aarang

What I did to keep the PCV was to drill and tap the heat shield boss that is basically in front of the stock PCV hole. Just go down to the hardware store and get a 1/4 NPT tap. The tap will have what size drill to use. Works good, although I do have a catch can between the PCV valve and the block outlet. Aaron

No, the -8 hose is .5", while the bung on the oil pan is .75" or -12.

Yeah, thats what I did. i bought a whole case of the older Chevron DELO. You can still find it around. I think the Rotella is still good, but it's only a matter of time.....

I had a post a while back about ZDDP and found that the STP four cylinder oil treatment in the red bottle had enough Zinc to keep our cams happy. I have been using it for two years on my Delta regrind with Chevron DELO ( the older stuff, not the newer low emissions kind) and haven't had any problems. The STP is easy to find in pretty much any store. Just make sure not to get the regular STP in the blue bottle as it has less ZDDP. This is the only reason I would use STP, as I have always shyed away from oil additives. Aaron

You will find that the majority of the Nissan turbine housings will be cracked in a similar way. I have four of them and they are all cracked. I have been told that if they do not leak, to just use them. You may be able to find one off of a Z31, that is what I did, as they seem to not crack as severely as the 280ZXT ones. Hope that helps. Aaron

My old 280ZX N/A did the same thing. I could be on the freeway, put it in third gear and floor it. It would never go over 4000rpms. It was the TPS. Changed it, and it was fine after that

Looks like the dog was lending a "hand" as well Looks great!

Yes, you do need to use the exsisting wiring from the n/a harness. You have the yellow with white wire from the turbo harness going to the igniter. You then need to use the black with the white wire from the original n/a coil to go to the other terminal on the igniter, with the extra lead going through the resistor to the ground terminal on the side of the distributor. The black/white wire from the igniter goes to the positive side of the coil. the blue from the igniter goes to the negative side of the coil. The blue wire from the n/a harness goes to the negative side of the coil as well, that is the tach signal. Hope that helps.

When I have done the copper coat, I will spray 2 or 3 light coats waiting an hour between each. I have found that if you don't wait long enough before installing the gasket, the stuff makes a mess and doesn't work that well. I had the best success waiting 24 hours after the last coat before installation at about 60 deg outside temps. The stuff is dry enough not to "ooze" at that point and is considerably tackier. Ambient temps and humidity play a part in how fast it dries. After the last coat, just keep testing it with your finger to see if it is still wet or tacky. Be carefull when it is tacky, as it will stick to anything and pull the coating off the gasket. Hope that is helpfull. Aaron

If your 83 turbo has the P90a head, which it should unless it has been changed, then there is no valve lash adjustment required as it has hydraulic pivots.

I had some chattering when I first installed my 87 clutch type LS diff and used the friction additive to regular fluid. I changed to the Redline 75w-90 fluid with the friction modifier in it already. Chattering went away. Just make sure you don't get the 75w-90NS as it does not have the modifier in it like regular fluid. Aaron

I had that same size tire ( 225/60 14) on my stock ZX 14 X 6 wheels and had no problems. The car was stock ride height at the time, but I don't see much difference between the 14's and the 16's I have now in tire height. Aaron

Yeah, I got the Ross pistons through Summit back in 2003/2004 for $463.00 with rings and pins. They do have Datsun specs on file for flat top and dished. I would go with some of they're spec files instead of full custom as it will lower the price. I'm sure the price has gone up some in four years, though.

I don't really know if the ported head made a difference, as its only been on this motor. I had a mondo turbo build going for a while, but another kid came along unexpectedly and I had to sell off alot of my stuff. These are the parts I had " left over" !! The cam made a big difference IMO. It's rather small, though. 260dur int/exh, 460 lift, 114deg LSA. My base FP is 40 PSI and base timing at idle is 17 BTDC. I'm tired of the stock ZXT EFI, though. I can never get it to run exactly the way I want. I do get some detonation on long pulls like on the freeway, but around town it is fine. Next is an I/C. Just got one off of flea bay for $100. Hopefully I'll make it down to the Z meet in Canby this year! Aaron

I'm only running the stock seven PSI with the stock turbo. It is a F54 flat top with a ported P90 head and a Delta turbo cam, stock turbo EFI. Runs great.

