aarang

Redline MT90 works well, also. It is a little thicker version of MTL.

Did you remember to cap the oil gallery at the front of the block?

My exhaust manifold is coated inside and out, and the heat shield has a coat of high temp black on it..... no cracks after two years. I was thinking of wrapping the mani as well, but I have seen the aftermath after the wrap is removed... talk about rusty!

I cut my heat shield in half lengthways so it still shields the injectors somewhat from the radiant heat. It is also in two pieces (cut in half again) so it can be removed without removing the intake or turbo. Aaron

If you are not going to use the heat shield, just drill and tap the heat shield mount boss that is in front of the PCV boss. 1/4 NPT is the tap you want. This is what I did with mine. Aaron

Recently I had a Spec clutch failure after 1600 miles of use. A few hard drag launches at the track and it was done. Seems my chatter was not the disc grabbing, but the PP was warped and the disc ate a divot into the friction surface of the flywheel so I do need to have it resurfaced. I do have a Fidanza/Spec aluminum flywheel that I may use, but I had enough problems drag launching with the stocker!! Previously there was a step on the flywheel after getting it resurfaced the first time. I think it was along the lines of a .003 difference between the outer ring and the friction surface ( stock 280ZXT flywheel). I just bought a new ACT clutch and am going to have the flywheel resurfaced again. My T5 has always had a problem with going into 3rd gear when going down the track. I just thought it was the T5, but now maybe it might have been the clutch or the flywheel causing the 'crunchy' 3rd gear. After doing a search on here, it seems there is no general consensus of wether there should be a step machined on the flywheel or if the whole thing should be a flat surface. I looked in my FSM and I can't find any info pertaining to the flywheel specs. Should there be a step, or no step? Is there really a difference? Thanks in advance, Aaron

I think this thread proofs the point, there is alot of love for the S130! I got my first 240Z back in '89 and owned numerous S30s through the 90's. I had to sell all my S30 stuff and cars to buy my house back around Y2K ( haven't heard that term in a while!). I got back into Z's with the S130 because they were alot cheaper than the early cars and I kind of like the 'underdog' feeling. With a few mods, I am way more satisfied with my ZX than any 240 I ever owned.

The Z(X) is a great car to learn on. Once you start digging in, they have a way of getting under your skin and opening your wallet.

Maybe the plastic cup didn't get back onto the end of the shifter? I have done that before and had the same result.

FelPro 8799PT. I have a new one and it does appear to be a MLS type gasket. It cost me $30 at Napa.

I tried to get some euro bumpers about 3-4 years ago. The shipping costs far outweigh the cost of the bumpers.

I was only trying to give you some info, not being snide in any way. Please don't lambast me for chiming in. It seems from your first post that you already know what you want to do, and are demanding people answer you as long as it agrees with what you want. Being defensive from the getgo on this forum will get you nowhere. Sorry

I won't try to tell you what to do or what not to do, but Nissan already made an L24 'stroker', it was the L26 in the 260Z. L24 bore with L28 stroke. Just some info.

You cannot run the DSM BOV open to the atmosphere with the oem EFI. It will idle like crap and have dead spots. That BOV is open and bypassing quite a bit when the engine is running. If you recirculate it before the turbo, it will be OK. I basically had the same setup before my intercooler install and had to run it recirculated. Aaron

My '83 turbo ECU did the same thing.....leaned out after 4500 rpm. I don't think it is a fuel supply issue as much as an ECU control issue. I am now using an '82 ZXT auto ECU, as it doesn't seam to have the same problem. Funny thing, I have tried numerous ECU's from different years...the car runs differently with each one! Aaron

I have heard a similar noise before about ten years ago. On a fresh rebuild of one of my L28's, the first cam tower was not getting any oil. I tore the top end apart and found a small metal shaving in the oiling hole of the tower. after cleaning all of the oil passages again, the noise was gone. Luckily the tower and cam were OK. That motor is still driving around today, although not with me. Maybe check for proper oiling on the top end.

I don't think the controls are the same for turbo/non turbo (non auto climate control) as I have dismantled both types of cars. Similar, yes, but not the same. The turbo also has an external vacuum pump to actuate the controls when under boost. Anyway, I have already installed an inline check valve to make myself feel better! Aaron

Hey guys, my car is a 1980 ZX with the non auto climate control A/C and heater which is still vacuum operated. It has a turbo motor at 10 psi of boost. I am wondering if I am damaging the vacuum pots which control the heater under boost, because they were not designed for turbo applications. Has anyone run into this before? I have been running the turbo for two years with no dire effects as of yet.... all still works OK. I was thinking of putting a check valve in line so the heater only sees vacuum. Anyone done this before? Thanks in advance... Aaron

I think shock loading is what kills transmissions.

You may want to check the PCV side. Try running a filter on the block breather instead of up to the intake/PCV valve. The wire mesh inside of the block behind the block breather tube may be clogged as well. When at idle, is there suction through the valve cover breather?

There is a spacer on the end of the crank that looks like the crank itself. If you cannot get the new pilot bushing in, it is still on there. I am guilty of leaving one of those spacers on the crank, installing the flywheel, tranny, etc., only to drive the car for 2 mins and realize the clutch is not working correctly! Lesson learned the hard way!!

Your dual port throttle body and intake manifold might be a restriction as well. I would try to source a different intake and T/B.

Make sure you use the turbo clutch fork and throw out bearing/collar as well. You will need these to mate with the turbo clutch and flywheel. I would use the ZXT starter, as it is a gear reduction type, and is smaller. Aaron

Just wondering, is your car an automatic? It looks like from the pics that it has an R180 diff instead of an R200. The crossmember is an earlier 79-81 as it does not have the gussets on the ctl arm bosses. The ctl arms look to be the earlier style as well as there is the one piece hard brake line as apposed to 2 flex lines per ctl arm as on the 82-83. It looks to me that someone has swaped the entire rear suspension from an earlier ZX into this one. Not really a big deal, though. Aaron

Just finished my intercooler install last month.