... since a few things have come up with this thing called life and all....

you guys should look at those speed bleeders, those things rock! Its basically a one way valve. They are definately a luxury item tho.. link

There's a few 5 speeds on ebay right now...