Tony D

They make self-regulating heaters you stick on the oil pan to preheat the oil, by proxy, if you leave them operating in a still air environment (the shed) they will do a nice job of preheating the block and water in there as well...in conjunction with a block water heater you can have an engine close to operating temperature almost immediately. Can't hurt... What I like about it was that my 7.4L Chevy didn't run in cold start mode AT ALL and my fuel mileage went up considerably because of that! ESPECIALLY during the colder winter months. For something that is driven short distances with EFI, it can make an impact not running rich for 3 minute shot to the tobacconist or OTB Parlor on a cold Sunday morning... We run the pan heater on the Bonneville car (summitt.com) to keep the big sump oil pan heated. We then run the car briefly to heat up the coolant before going into the staging lanes and to check for leaks. Firing it off with warm oil seems to make for a much quicker warmup---as I said I think it' heating the block water as well! Makes for an easier start on EFI when doing initial tuning with cold start and all the enrichments are turned off as well! oil pan heater testimonials coolant heater link From the site: "Built-in thermostat prevents overheating and burnout. Keeps engine warm by circulating warm engine coolant through entire engine. Quicker heater and defroster output. Connects to 5/8" heater hose-;operates on regular AC house current. 120 volt. With 1-ft. grounded cord and instructions. 750-Watt. Warms 4-cylinder engines in 2-3 hours, 6-cylinder engines overnight. 1,000-Watt. Warms 6-cylinder engines in 2-3 hours, 8-cylinder engines overnight. CAVEAT: A block heater DOES NOT NECESSARILY HEAT THE OIL! I prefer and recommend the oil pan heater for people who are only going to put ONE heater on---it's FAR more important to have warm oil, that warm coolant. Sure, if it's -40 the block heater will give you heat in the car immediately, but your oil is like -20 and trying to pump to the top end of the engine on startup! Oil heater will as stated, also help heat the block, but not vice-versa! 1,500-Watt. Warms 8-cylinder engines in 2-3 hours. "

' Scenario, death valley during a high pressure front moving through, -20 degree F, 0% humidity, you'll make big power. Problem with that is depending on the tire type, compound etc, available grip might not be ideal, but that's what tire warmers and burnouts are for, right?' (Yes, this crossed my mind there, and made note to check things the next visit...been there, done that!) Not -20, but it will get to 0 there on a cool night. And yes you can feel it. During the day, though, because of Death Valley's unique situation, the UV will heat macadam pavement considerably warmer than almost anyplace else in the USA. So your traction is considerably better than you THINK it should be for the recorded ambient. Outside Trona, gateway to Death Valley in March: As for 'what has been read' the basic premise is that altitude will affect turbo cars less than N/A because the turbo will 'equalize' WOT manifold pressures... at 12,000 feet, an N/A will have something less than 100kPa available for breathing, so it will make considerably less power. The turbocharged car, since it doesn't open the wastegate until BOOST is reached will still have this same level of boost. You then have to figure turbo efficency loss due to operating at a different pressure ratio (the same thing happening to the N/A will now happen to the turbo, and it will have to 'pump harder' to reach the same psiG manifold pressure meaning operating in a different efficiency island) and then you have less dense air for cooling the intercooler so there is another loss there....meaning while in THEORY the turbo car should not be affected at all, in reality they ARE affected but nowhere near like an N/A would be because the turbo is helping the engine breathe. 20% psiA inlet pressure loss due to altitude, say similar loss in N/A horsepower, but only 8% loss on a turbo (example, not actual numbers, look at the Pike's Peak Race and see why guys run Turbos there!) I mean the OP seems to have stated 5K feet is required to make a difference---if you can tolerate a 16.7% loss in V.E. then I think you don't need to concern yourself with asking the question. I can't tolerate that kind of a loss and deem it not a "HUGE" difference. Even 1000 feet means a 3.5% loss, and that is significant, 10HP on an N/A car, and that's 10% by 3K feet. I could feel the difference between O.C. and Big Bear. Halfway up I could tell the N/A was loosing significant power. AS TO THIS: " A turbocharged engine may also have reduced power, but the reduction will be less dramatic because the thinner air is easier for the turbocharger to pump. " Beware of wearing blinders and making absolute statements or generalizations based on writing like this, I don't know who wrote that, but it's as ignorant a statement and devoid of the realities of compression theory and practice that I think I could find engineers in some companies that would like to do the author physical harm for writing something so stupid.

