socorob

Brought the rotor and caliper to O'reillys. The guy let me test fit with their ceramic pads and it worked fine. I guess these hawks will be going back.

I finally pieced together the front brakes for my car. They consist of: 1986 Z31 pentagon 5 lug hubs 1986 Z31 slotted rotor Rotor spacer Toyota S12W calipers Hawk HPS Toyota brake pads When I tried to slide everything together for a test fit, it seems to be too tight. The rotor slides in but it drags on the pads. Are Hawk pads a little thicker than usual? On the back side of the pads are a thin metal piece, sort of an anti squeal shim or something like that. It appears to be glued on. Are those ok to remove? If I take those off it would give me at least a mm more of clearance and it may be enough room to spin freely. Is anyone else using this setup, and what components are y'all using?

I taped some of the cheap blue plastic conduit from Home Depot to my shop vac. You can also get a long brush for dryer vents for small hard to reach places. The plastic conduit will whistle pretty loudly though.

What backspaces, and how close do they come to the suspension?

What size are they?

I posted that O pipe on another forum a few years ago and people were seriously talking about if that would be better than a H or X pipe.

In a pinch I bought some cheap AZ rotors about 2 years ago. I had to get them turned just slightly to work with my calipers and pads. I went straight from AZ to a place that turns brakes. I went to the back to watch the guy turn them and brand new rotors looked just like that, they were scalloped. The guy says he sees that a lot from the cheap Chinese rotors everyone sells. The lathe would cut for about an inch then not touch the rotor for about an inch alternating like that all the way around.

CCW?

What about the ones for the hatch?

Looking at the bottom those welds look really cold. If there's an area near you that has a lot of chemical plants look for a welder around there. The plants here have tons of welders that work in them, and the retired ones still live nearby. Usually it's not too hard to find someone who does it on the side. Those guys are excellent welders too, as the stuff they weld will go boom if they do it wrong. A lot of them are used to having their welds x-rayed, and if they have a certain amount of failed ones they're outta there, so they know what they're doing.

Go to their website. They have a chart on it for dip switch settings. You need to know your rear end ratio and half tire height. http://www.atrol.com/cx30/ I was going to do the cable x box but between that and the tach calibration from johns cars, it's about $50 cheaper to get speedhut speedo and tach thru the group buy here.

And the DOhC would be better for sustained high RPMs probably. I don't know how hard it is for you to get to England, but I remember seeing a few times on the pistonheads forum where they get a group of guys to go in on a container. They had some place on the east coast that would hold it for something like a month and would collect everyone's stuff that was shipped there And load it and ship it over. With 30 or so people dividing it up it was cheaper shipping for big items.

Use dry Ice on the inside. Took me maybe 2 hours to get the tar out. Now under the car is a different story.

Also Denver bumper works. I think they told me it was $300 ish to straighten, fill and bolt holes I didn't want, rechrome , and ship back to me a 240 front bumper. The back bumper was more because it's 3 pieces. That's what this guy used and it looks nice in the photos. http://forums.nicoclub.com/betzy-240z-updates-for-2013-t570373.html http://www.denverbumper.com/

How did these hold up? Have they torn any over time? Also for those using the isolation mounts from McMaster Carr, what did you put in the 5/8" gap between the radiator and core support to keep the air from going around it?

Do you happen to use synthetic fluid? Eaton told me to use regular oil in their trutrac because synthetic doesn't have as much crush strength as good ole dinosaur stuff or else it would make a lot of noise and wear quicker. EDIT nevermind you have a clutch LSD not a gear type. I misread.

I had to put a pedal stop on my other car because I was worried about over traveling it.

Oh yeah! Torq Thrust D's are definitely one of my favorites. They only go up to 16's though. Vintage Wheel works 45's go at least to 17, and you can get them in something like a 2.5" range of backspacing. I want to go with 17's in case one day I decide to go with crazy big brakes. Does anyone happen to know what size wheels the 1st 350z had that came with the Brembo track rotors?

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=140&t=1139816&mid=0&i=100&nmt=1969+Maserati+Ghibli+-+The+Resurection&mid=0 My friend did something similar out of metal. He basically copied this guys rollover frame to do his Z. 2 of us can flip it. He has casters on the bottom so he can roll it around.

At least you have the matching steering wheel and dash cracked look option. That was a rare combination for that year.

I think the gm one is 3/4" . if the Datsun one is the same I may leave it to save some work and $$, if it looks like its in shape to last a while. I think the Wilwood is 13/16.

The dash has a cover, and I'm scared to remove it to see what lurks underneath. If I have to pull the dash for anything, I will probably try to fix it because, quoting Jalopnik, "the Z dash covers look about as natural as Donald Trumps toupee."

These are the style of wheels I'm planning on using since I will be converting to 5 lug. I cut the rust out the floors an welded new sheet metal in and of course it was rusted under the drivers side seat rail. Since I had to take that one out I figured may as well remove them all. What a PITA. The guy with the spot welder who Installed them at nissan must have been having a bad day because there were spot welds on top of spot welds. That's been the worst job I've done so far on the car. I bent up some 1/16 plate to make new seat rails to fit Miata seats and to put them lower at a normal height. I'm 6'1 and with the stock Z seat my helmet was touching to roof at all times. That needed to be fixed.

I have read on LS1 tech that people go one size up over stock if they run high performance clutch setups. Apparently the stock GM is just enough to work?

So this it how it started. Isn't it always the way? It just followed me home! I haven't had a Z since the 80's. I spent the last several years building a Sunbeam Alpine. It had a Ford V6, I put in a T5 from a 2000 Mustang in it, Tru trac rear diff, 4 linked it, Mazda RX7 turbo brakes all around... So much stuff, but my wife can't stand riding in a car without AC down here, so unfortunately I had to pass it on so that cash is funding the Z project. Since I always had a soft spot for the Zs I started looking and found one in Texas. Of course I only could get a description over the phone and VERY few pictures, and guess what!!! I found one of the elusive rust free Z's. So without high hopes I headed to Texas to get it. 9 hours or so later there it was, in all its rusted glory! Actually it wasn't too bad. The usual rust in no structural places at all. Offered less than half of what we agreed on the phone and was ready to walk away. Next thing I know I'm at the uhaul place getting a trailer. So it all begins again. With this build I am buying as much bolt on already made items as possible. On my last car there was no support so I had to draw, design, get water cut, adapt EVERYTHING. I want this to go much faster. So quick summary from then to now is I got a 2004 GTO engine and transmission, JCI mounts, JTR headers are supposed to be here today. I pulled the rear drivetrain from a 91 Q45 and rear brakes to go with that from a Z32. Half the TTT rear suspension is here and the other half should be next week.