Tony D

Thanx Mods! Don't know where that was coming from... Maybe see you in a couple of weeks Peter! One night layover in Sydney between Noumea and LAX. I better check my ETA for Oz, I think it ran out in March!

I can't go to the first page to see what can he's using or degreeing, but simply reading the dial indicator and noting vale lift is pretty basic skillset. Same one you use to determine TDC. Understand something: this isn't a DOHC so there is ONE event you can set. Intake opening or intake closing. Reading the indicator tells you this point. Make that point according to the stock chart in the FSM... Or some other spec. Most cam manufacturers post the events online. There's your reference...

Yes, the stock manifolds warp, and suffer from uneven expansion. The harder you use them, the worse it will be. For the cars delivered in Europe with diff coolers and 3.36 differentials and 20 more HP, intended for extended running on the autobahn under boost they indeed got a totally different exhaust manifold with larger internal size, and cast in three pieces using expansion joints. Go to JeffP's "Extreme 280ZXT" page at Angelfire and read all about it. If you haven't heard about the issues with stock manifolds, you haven't been looking.

You use a dial indicator and profile the cam. From there it's veritable child's play to make your own cam card detailing opening and closing events, determining lobe separation angle, etc... From there there are general rules of thumb regarding opening events of the intake valve, and you can go from there. As for the exhaust -- ray if it's the "new" exhaust with three bolt flanges on it, that is exactly right: t hugs one side of the tunnel. The older exhaust with slip fit pipes apparently was the source of complaints, so they "idiot proofed"" it with the flanges and a relocation of the pipe routing. I no longer use that exhaust, I replicate the earlier one with mandrel bends out of bends and straight tubing now.

Absolutely impossible with the stock turbo at that level. He lied to you.

No "stock" 240 came from Nissan with any kind of striping.

I mean, it almost sounds like as you get oil pressure your safety switch is opening and stopping your pump. It's supposed to pump in the "crank" position, and once it fires, the oil pressure switch is your hold-in as it closes with 2-3psi. You do have a two-prong oil sender on the engine, right? That is where I would snoop, personally. Good Luck!

Your fuel pump switch is opening and closing. On some models the AFM flapper has a switch and as the car idles down the pump shuts off, pressure drops, the mix gets right it fires, the AFM flapper moves the pump comes back on, goes rich from high fuel pressure and the cycle repeats. The later cars use an oil pressure switch which wasn't supposed to do that, but... Like SleeperZ suggests, find out if your pump is turning on and off. With 40psi you may also have an obstruction in your return line---blow through it to check if it's clear. Once you know what the pump I scoring, you then just need to see why, which is straightforward, not much in the system. Use the CORRECT FSM DIAGRAM! Like i said, the control circuit changed in 76 I think, so early books won't reflect way is in the later two years of production. Reading the right manual saves a lot of headaches!!!

I believe someone (me) mentioned Loctite RC608Cylindrical Parts Locker Permatex#2 is a no no, total misapplication, it's a flange sealant...and a poor one at that! The heat will leave your sleeve as fast as you put it into it, and chances are good you will overheat it locally, warp and ruin it. Removing a speedy sleeve put on with green locking compound is a piece of cake: 1100F heat gun (or even a crackheads torch) aimed at the sleeve will turn it red hot, and buckle it almost instantly-grab an edge with a needle nose pliers and tear it off the shaft like theseal on a sardine or ham tin. I've installed a few of these in my time... And removed just as many! If you must have differential, go to Albertsons or your Linde / Welding supply and get 5# of dry ice. Pack your flange and freeze the hell out of it! That will give you far more working time due to retention than heating the sleeved ever will.

Agree with Gollum, you're about 100hp high unless you got Ron Isky's magic cam, ports flowing 230cfm, and a GT35R Turbo. You will be lucky spinning 200@8psi on the setup you stated. What the car needs is a Japan-Spec Sunny GTi-R intercooler scoop for the top mounted I/C... Totally period correct!

I asked the question once upon a time. Nobody came up with an answer. I lurked on this thread to see where it went. Interesting...

I'll get poo-poohed by the purists, but consider running a 160 thermostat. The underhood temperatures are CONSIDERABLY LOWER than if you runs 190 or 180 thermostat. Yeah, theoretically and practically you loose a percentage of power from thermal losses... But then again boiling fuel and having to get out of it for a while costs you power as well. Sounds like ypu're borderline, the 30F+ drop in underhood temperatures may do it for you.

Fender Mirrors have a Nissan Part Numbet, and are available in the inventory in Japan for certain.

Find, and eat, that rabbit. But only after extracting how it was wired before he at it. WARNING: if he sticks a paw into your rifle barrel, DO NOT pull the trigger!!! Likewise, if he knots the barrels, don't pull the trigger then, either!

Put it on a home made trailer-mounted dyno and calibrated same... And then got in line. We're #4 off the line Sunday Morning... 278RWHP but at almost 2K lower peak!

A & B are the same, it just depends on flow requirements how you plumb it. Running a 400HP 50 Solex drag monster? Then B. Just about anything else will work fine on A. The regulator after carbs allows full output of the pump to feed the carbs under load. These are simplified diagrams, they don't show the surge tank which most will use for serious track applications. Many Japanese setups will run three pumps, off multiple pickups and a main surge tank feed Pump to the carbs...

Ours went clean through and was done on a Bridgeport using a cobalt drill. Spot face for centerpunch, drill clean through, ream to finish then press/shrink/drive whatever pin you decide upon through covered in red loctite and stake in place.

SOB! There has to be something working that manifold. Is your exhaust clear through those chassis holes out back? Only thing I can think of is when the engine is torquing over, something in back contacts and puts a strain on the flange. After a few cycles, it begins leaking. With the studs out of the manifold, getting it flat is a simple matter of a second on a belt sander and maybe some figure-8's on an Emory cloth covered glass lapping surface. After its dead flat, if it happens again consider using a flexible joint between head pipe and the rest of the exhaust. Or convert to turbo, it uses a conventional exhaust donut to seal!

So JSM has given us "The List"... Who's up for a Punishment Road Trip? I'll bring the oak and hickory sticks... Lets avenge the gods of wiring!!!

Dril undersized, ream to final dimension, install pin with Loctite Red and stake the ends.

Did I miss it at The Mojave Mile last weekend?

Pin it.

30 mph in 4th? 20 in third? You're lugging the engine, of course it is going to be boggy-soggy as hell when driven like that! I don't know your rear gearing, and it's been so long since I drove a stock over-geared US Spec cari don't remember the shift points any more, but generally you want to be cruising at a MINIMUM of 2500-3000 RPMs to get smooth proper acceleration. That being said, depending on how much throttle you lay into it, it can "pull smoothly" from 1000 RPMs intop gear if the throttle opening change isn't that big, you just don't go anywhere fast. More throttle opening gets you into the bucking response of a lugging engine which diminishes as RPMs rise.

Send and enquiry to Velasco's Crankshaft Service and you will get a precise price and not a ballpark guess.