you guys must keep a LOOOOOOOT of intimate and personal stuff on the computer that you are this paranoid about someone looking up your porn proclivities... Hot Goat Meat Dot Com may titillate you, but chances are when I buy a used computer the first thing I do will be C:Format and start fresh with my own load of O.S. if you're selling to someone who depends on YOUR prior license to run the O.S. chances are they won't be smart enough to find anything you left behind, and if they DID find it, they wouldn't know what they were looking at anyway... if it bugs you that much, drill/smash the H.D. sell it without the H.D. They're cheap. Otherwise, it can be recovered.

'not one person here can tell you if this turbo is too big or not, ' L28? too big. I'll lay money on it. The manner of the posting tells loads about his intended usage, if you've been around the site any at all you could see this. If a GT45 is too big for ME making 700+, chances are it's a 'compensation and intimidation show car piece' for anybody else with an L28...

Talking with someone "your own age' usually doesn't produce a much different opinion than what is already extant. Nobody who's 20 can tell you what 30 is going to be like. Period.

connecting air pressure to he sensor hole should put direct pressure into the underside of the restrictor---this will prevent chips from entering as pressure is blowing out while you drill if the rest of the system is assembled, that's about the only way to get out easily.

"I've seen some comments in the archives about it being pointless to rev the LD28 beyond 6500. Is that the case?" It's the intrnet, people state a lot of ignorant and stupid shite, a lot of times they are talking out their arse. This is one of those instances... The cam determines the behaviour of the engine far more than anything else. Frankly, the rpms you propose are actually more street-cam than 'racing'... 7700 is just getting started.

I'll be in Manila on the 22nd... UNfortunately my trip to Japan from Manila last month didn't return, I ended up going to China. What do you want? PM Me with a mobile number, when I hit town I can sms you, I have a Globe local number I use when I'm in Manila. Have some work in Cavite to do, but other than that looks like I will be idle over Thanksgiving so maybe I'll go south and sit on a typhoon hammered beach in Lucena or something. But meeting a Z Guy in Manila would be cool as hell! I have someone who buys stuff for me, and then I pick it up when I go to Japan. But that's usually 'the last stop'---don't want to deal with customs in Manila Airport for reasons you are probably well aware of!

So I take it you want the magnetic media intact for the next user then... Otherwise a hammer works well. C:Format several times, and a BIG magnet tends to wipe it pretty clean of everything as well. I set a hardrive in the degaussing coil we use for rotors and that worked too...

A 'ported' or even 'extrude honed' intake will cut about 30cfm off a properly ported cylinder head. It will be a restriction, but it won't stop the car from making more than 700HP and pulling hard to over 7500rpms...

it's not your intake causing the surge, the above HP number was achieved with the stock intake...

Wasn't that the premise for a very gory mutant sheep movie from your country? I can't remember the name, but the tag line was "New Zeland has 40 Million Sheep and now they're PISSED!" Some mutant sheep/human crossbreeding involved. Very funny, and a nice old Toyota FJ was wrecked going over one of those aforementioned vertical cliff walls to the sea... Forgot the 'Start with the Z' part... Saw first Z at Forest Rallies in the UP of Michigan (SCCA PRO Rally) they were of little consequence...I was more interested at that time in P-Cars and V-Cars and the occasional Audi Q-Car. In other words 'they were there, they didn't register except in hindsight'... Firs cognisant recollection of a Z was the spoiled brat Lawyer's Kid who brought one over to the house after daddy bought it for him for his 16th Birthday when he got his license to drive (Do the Math, people... this was 1980!) I walked up to see what it was and my brother raved about it... I was not impressed. I had my Microbus. But 'it was fast'... I didn't care. As a matter of fact, my words were "I don't like it, the nose is too long." (Trace of irony in that in retrospect.) I repeated this several times as my brother exhorted it's speed capability. I still didn't like it. I liked my bus. And my bus turned 15.50's all day long at Milan so it would eat that POS Japanese car anyway. If you're buying from an Axis Power, get one that at least has some engineering heritage and a direct link to Der Furer... Fast forward 4 years, I'm driving my slammed Two-Tone Purple (some silver tint in the metallic paint for the beltline accent) Toyota Carina GT with DOHC 2-Liter 18RG and headers on Rte 58 past Johnny's Used Car Lot out the main gate of Kadena AFB and there it sat: 1975 Fairlady Z(s) in that ZG-Maroon Color you see on the model boxes. I don't know if it was the sun on the bonnet, but I whipped a U-Turn and drove in. 98,630KM and fresh down from the mainland. Plastic mats, nothing extra save the super-frigid Nissan Tropical A/C system. Right then and there, I traded my 1980 Carina GT and wrote them three post-dated checks for $240 (talk about eerie coincidence!) and came back the next day for the car. I drove it off the lot, and the transition hose blew at the back of the engine, dumping the coolant. Walked back to Johnnies. Not 300 meters off the lot it was overheated. Spent the next couple of weeks working very closely with the Johnny's mechanics solving that... And the rest, as they say, "Was History"