If you want a cleaner install with the PCV system, you can do what I and a few others have done. With the non-webbed N42 intake it's easy.... Go to the hardware store and get a 1/4" NPT 90deg brass elbow. It will have male threads on one side and female on the other. Screw it into the stock PCV hole on the intake and aim it ( hole )towards the valve cover breather port. This will just clear the stock turbo. Screw the PCV valve into it. Get about a foot more or less length of 5/8" hose and run it from the valve cover to the PCV valve. Make sure to use hose clamps. The upper part is done. For the block port, I used a catch can between the port and the inlet before the turbo. Same type 5/8" hose. I do have a custom pipe between the turbo and the AFM as I also have a recirc BOV, so it was easier for me than with the stock rubber inlet hose. You can get away without the catch can, and just go directly from the block breather to the hose between the AFM and the turbo, but it does get residual oil in it after a while. Even though it's hooked up backwards in a way, it has worked great for me like this. I don't have any oil leaking or smoking problems, and this is on an 8.8 comp ratio non I/C'd turbo engine. Hope that helps. I would post some pics, but my computer is really slow and I am still in the stone age with dial up!! Aaron

I got my current front and rear T5 seals from Vic Brit, they were the same ones that were from Napa. I think the rear with the shield was $11 and the front about $5. I bought 3 front and 3 rear seals for the T5 from Nissan about five years ago. It's weird, though, as all three of the rear seals don't have the large dust shield even though they are the correct part number. They do fit properly in the tailshaft housing and the driveshaft fits as well. I decided to use the Vic Brit seals instead of Nissan on my current T5 to see how they hold up. After almost six months, I still have no leaks! Aaron

I was pulling my car out of the garage over Christmas for a spin around the block. About a minute after it was running I heard a squealing noise from the front of the engine. I pinpointed the noise to be coming from the distibutor. I pulled the distributor out and it seems that the top bearing/bushing is either worn or just really dry. There is really no slop in the shaft so I'm hoping to just clean and lube it. My question is, has anyone completely disassembled a 82/83 turbo Dizzy? I removed the rotor post,chopper wheel and the small plate below the chopper wheel that has the tension spring under it, and the tension spring. I also removed the collar on the bottom drive side as well. The shaft will not come out like the N/A dist. I really don't feel like damaging this thing as the car runs good with this dizzy. Any help or insight is appreciated! Thanks Aaron

I actually removed and tested the relay, no power going through it when activated, so it is no good. Harness is fine. I have three other EFI relays from various 280ZX's, but not one of them is the same. I was just hoping someone had an extra. Nissan has them, but at $80, I'd rather find used. If someone knows the amp rating of this relay LMK, I'll just wire in a new Bosch relay instead and save myself the money! Thanks for the replys. Aaron

Help!!, My EFI relay went dead so of course my car is dead, too. Does anyone have an extra? It is the green plastic one for the 83 ZXT EFI. Hopefully I posted this in the right spot. Thanks in advance. Aaron

Runemage,Sent you a PM

Thanks, that helps. I don't have a digital water temp gauge, so the values should be good. I'll try warming the car up all the way and use an analog thermometer to measure the oil temp. I'll add resistors to the sender until the gauge reads somewhat correct. Aaron

I was wondering if anyone knows what the water temp sender and oil temp sender resistance values are in relation to temperature changes. I've searched and looked through pretty much every FSM but cannot find a chart like the one for the CHT. My oil temp sender has gone bad, so I tried a water temp sender in its place in the oil pan. After idling the car for five minutes the oil temp reads 280deg! I was hoping instead of buying a new oil temp sender to just slip a resistor in the circuit to correct the value of the water temp sender to make the gauge read correctly, if there is such a thing as a stock gauge reading correctly!! Maybe someone has an oil temp sender they are not using? Thanks in advance Aaron

If you are using a ZX dizzy, you can't put it to manifold vacuum. It needs a ported vacuum source. Plug the vacuum line into one of the ports on the bottom of the T/B and see if that helps.

Wow, .200 for a stock cam. I have a delta regrind for a turbo which is 260 dur 460 lift and I'm using .180 pads. My head has also had the seats cut a little. Aren't the stockers .120? Also, is it advisable to use that thick of a pad with the stock retainers?