socorob

I'm assuming the problem with the mount is the front of the diff wants to lift up under power. The sides of the mounts aren't too substantial. This is what I was thinking would help keep it down. Anyone see any problems with this before I cut the piece out? It will be bolted to the jacking plate holes in bottom of the crossmember there and I will drill 2 holes in the mount to have it all bolt on. I will probably weld an angle gusset or 2 to keep it from being able to bend.

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So would you opt for the big hole or the little hole?

Thanks everyone. My plan is to take a piece of angle and bolt it to the bottom of the crossmember that holds the front of the a arms on. I was thinking g to use the 2 bolts that held that heavy plate (for jacking I assume?) and using those to mount the bottom of the "L" and have it go toward the back of the car and turn up under the diff and bolt or weld it to the back side of the mount. It would be simple and add a lot more that the diff would need to twist before anything moves. Do y'all think it would be ok to drill 2 holes in te mount under the diff, say 5/16 or 3/8?

I think it says more about the guys character who is telling people his Datsun is a Ferrari.

Finally finished the bottom prep. I rust shielded it, sanded it, lizard skin sound then heat. It came out pretty good for my first try at it. Now I'm on to the fun part... Making my pile of stuff lighter every day while the datsun gets heavier.

So was it determined that the long tubes wouldn't work with JCI mounts?

Do you need to use a rising rate fpr with the turbo?

Never said anyone was evil, no idea where you pulled that out of. I was just saying Most people don't realize Hagerty is for a collector/show car, not a car that someone means to actually drive.

I need to order flares soon and trying to decide which ones to go with. I like the BAMF but my friends 10 + month wait for his kinda doesn't give me a good feeling about buying those.

Its been 3 years since I switched from them, so maybe they changed to not lose customers. Several LBC guys were dropping them like flies when that happened. My policy specifically said that in it, even though the agent on the phone said i could drive it to work sometimes, etc. Apparently the "dude on the phone said it was ok to drive it to work sometimes" argument didn't work out in court for that guy when his contract said differently.

I second just fixing what you have. Send the abbot box in for testing and if its not that it can only be a couple things. it would be harder to change a gauge out when its not really necessary, unless its your original speedometer that's bad, which I'm sure you can find one to replace that too.

Read your policy very carefully. It states the above limitations very clearly. The agents always tell everyone it's ok to drive it other times but that's not what you sign in writing. They will usually cover minor things outside their rules but a few years ago someone on a British car forums neighbor got into a bad accident with injuries ad hagerty used it as an out because the guy was on his way home from work.

With hagerty you're not allowed to drive your car except to car shows, auto shop and parades ONLY. I switched to American Collectors as they allow you to drive the car more. I chose the 7500 miles a year plan with an agreed value of 17,000 on my last car. It was 300 something a year. While I'm doing my swap I switched what was left of my old policy to the Datsun with the lowest mileage package and they refunded me $27.

Thanks. I was looking at how to do that this weekend. I was thinking about doing something like that on the back side but trying to figure out how to bolt it on so the diff could be easier to remove if needed. Do you have a better view of the front side from the rear?

Check the tubes?

As morbias called them unilug they were made to fit 2 different bolt spacings. Basically a universal wheel. The wheels on my Z have the same slots.

Are you sure they are drilled? I have seen a few sets like that over the years, and I doubt anyone would be able to drill a hole that accurately that close to another hole at home. I think some wheels used to come like that.

Check out the group buy on speedhuts.

Someone posted a link to O'reillys that showed that they had it on their website a few weeks ago.

I have a short nose r200 with the TTT mount. I haven't installed it yet so not sure how it even looks once mounted. What did you do to brace it?

I made some good progress lately. I spot welded just about everything from wheel well to wheel well. Yesterday I blasted the whole front area and bottom of the car and painted it with rust shield. That was something I don't care to do again, but the end result was worth it. Now to do a few small patches and seam seal, lizard skin, etc.

That's what i was wondering. Was it some sort of pace car?

I would like to do the same thing but keep all the lights. I have a 78 280 and I picked up 73 240 headlight buckets, valence, bumpers and turn signal pieces from the junk yard. I haven't gotten to where I see if they can all just cross over or not, but am interested in what you find out. I want a 280 with 240 turn signals.

This is what I had to do on an old British car once. There was no adapter kit made for it for the wheel I had. I went to oreillys and opened up all the grant adapter boxes until I found the one that looked like it was the closest to fit my wheel. I only was able to use the half that goes onto the steering wheel with the spring part that usually goes onto the clock spring. I had a piece of plastic conduit that happened to slide over my steering tube very tightly. I actually had to tap it on with a hammer. I got a big washer and drilled it out so the steering rod would fit through it without touching it. I put a screw through it where the conductor spring didn't slide around it so it wouldn't interfere. I connected the wire going into the car on the backside of that with a connector. Sort of a home made clock spring. That was for only 1 button though. You will just need to be creative.