I would agree with that assessment. A GT35 will have surge issues midrange at higher boost levels because the engine can't process the minimum flows required off the compressor wheel when using a .63 A/R. For a stock headed engine the GT30 is probably a better choice. Just for comparison, our Bonneville Development Engine is over 700HP, and for the altitude we likely will be running a GT37 or maybe a GT42 IF we can get a hotside A/R in the 0.82 range. And I'm laying money our RPM and Power levels are a tad more stringent that what you are considering! Right now we're between a GT35 which runs out of air (we're stonewalling the compressor), and a GT37 which handles the flow, but won't at 4200 feet of Bonneville's Track.

Go to the Z Man Of Washington site or talk to Oliver in person, he has pretty detailed instructions for the door seal installation that goes with the kit he sells. Basically the same kit, but Oliver can talk you through it (if you buy it from him...which I would recommend since he works on the cars and is a great guy to talk with!) Everything else is pretty straightforward, but the doors do take some attention.

I'm Tony, and I'm old. I fly around and act interested while people confess their stupidity to me and then blame me, or my company's products for not withstanding their stupidity. Occasionally we make our own stupid mistakes, and then I get to be yelled at and smile back as I fix it... It beats sitting in the cubicle, designing brackets for military ground support equipment. I leave Monday for Someplace 12 hours different than where I am now... Repeat weekly.

The only requirement on a 77 would be some fuel pump relay jumpers (through that inertial switch as mentioned) and a different regulator. There are more out there on the market, they sell them in Summitt, Jegs, etc... The stock EFI pump is what supported me on my blowthrough turbo at well over 300HP, for N/A Webers it's a cakewalk for that pump...and it's QUIET! Worst case, you hook up to the fuel pump pigtail under the carpet behind the passenger's seat with some bullet connectors and run your relays and switch under the dash...

There is a formula for that, we use it when designing compressors, and for checking their performance per stage in the field. It takes into account the pressure ratio, efficiency of the stage, etc. It's more involved than PV=nRT, but pretty close. Cooling the intake air helps more on density, if you want REALLY lower temperatures, use a lower pressure. I have seen L28's making 350+HP at 8PSI of boost... Sure, an intercooler will make it more 'efficient' but at 8psi intercooling is not a 'mandatory' item if you size the compressor accordingly. Also where you are on the compressors efficiency map will make quite a bit of difference in discharge temperature as well.

What's wrong with 'dynamometer'? I know when I'm on the dynamometer, I often have a mate stand near the back to watch the colour of the exhaust smoke, and to track tyre growth and movement. Always good to have a second set of eyes... But always remind them to stand clear of the engine, chuck a gudgeon pin and it's lights out like a dead torch!

Is this somehow unclear: "if you put one of those flowmaster shorties on there after a glasspack..."

