socorob

Can you post a photo of how the front mounts are bolted to the car?

Would it work on a 280 with stock seat belts in place?

You're only supposed to put light coats of ospho on. I put it in a spray bottle and mist the surface then wipe it around with a rag. If you put it too thick you get that black goop and I heard you should grind that off before painting. I do a couple very light coats. I think it steals an oxygen atom from the rust so it's no longer rust.

Which painless harness are you using and does it fit where the stock fuse box was?

I had a pair of brown leather piloti's and the medium width seem to be more like a narrow. I guess they run a little narrow?

Ha no. Locking mechanisms inside turnstiles.

No. When I replace them after they break I just snug them with an Allen wrench. These are totally loaded in shear only with people pushing against them.

I would go with the factory bolts. These bolts scare me. I had a call out this morning and this is what I found.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=5544871 Those bulkhead connectors are sort of big but are made so you don't have holes in the firewall heat can come thru around wires. You may have to use more than 1 but they make a very clean install. Look at the 10th picture from the top and you can see how it works. I believe the connector locks together with a screw so it stays tight. It would be a lot of crimps to make though as the big one is 22 pins.

You could use a weatherpack bulkhead connector in the firewall if you wanted the ecu inside the car and a quick way to unplug it under the hood.

This is the brand we use at work. Maybe you can search by that.

I know there are fastenal stores in south Alabama. They probably have them in your area too. We get ours from there or mc master Carr.

Make sure you get at least grade 8/10.9. There has been debate over too hard being more susceptible to cracking. We have turnstiles at work that use grade 12.9 of these bolts that that shoulder is around 5/8" or so and the threaded parts is slightly smaller, maybe like 1/2" I have to easy out about 2-4 a year because they snap off at the transition.

I was just looking into this since I just ordered a GTO LS1 and T56. This site has tons of info. http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/2010/100201_LS7T56/800-1000hp_rated_LS_Fbody_T56.pdf

Lizard skin is basically a paint so it SHOULDN'T have any voids for water and air to get into.

Thanks for the reply. I'm so ready to get passed the welding and get on the fun stuff. I've been gathering up the JY stuff I need over the past few months. I'm ready to get it off the floor of my garage and onto the car !

Thanks. The place is willing to swap over parts at no charge if they have them so I want to try to get as much as I can up front so I don't have to re buy it. Does the crank pulley on the gto stick out further?

Decided to order an LS1. It's from an 04 GTO. It has a cable driven throttle body. The seller said he could swap the cfb oil pan setup, shifter, and alternator onto it. He said he didn't have any 4th gen alternator brackets though. Is there any other 4th gen parts I need to have substituted for the GTO parts in order to use the JCI JTR swap parts? Thanks in advance.

Where can you get the shoukia?

Restoration specialties has tons of stuff, but they are old school. You may have to call them and actually talk to a person if you can't find it on their online pdf catalog. My previous classic car didn't have very much support in terms of replacement parts, but I found several things there that were almost exact or would at least do the job. Just get the measurement of the hole and the thickness of the metal. Seals-it has some good stuff too.

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/

I had the fatmat in my Sunbeam, and I didn't care for it. It's heavy and hard to install on surfaces that have lots of curves and crevices. As soon as I finish all the welding on my Z I will be trying out lizard skin on it. I've heard lots of good things about it, and know someone who has the spray gun for it already. It comes in both sound and heat so I will use both.

Ha I was not wearing gloves so my fingertips still hurt from it today. So not at the moment but maybe I will after I get a few more things knocked out on my Z.

Let us know what you end up using for a driveshaft. Did you use an off the shelf safety loop or make your own and can you get a picture of how you have it mounted while you're under the car next time? On a side note, there's some kind of virus or something that's been killing honey bees in large numbers all over the world. It was on the news a few months back.

I finally got a chance to go to the local upullit yard. There were 4 Hyundais there that were early 2000 models with this mirror in them so I grabbed all 4. The yard only charged me $10 for the 4 mirrors. Got home and took the on e with the worst looking housing and carefully cut it with a hacksaw near one end to break the plastic off. It took awhile because I was going very slowly but if you nick the glass or scratch the silver on the back of the mirror you would ruin it. Snapped the end of the plastic off and slid the glass out. Took the best looking housing and smashed the mirror into little pieces I could pull out. Put the Z arm into the Hyundai housing. It was VERY hard to get the glass in . Since the mirror is wider in the middle I slid it in starting at the middle going to the left. You should really use gloves and safety glasses. I was pushing and squeezing so hard I was expecting it to break at any second but that glass is tough. You'll see if you try to break the glass out of the one how hard it actually is. What ended up working for me was running very hot water onto the back of the housing. It seemed to have softened the plastic slightly. Try not to get water into the housing as there are metal parts in there. You dont want to create another spot that the Datsun wouldl like to turn to rust. Sliding it as hard as I possibly could to one side. Sort of squeeze the glass in enough so it starts to bow the plastic out and go between it. I then took a towel and folded it in half and put it on a piece of wood. I laid the mirror in it upside down and pushed very hard all around it. That got it started going in. Then I just had to snap it into the groove in a few spots after that.