socorob

I'm borrowing it on the weekends. Car has to be able to go on skates to slide out the way during the week.

I was only going to metaphorically cut them. I'm trying to work on getting everything possible off of the front so I can sand, scrape, grind, weld....you get the picture. This is how far I am. Anyone need anything I'm pulling off, let me know.

You may want to bring a wench along too, in case the battery dies and you need someone to push the car up the ramps.

Thanks. From what I understand, the ballast resistors by the clutch master are no longer used. Can anyone confirm I have that right before I get out the wire cutters? Also some wires from there go to the relays by the battery under the black cover. From wiring diagrams one appears to be for the fuel pump. Can I gut those if I'm using the current performance ls swap fuse and relay block?

I had 1 box last 1 day and the replacement lasted about 2 weeks. I think both we're Chinese ones.

Finally got down to business this weekend. I see a lot of work in my immediate future.

http://bremboaftermarket.com/En/Car_Disc_Catalogue/Catalogue_Search.aspx?SearchMode=Size A lot of people with other classic cars that aren't as supported as the Z will use this site to find a rotor with the right bolt holes and thickness and then just make a simple bracket to mount their caliper to te car. It takes a lot of searching though.

Does your mustache bar have a crack in it on the left side?

Crap I forgot to yell at you and say thats what the search function is for, yahoo is your friend, this has been discussed a hundred times... i forgot I was on hybridz, sorry.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114214-tabco-hatch-area-replacement-part/ This guy just got it for $100

Oh yeah, their website is out of date, you have to call them. I got mine from them and it looks like a decent copy, but I haven't put it on yet. I usually weld but I think I might try body panel glue on that piece since that stuff is supposed to seal and have some kind of corrosion resistance in it. At least if you put a good bead around it, it will keep water from getting back in between there. That piece looks like it has a ton of spotwelds which I have been dreading. I suck ar drilling those out.

Slam panel from tabco. I heard thats who MSA buys it from anyway.

I had some GM calipers with parking brakes on a different car that I had to remove from the brackets and turn all around while tapping with a rubber mallet to get the air out of them. This was gravity bleeding with a clear tube going into a bottle of fluid. It was ridiculous how moving it all around and tapping, shaking and everything else then the tiniest bubble would come out. They sucked so badly but for some reason all the hot rod guys love them.

Muteki makes some like that as do a lot of other companies. I think some racing groups may require open lug nuts.

What triggers it to work in the stock setup? Does the ecm look at the brake being depressed, or speed sensors, or???

Does the phantom grip work in a short nose r200?

There's tons of 4wd truck places that will make them to whatever length you want and whatever thread you want in LH or RH thread. Just yahoo custom length 4 link bars.

Yeah once it cools off some and I actually get started. Hopefully it will be in the next couple weeks.

While I'm waiting for my turn to use the lift I have just been amassing parts. I have also started putting together sub assemblies as much as possible for a fast swap when it comes time. I'm on the northshore and I think NGO is on the West Bank. I also have a friend here who is going to do an LS swap so there's at least 4 of us in the area. I haven't started yet so I'm not sure how good of advice I'll be able to give, but I can try to help with what I know so far.

What trans mount did you use?

Brought the rotor and caliper to O'reillys. The guy let me test fit with their ceramic pads and it worked fine. I guess these hawks will be going back.

I finally pieced together the front brakes for my car. They consist of: 1986 Z31 pentagon 5 lug hubs 1986 Z31 slotted rotor Rotor spacer Toyota S12W calipers Hawk HPS Toyota brake pads When I tried to slide everything together for a test fit, it seems to be too tight. The rotor slides in but it drags on the pads. Are Hawk pads a little thicker than usual? On the back side of the pads are a thin metal piece, sort of an anti squeal shim or something like that. It appears to be glued on. Are those ok to remove? If I take those off it would give me at least a mm more of clearance and it may be enough room to spin freely. Is anyone else using this setup, and what components are y'all using?

I taped some of the cheap blue plastic conduit from Home Depot to my shop vac. You can also get a long brush for dryer vents for small hard to reach places. The plastic conduit will whistle pretty loudly though.

What backspaces, and how close do they come to the suspension?

What size are they?