Not 100, only 26, and they all were within 0.1 second of each other. For the longest time I knew where those time slips were... They were good for a reference because a lot of guys put stock in the 1/4 mile calculators and that shows (from my recollection) 202HP...which I think is total BS, but they all come out around the same. Guess that's 'flywheel' so my drivetrain is a 55HP loss...what's that "30%" I'm sure this will find it's way into someones inflated claims now when their RWHP numbers show up shy... "Tony D had a 30% driveline loss"! That car was where I confirmed "Butt Dyno Correction Factor" the Webers and Header FELT fantastic, but only spun the wheels out back to 88HP!!! Did a tune up involving plug wires, putting on an EFI harness and ECU with 146,000 miles on it, etc and eventually got it to 147HP. My best time ever was a 15.30 on a 40 degree day---San Antonio was like 95-110F!!! I'm not sure my technique is right, I just hold it at the line with the e-brake, rev the car to at least 3000 and dump the clutch feathering the throttle to keep it from spinning. It usually hooks more or less and I shift at 6300 or 6500 out of 1st and 2nd, and cross the traps at 89-90mph just before I'd shift into fourth. I've gotten similar performance out of several other vehicles in that range, lighter cars in the high 14's. It just takes attention to details and generally I don't spend a lot of money on 'performance parts' until I get a good consistent baseline figure of power near that point. If more people did that, I think the performance market would transform...or go broke! Once you got it dialed in, you can really see what changes when you do a modification. I took the CAI kit off because I thought it was too noisy...put the stock filter back on with a K&N Replacement Filter. Didn't see any appreciable change in anything! So now, I just get the filter and leave the stock box---haven't cut the box top yet, but might in deference to the old "SharkZX Air Cleaner Mod" from the old days at ZC.C! Never know what will happen. But it's nice to have something you daily drive and KNOW so when you make a change...it shows Good or Bad right away!

Welding is a matter of certification. If you are in a place with heavy construction or industry it used to be a simple matter of getting certified in the various weld positions and you would go to work laying bead. CNC operators? Maybe programmer, the setup guys even in So Cal at most small job shops aren't paid a whole lot, unless you are really at a niche shop with high workflow and cash flows. Operators and Setup guys may make $8-9 an hour! Programmers, if they can do the setup will command 2X that. Most of what you say you want to do is possible with Community College or Technical School classes. Fabtech in Riverside has classes in cage fabrication (basically a class that lets you build your racecar while you learn...) There are a lot of places like that in SoCal, and they have placement if you're showing promise. If you have a knack for that kind of stuff, you may find it works out well. If you're close, an AA in Business will get you a lot of places when combined with solid hands-on skills.

The one in my 76 Fairlady Z 2+2, bone stock EFI and 225,000 miles on it. Taken from a 1980 280ZX 2+2 that was purchased at police auction for $100 (abandoned and towed at the port of L.A.) Spins the Dynojet to 147rwhp. This was very close to what I got with the G-Tech. The car with my 255# frame in it scaled at 2695# at SanAntonio Dragway, and turned 26 1/4 mile passes that day in a range from 15.50 to 15.60 at around 89mph. I thought the scale said 2965 as time passed, but the horsepower to run that time, at that weight, and that trap speed is no where near possible... I have replicated these numbers in several other vehicles. This is the car that had triple Webers, a header, and Crush-Bent 2.5" exhaust on it when I got it (and dynoed at 88 RWHP). Pulled off all that stuff, put a 1976 CA Emissions Spec ECU, with a Federal non-EGR EFI Intake and stock cast iron (unported) exhaust manifold on and went to the dyno...then to the track. It was so consistent at the San Antonio Convention (with 186,500 miles on the clock then...) the guy with a nice shiny silver 280Z having a big throat and headers actually SWORE at me claiming it had a cam, it HAD to have a cam, since he ran consistently 16.47... a full second slower than me, no matter what he tried! So much for the 2+2 hater myths of being slow! He actually started SWEARING at me! That still amazes me to this day.

Yes I know the auctions... I prefer to attend in person and arrange my own agent...

Let me get this right: They rented your car for $300 for a couple of hours. Did you get to stay on / near the set? Meaning did you have access to the catering truck? Call me 'car pimp' for that kind of bucks, a couple hours work and free food! Just don't beat up my *******, or I'm going to get Milt! Even without the free food. But food would seal the deal as a no-brainer!

that guy at :34 is on borrowed time!