Tony D

Try Harmonic Balancer, ATI, or BHJ in your search criterion...

Paeco, Birmingham Alabama. Snap gauges and digital caliper under $30 shipped to your door from Harbor Freight. Good luck on your alignment, you only have to be "close enough" for it to work. This seems acceptable to you from the posts thusfar. Hammer, spanners, and a cam is all you need to do that.

Yes, they insure DRIVING cars, not collectable or classic cars. At the minimum get a stated value policy and you will pay accordingly as any other car of similar value (Y2K Frontier worth 7k, over 1100 per year in daily driver status.) I changed to a stated value policy through Haggerty with values of 7, 7, 10, 10 on the two Z's and two VW Busses I own and as "pleasure vehicles" which is how Haggerty Classifies them, the bill wasn't anywhere near what the Frontier was costing! My two "conventional" policies through AAA are even more than they are, for a 260 Z beater Turd Mobile, and my 1990 Chevy Dually. $350 annually. And the trick there is NEITHER of them is classified a daily commuter, either! I explained I only spent 115 days in the USA last year, and rotating driving amongst EVERY vehicle daily can only possibly result in X miles being driven. Considering many if them are WEEKEND days where I'm driving"for pleasure" they decided to underwrite the policy as all pleasure. In reality, each of the vehicles gets just under 7,000 miles a year by MY driving. Now.... If I was in the country more... I'd be screwed!

Flights to Haneda are cheap this time of year. You can get restricted nonrefundables for under $800. do it inconjunction with the Oadiba Swap Meet or other event near the airport and your transportation costs are minimal. Have him rent a van through MWR for the time you're there. Petrol is currently ¥140~153/L exchange rate 74.02 as of Friday. Set up a bank wire ahead of time so when you spend your legal carry on cash, you can get more sent (or better yet still, have it waiting for you when you arrive!!!) Had I done the latter, my opportunity at Nostalgia 2Days would have been FAR more fruitful! Next step: engaging a shipping company to crate and ship my booty homeward via sea freight. 1.5m X 1.5m X 2.5m crate runs about $500 to ship to LA, I would assume similar to Bayonne or Buffalo. Cost of the actual crate varies and can be as much as the shipping. But if you happen to have a company sending large parts to the country in reusable crates and have access to them after their cargo is used... Well, you don't pay for the crate! Making a list, checking it twice. Gonna buy stuff that's really really nice! Tony D is coming to town! LOL

And thus it begins..

I'm normally not a guy to chuck stones at someone's project, but it may bear pointing out something... The word "rat rod" is currently taking on vernacular for "bit off too much to chew, so because I can't finish it properly, but itmoves..." The car is shown without the hood, but it's included... I posit the REASON the hood is not shown is because most potential buyers will be scared off by the fact that the exhaust from the turbine exits FORWARD AND UP through where the old radiator used to be... So the hood must have some sort of heat shield to keep the paint from being burned off. Not tomention driving through a continuous 1100F stream of CO-Enrichened airflow being provided to the passengers compartment. I don't know that rolling the windows down in this instance will help much... You guys complain about fumes in an S30... Methinks someone went for his first ride and realised this last point and decided to sell. He kinda ought mention this in the ad copy. "Need to fab undercar exhaust and patch big hole I cut I put in the original hood."

Looks like the powerplant from an A/N -60A Gas Turbine Generator Set. From which, if you condemn the tachometer you have a 6000 rpm = 100% unit that looks bitchenwicked in your dashboard. Nothing as ominous to your passengers than a 720 degree rotation tachometer reading out 45% going down the road at 65mph! Even better us running down the road at 110%!!! Yes, I am serious.

You guys are complaining that you don't have to lay in the dirt to change a starter any longer?!?!????? Ungrateful BASTARDS! 383 Chrysler, long tube headers, spring, dirt parking lot and 32.5F so NOTHING is solid! I would have KILLED to do a manifold yank and change the starter! Oh, and remember to disconnect the battery before you drop that starter onto the headers...

Kid, Wife, House... Any more need to be said? Maybe surface at ZCON 2012 in Phoenix...

Find the kid in a dark alley with a baseball bat. Recover your damages (or "transfer them") in the Fat Tony way of insurance "adjustment"!

Did it ever leave the middle east?

"Running up post count to post in classifieds"

I will plan on it, Frank & Ian bought tickets this past week so I'm told. Arrive April 25, take in MSA, a week of running about, do the Mojave Mile the following weekend, and depart May 7th! Busy Z time of the year in So Calfor me!

Well, Josh Inline 6 & me. The only ones who mentioned measurement before jumping into the "throw parts at it parade"!

You can't simply line bore the towers (any line bore, unless oversize, this being true) The bearing bores must first be made undersized, then bored back to standard at correct Center-to-Center distance. There is NOT enough material remaining for line boring. And for the record, Bluestang did not mention lineboring, he postulated the machine shop made the mistake thinking there were bearing inserts used in the towers... Without measurements it's all useless theory. No diametrical dimensional checks were done, or if they were dimensions were not provided. Frankly Josh was the only voice of reason providing an answer of practicality---they DONT need to be mirror finish, they DO need to be dimensionally correct. Pulling two sets of towers and manually lining them up us a LOT more work than getting a set of snap gauges and MEASURING them to determine if they are OVERSIZED, therefore ruined, and THEN calling for replacement or line boring. Replacing them because they have a surface profile is stupid without a dimensional check beforehand.

I've used them for years. In fact I've misapplied them to repair vacuum pumps and liquid ring pumps as well! I don't recall now if the instructions call for it, but I've installed them with Loctite RC608 cylindrical parts locker with great effect.

