socorob

It was on TV first.

While trying to find that video I ran across a few of people in the Middle East in the desert showing that their cars don't overheat any more using it. The question is what do they mean by not overheat? Since it doesn't boil it won't start steaming out like normal stuff would, BUT would the temperature still get high enough to do damage, even though there aren't any visible warning signs. The guys on the videos I watched said they do stay cooler though.

I picked up a 36 because they had up to 30 then it jumped to 36. I just must not be able to search this site well because I read tons of threads but didn't see that one. On summit's site they said the port on the wilwood was 3/8-24 so I guess I picked up the wrong one. I had a wilwood clutch master and pull slave I put into my last car. The master was fine but I had to rebuild the slave in under 2 years. I'm getting really close to being able to get seriously moving on this. I'm just lacking Several small detail items and in about 2 weeks or so the lift will be freed up and then its on. i got my floors all patched, welded bad dog rails in, and bent up new seat brackets for Miata seats on the brake and made them low enough to keep my head off the roof even with a helmet on. My goal is to be driving before it gets too cold.

No expansion, at least not at car engine temperatures I think it was on wheeler dealers where he popped the radiator cap off a totally hot engine and not a drop came out. He was using gloves of course because it is still the same temp as the water would be. They were talking about how it doesn't corrode aluminum engines like a water based coolant will. It is expensive though.Jay Leno uses it in his Duesenburg to stop corrosion. http://youtu.be/s-NfA17q0MQ

You could use Evans waterless coolant and then there would be no pressure.

Don't know if this will help in your situation or not, but... The last car I had the engine was higher than the radiator. It had a reverse flow cooling system. The way I used to do the initial fills was to remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator. I would fill the radiator slowly as to not make an air pocket until it started coming out the upper outlet on the radiator where the hose was just removed from. I would then fill the engine through the upper radiator hose that I turned up as much as I could. I would fill it to the top of the hose and try to stick it back on and tighten it very quickly. That would get it about 99% full. Then I would keep an eye on the overflow bottle as it would suck a little out of there the first few times I drove it until it was filled (which wasn't much).

Been reading trying to figure out what length clutch line to get. Today I will be passing a speed shop that's a little over an hours drive from here and has cheap -AN lines and fittings. I will be using the Wilwood master. I've seen people using from 32-48" lines. What's a decent length that can be strapped down nicely and does anyone happen to know the thread in the Wilwood?

Ran across this resin for foam on youtube. May be helpful for dash repairs.

the "-" is just a ground plane.

That Safety Hub 150 looks nice. Is the one large lug on the left side the lug where you land the hot and are all circuit hot sides tied together with a bus bar? If so, is there a way to remove the bus bar to have separate power inputs? I haven't looked at the Z wiring diagram, are all the fusible links fed from a common power source, and you can just tie it all together?

This one would be good for the larger amperage one http://www.iboats.com/Blue-Sea-Maxi-Fuse-Block/dm/cart_id.739373031--session_id.612863346--view_id.38416 This would suffice for the smaller amperage ones http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46011/MAXI-FUSE-BLOCK-HOLDER/ I've been reading these threads and a lot of the maxi blocks people have been putting on here are rated for 100 amps or less , that's the rating for the WHOLE block, not each circuit. 70+40+40+40 > 100. That's probably why people are having trouble with them loosening and things of that nature. They are using them for more than they are designed to carry. I would hate to see anyone burn their car to the ground because they didn't check specs.

I know for tech at the race track here, you're supposed to have an inspection hole somewhere in the cage so they can see the thickness. Maybe drag strips aren't as strict as race tracks.

I never heard either in real life just you tube videos of each. I really do dig the V12 ish sound of the freqmod dr gas mufflers. It's just hard to tell how loud they actually are from a video.

I probably saw 6 or so before I got my Z without really even looking for them. I have only seen 3 since. A 280 that had decent interior panels so I grabbed all those. I'm still waiting for one to show up with the couple parts I'm missing.

A lot off the pro touring guys seem to like spintechs. The Dr Gas makes a V8 sound sort of Ferrari ish.

How did you mount the fan to the radiator? That is a Taurus fan, isn't it?

I was looking at the spintechs and Dr. Gas (just because of the sound of the frequency mod mufflers). I want a deep sound, but not very loud. I had flowmasters in the past and they would drone at highway speeds, so I'm kind of leery of those.

DomZ, How loud is that setup and what muffler did you use?

Today I was doing my usual weekly search of the local pullaparts to see if any S30s popped in, and I decided to check the whole country. Looks like there is a 74 in Indianapolis and a 77 in Montgomery. Cheap parts for anyone local to those. http://www.pullapart.com/inventory/search.aspx http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx?Address=70448&Lat=30.355073&Lng=-90.046656&Make=Datsun&Model=280&Distance=25000

http://hytechsales.com/ I saw this place talked about on a few other sites but haven't been able to get in touch with them to find out more info. They apparently have a heat and sound all in one spray on that's half the price of lizard skin.

There was a guy with a locost with a hyabusa engine here a few years back and he had it registered as a motorcycle some way. He had to drive it with a helmet because of that.

If you want something relatively cheap and fast for autox why don't you just build a locost? It would be much easier than all of this grafting business.

I hope I can get all the little forgot to think of items locally. I hate when a project has tonsit a week waiting on 1 little part to come in the mail. I think I"m doing too much at once... spot welding all the seams, TTT rear suspension setup with Q45 diff, LS swap, probably lizard skin, then figure out rims, tires and flares. I think I will use Vintage Wheel Works 45 wheels in either 16 or 17 inch.

There's none to find around these parts, so I had to stretch my search out to all the way up there. I didn't get that good of a deal as you did, but I don't think it was too bad. It had only a few rust spots in the usual places, nothing too bad. I've fixed most of them and am about finished welding on the bad dog rails. Soon as I finish a few more spots I will be ready to start my swap. That and as soon as the brown dressed man that drives the brown truck starts coming to visit.

http://www.nostreetracing.org/forums/forum.php?s=cd2d8cd7d56497aaaee96b86dc2b3762 Maybe someone here might know?