"Working on an S20 version"? It was installed on the white and red box skyline one row over! My favourite was the test ride in the Rocky Auto 1UZ-Powered Box Skyline! But that wasn't on the weekend... It was Wednesday after the show at their shop. Whatcha know... Rocky Auto is a short drive from one of my customers!!! I wouldn't worry about longevity on gear drives for Camshafts... It's FAR less than chain stretch in the same time period. I checked the backlash on their setup and it's TIGHT at room temperature. Far more accurate than ANY chain! I'd look forward to the adaptation to the stock L-Gata SOHC configuration! The Z build has considerable changes from the original 80's version. Talking with the booth guys, the oldest one there said the name IMMEDIATELY of the owner of the car in Okinawa that I'd ridden along with back in 85/86. They know where their stuff is, throwing doubt on the claims OS someone who claimed in the 90's to have gotten one of their heads for testing and porting... Still a whizz-bang lookit me accessory IMO, but a MUCH IMPROVED whizz-bang lookit me accessory. I had no Internet till now, so no post from me. I'll have to try to get the videos of the cars doing their parade laps, good sounds! I spent a butt oaf of money on archival material at the show... I completely forgot about it, until a frenzied e-mail exchange had me on too many planes, trains, and automobiles Friday evening for a meeting in Hiroshima... I arrive at NRT early Saturday morning and I'm greeted by Okamura-San with "Tony San, thank you for coming...Nostalgia Two Days this weekend -- you go?" Damn those required entertainment expenses! :^P

WOAH WOAH WOAH WOAH! Have ANY of you guys ever heard of 'line boring'? This is a PERFECT time to discuss with the shop manager their REPAIR of the damage done---which is one of two possible ways: 1) Heliarc the damaged areas undersize, and line-bore. 2) Turn Inserts (can be bronze if you wish) and then insert and line-bore. With a head that has been milled extensively, this is the PERFECT answer to regain cam-to-crank centerline dimension without the use of shims (other than the resultant lash pads...) by using offset bushings in the cam towers. This is all basic machine work that any competent machine shop should be able to do. But then again, there's that word 'competent'... And I don't know that a guy running beads onto bearing surfaces fits that description. Some time with snap-gauges is in order as mentioned above...but even if they're the correct size---where is all the media? If they didn't take the time to cover the bearing areas, do you think they plugged the oil passages as well? I'd be in for a bristle-brush and solvent cleaning session on that thing like you wouldn't believe! And I'd still get them to give you a free line boring...

Well, if they're strong enough to hoist the entire complete car up, place in a container suspended by chains and binders, and then take an ocean voyage across the half the world I would think stationary lifting wouldn't be an issue... You may want to look at some of my Facebook Album Pages Jochen...the back garden has captive more than one 240Z suspended in the blue and silver containers as discussed! (and as an experiment we were going to try stacking the cars in a 'u' configuration... having hoisted the first up, then pivoting it so the wheel side was facing the outer wall...but the dimensions weren't right. So yeah, they can be rotated at least 90 degrees with those as the sole lifting points... But as mentioned balance will be tricky.)

"In the USA"... Japan has a shocking plethora of 14" tyres available. But none hold that DOT certification, only JIS. The slicks available there in 13 & 14" boggle the mind!

Problem with that is unless the vehicle is out of your name, you're still liable for it. I know people who did not complete the red 'transfer of liability' (and some who did!) who got nailed for costs relating to accidents when the guy they sold their car to up to TWO YEARS BEFORE because they never transferred the title (and for that matter never got the car registered!) Yeah, they ignored the registration notices that showed up as 'big government mistakes' or may have given them to the guy saying "they sent this to me by mistake." Nah, wasn't a mistake. You still own the car until that title has been transferred to the other party, and that transfer has been registered with the state. Somewhere, someone is listed as titleholder or owner. If it's you, think long and hard about cavalier dismissal of what may happen should your friendly, goodnatured gesture hangs you out by your testicles. Spoken as someone who saved parts from a trash bin, only to be charge with stealing them. No good deed goes unpunished. Transfer the vehicle properly and legally get it out of your name. VIN transfer without a vehicle is a federal crime. They frown on it in a big way.

"I was just trying to help not do anything illegal." Take them to the DMV as a package and tell them the car was destroyed (cut up into parts and scrapped)---I know several people who have done this, it legally removes the VIN from the public record and ceases any and all liability you have for the vehicle. If they decide they want to charge you for the privilege, leave the parts on the counter and walk away. It's their problem at that point. They are obligated to do the administrative deregistration of the vehicle after being notified of it's status.

Sadly, that's the truth for many swaps, and it is all that should matter. Sadder still is the fact that they are allowed to paint a "moving target" in regards to standards, on a justification of statistical norming-slowly narrowing the "acceptable range" of allowable emissions so that a perfectly clean car one year will eventually not pass in subsequent years to to the moving benchmarks. How come grading on a Bell Curve is a bad thing, and must be eliminated. But those who benefit from an eliminated Bell Curve in school then decide that a Bell Curve is a GOOD thing when dealing (legislating) with something else???

The resistance/temperature response curves are identical for IAT, CTS, CHTS in all the L-Series Engine applications (and across Nissan for that matter...)

Oh, and he used to dip custom bulbs, but due to global warming the glass dyes are no longer available (that actually last)---I've had a set of his "Tequila Sunrise" city lights in my 73 since the mid 90's, headlights look yellow from any angle but dead straight ahead, when they look red... CHP hates them, but darned if they aren't yellow when they get out to look! LOL Before that, my city lights were green...deep beautiful green. Green enough for Buena Park PD to issue an "Unlawful Headlights" citation which the judge dismissed. And which precipitated the move to Tequila Sunrise...